GTSBoy

Oh, in that case, the wash pull is an alternative trigger path for the low speed, so it only really means that the motor can run on low. Doesn't help decide what other bits are good/bad. Could still be switch, plug, wiring, relay.

The hi-lo select relay is probably fine. As is the motor winding if it ran at normal low speed.

Be aware that a worn set of rings will let more water-filled blowby gases into the sump. You will want to change your oil close to twice as often as would normally be expected for E85, unless you're happy for it to all go to shit down there.

Just to be clear - external scratches on a caliper are unlikely to be a problem. It does look like someone has ground off the Nissan casting and otherwise gone over them with an abrasive to smooth out a lot of flashing etc, then perhaps treated them a bit roughly on the car or kicked around a workshop floor. Unless the material thickness is excessively compromised where the scratches are unusually deep, you'd just file them a bit smoother and paint them. I didn't even bother touching the R34 calipers on my car in any way except to throw some black paint on them. Because....they are brakes. They are for doing things, not looking at.

It's not strictly necessary, because, whilst the wildly "variable nature of pump E85" is a thing, it doesn't really vary so much that it has to be a problem. It can often be as low as 70, from what I understand, and even somewhat higher than 85. But here's the thing. The knock resistance from ethanol content pretty much reaches a maximum somewhere around 45% ethanol content. Thereafter the extra ethanol doesn't really provide much more ability to put in timing, safety from knock, etc. What it does do though is affect the required stoichiometry. For lower E content, you get richer (for a fuel system/table that assumes E85). So you get safer. And slower. Above 85%, unless the tune is pretty close to the edge of being too lean, you should still be fine. So if you want to keep your tune nicely optimised against varying E content, then....you need a sensor. If it were me, I'd put a sensor in. The downside here is that you must do the full flex tune to get the benefit from it. You have to have a base map on one fuel and another on the opposite extreme of the E content to interpolate against. I wouldn't think that tuning on exactly E85 (or whatever happened to be coming out of the pump that day) would give the ECU anywhere to adjust to based on what the ethanol sensor is saying, unless there's that other fuel's tune in there also.

Are we dealing with GPT4 here?

I second the R34 310mm brakes option. Although, it's not as if you can get them for cheap these days.

It can be the wiper motor failed also. As you may see from the diagram, there is an input for low speed and one for high speed. They go to different windings in the motor. The high speed one could be good while there could be a problem with the low speed one. That problem could be anything from a broken wire to a burnt winding. The question here is, does it work on hi even when you switch it to low, or do you have to switch it all the way to hi to get it to chooch? All these things are testable by direct powering the motor (you give it an earth and power to the winding you want to run), probing with the multimeter in the places on the wiring diagram where you're supposed to have 12V (constant), 12V (when running), earth (constant, or when running, depending on whether the circuit is supply side switched or earth side switched. This one is supply side switched, so the is constant, and we know it works because the hi speed works.

Apparently on R33s it's inside the driver's side A pillar, or thereabouts. Just follow the wires.

What the hell kind of crack smoking joke is this? That is literally double the power possible with a stock ceramic shitter. When I'm talking about shards here, they can either be what you are on, or the pieces of turbine. Take your pick.

Well. That's um.....cutting out quite a lot of the.....um..... "All det spec motors", isn't it? Also, I wish to understand why it doesn't apply to VCT motors.

It's totally streetable. It's just that the streets are pretty short and have lots of concrete barriers, lights and a return road.

Yes. I do things properly.

Pls don't be confused by my reactions to the above two posts.

Do you care to elaborate on that statement?

You wouldn't need to do the subframe swap to lose weight. The HICAS subframe doesn't weigh any different to the non-HICAS one. If you fit an eliminator kit instead of a lock bar, then it ends up being almost exactly the same as a non-HICAS setup. In the modern day and age of eliminator kits being available, you would be mental to install a lock bar and have to live with the slop in the original tie rod ends, or pay money for new ones to get rid of it. Eliminator kits kick lock bar arse. I didn't remove the various HICAS solenoids and lines for lightweight reasons. The primary reason is because they get in the way of things I want to do (particularly in the engine bay). Losing some weight is merely a bonus. Losing the 2 stage PS pump is another bonus, and/or being able to use the R34 pump that comes on the Neo without cracking the sads over HICAS not working any more (as if that was likely to be a problem!!!).

How are you with a wiring diagram and a multimeter?

The knuckles are the same but the HICAS ones have tapers pressed into them for the rear tie-rods. The non-HICAS don't have the tapers in those holes and just receive a balljoint from the toe adjustment arm. On an R32, I took all my arms of my HICAS subframe and threw it in the bin. Then I bolted up a non-HICAS subframe, including its original toe arms, pressed out the tapers, and boosted off into the sunset without HICAS trying to kill me. But, the only reason I did this was so that the entire rear end was original Nissan parts. It was so long ago that there were no HICAS eliminator kits on the market, only lock bars. Lock bars are illegal, because it is not legal to modify a steering system (not without serious engineering, anyway). The stock look of the non-HICAS rear was my solution to putting it through Regency without an argument. Which is how it played out. No questions asked. These days, a black eliminator kit would probably pass muster if it was dirty like everything else down there.

Really? How about broken switch?

The same as on any engine. TDC compression on cylinder #1 is when the piston is at the top (easily found by timing mark on crank if correct, or by feeler rod through spark plug hole if suspicious of markings) and the #1 cam lobes pointing at the sky. TDC on exhaust, the cam lobes are pointing downish. The exhaust cam will be close to closing and the inlet cam will be close to opening. We don't talk in cam degrees. There is no "180 out". You are talking about 360° out, engine degrees. And as I said, if it was 360° out, you would still get compression. All the mechanical things are still working in concert. TDC is still TDC. If the inlet valve opens just before TDC, then the engine will still ingest air. If the exhaust cam is closing at that same point, then the air will still be trapped inside the cylinder and get compressed on the next upstroke. Etc. The question of whether the engine will run or not will depend on how the ignition is timed wrt to the engine. If it was a crank driven distributor then it would attempt to fire on the wrong stroke, while the valves are on overlap. Not going to run. If the ignition timing is driven from the cam (like it is on an RB) then the engine should actually run. It's just that all the marks on the timing chain won't line up when they're supposed to so you'll have to have it 360° out to get them to line up. But, regardless, your lack of compression is far more likely to be either all teh valves are bent/stuck open, or you have another severe cam timing error (other than 360° out), if it is even possible to get it that bad.

Typo is appropriate.

Wouldn't cause no compression. It would work exactly like it should, except it would be trying to spark at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Although that depends on what exactly you meant by "180° out". 180 crank degrees or 180 cam degrees? 180 crank would be weird, but timing marks wouldn't line up. would need to be 360 crank for the timing marks to line up.

R32 with Neo & big box transplant is a thing you know.....

I'm a member of the "R33s are ugly boats" sect. There are others who like them. I just can't look at an R33 without seeing the front end of a 90s Magna with the back end of a 90s Maxima crashed into it. I vastly prefer R32s, but even there, I hate the GTSt bonnet/grille situation. And therefore I wouldn't own one without GTR parts on it. Convenient, because that's what I have. I really like R34s, although I find the sedan much less convincing than the coupe to look at. There's just something a little wrong about the proportions of the sedan. That's also true of the R32. The R33, oddly enough has the least wrongness about its proportions as a sedan - but then it just looks like an Almera or some other FWD shitter (because of the droopy bootline). The R33 really was just in an unfortunate patch for Nissan design in general.

All I said was that 20 years ago R33 sedans were an ugly pov-spec shitbox (which is unarguably true) and that I was surprised that they are now cool. Pov spec because they were much cheaper than coupes because they weren't wanted. Everyone wanted a coupe. Just like the one I have owned for nearly a quarter of a century. Ugly, because....R33. Yeesh. Shitbox, because....dirty old 90s Nissan. They're all shitboxes. Just ask anyone here.