GTSBoy

That's why I always just give it to my trusted diff guy to put my Frankendiffs back together.

Factory pressure sensor is directly attached to the engine and takes 20 years to die.

And the EFR7163 is a hybrid flow turbine too, so, not quite apples and apples when comparing to other turbos A/Rs anyway.

What he sed ^^. There is no way that a 700HP RB25 is a "fun street" engine. Any more than 300rwkW is almost completely wasted on the road. Unless your definition of "fun" means simply destroying tyres.

There's a whole pdf linked in several threads on this very forum. http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf

I suspect that Nissan think they need them to even out the clamping force, to make sure that it is high enough in those corners to grab the gasket. It is quite possible that people like Duncan get their experience of successful clamping without the extra bolts because of upgraded head studs providing more total clamping force and maybe the corners stay above Nissan's desired/minimum threshold even with the uneven distribution of force resulting from leaving the bolts out. And maybe Nissan put them in because the is enough clamping force with the stock head studs without the extra bolts, but there's not enough safety margin. That's the difference between OEM and aftermarket/modifiers. OEMs have to comply with the hard won lessons on how much safety margin they have to have in all their specifications. Modifiers get half of their gains by using up all of the margin and don't care (or know) that they are now 1% away from failure instead of 30%.

Eeek.

Stradia Lowmax. I probably couldn't use them with a helmet still, but I reckon that a thinner cushion might be all that is required to gain the space required.

I'm not sure I follow. I'm 197cm tall and don't have to do anything special to see out of my R32. My head is only mm away from the headlining, sufficient to have a dirty mark there, and I can see under the windscreen rail just fine. GTR seats are even better than GTSt in that respect (and I'm in GTSt seats, for clarity). I've just dropped in some Brides on normal baseplate mounts (not the superlows) and put in a little extra effort to make sure that they went in as low as possible (done by omitting some spacers and shortening some fasteners to prevent hitting the bucket) and am now sitting slightly lower than stock seats. Am perfectly happy and wouldn't want to upset the leg position/angle to the pedals etc any more than that anyway.

I am considering reporting the above 2 posts as spam. First reason.....seems not to know anything about the projector housings that we're talking about. Second reason, link to masturbatory content suitable for Boostcruising or some similar ESL version of same. Upvotes?

Why would it be different?

They usually only fail to close because they're dirty. Seldom because the wax pellet misbehaves.

I can't see how that could be the case. All it has to do is rotate the camshaft, which the camshaft is already doing and already popping the valves open upon demand. The real counteracting force against the oil pressure is the return spring in the positioner itself, no? So, whilst it is difficult to blame the valve springs, your theory might, could, just possibly have something in it. I suggest fitting a pressure gauge to the supply line close to the actuator and see what's what. Maybe the pressure there is disappointingly low until 3.5k.

There's a dozen ways to do this.

Probably almost any Nissan from the same era.

Sorry, I should have read the OP more thoroughly. Sounds like you could be backfeeding the circuit from somewhere, which shouldn't be an easy thing to do if the wiring is original and unbastardised. But because it's a 25 year old car and you've just done a modification that includes messing with the wiring loom, it is actually best to describe it as bastardised and proceed accordingly. Proceeding accordingly would be to presume that your fault is unique to your equipment and diagnosis from afar/past experience will be unlikely to just give you the exact thing to look for. It always turns out to be something f**ked up that was completely unexpected. The method is still the same. Grab wiring diagram and multimeter, screw on the thinking cap, and start diagnosing where power is (and should be and shouldn't be) and where it isn't (and should be and shouldn't be), with the switch open, closed, globes in and out, at earth points, etc, etc.

Well, clearly, in Duncan's photo.....there is no PS reservoir in the stock location. There's a bloody huge turbo there instead!

It is not directly caused by the swap. You may well have broken something during the swap, but the swap itself is not the cause. The most likely cause is the brake pedal switch. You would have had to be stuffing around in the footwell to fit the clutch pedal, so....there's how you break something. The pedal switch will be stuck on, feeding all 4 lights. The reason one of them is not working will be because of a broken globe, or a faulty earth at that light, not because of some magical thing capable of creating a single fault that makes only 3 out of 4 come on. The brake light circuit is about the simplest circuit on the car. Break out the wiring diagram and a multimeter and start finding the fault.

The Sinco website explicitly says, on the non-ABS manifold version's page,

You're slipping. I had to fix that fix for you.

As if it's "much closer!!" It's like, 20% closer, if that. 8000km vs 10000km

We may well be at the point where even the shitty LED bulbs are actually better than a halogen bulb in the original projectors. I cannot, however, get past the need to have a crappy heatsink hanging out the back of the permanently unsealed rear of the projector in order to use a crappy LED bulb. What I'd like to look into next, is.... what is the OEM LED projector from some common car that will serve as well as the HID projector out of the old Honda Accord and be easily retroable?

You only need to make a hard line for the bit that is worst exposed to heat, if you prefer. Just to get the 200 series that bit further away. Then you get to keep the "easier" routing offered by hose for the rest of the run, without having to bend up the hard line with the mm precision needed to put it exactly where it has to go for the whole run. The other thing to consider with heat shielding for the existing hose, is..... double jeopardy. Add another layer of sleeve (larger diameter, natch) over the top. And another possibility that people tend to ignore is that offered by increasing airflow in that area. Grab a small bore (like, 40mm) flexible hose air supply from behind the bumper and aim the air flow to the problem spot. Just blowing the hot shit away a bit can make a huge difference. Can be hard to do elegantly, only provides benefit when moving, but adds life expectancy to the rig.

2x internet points to me! That's a bad looking crack. It could be responsible for your troubles, but it might not be severe enough. Look forward to your report back. This sort of stuff is great, because you have a problem that makes you start looking at the car, and you turn up all sorts of things that you really should fix, and you fix them all trying to solve the problem.

Sure, but that includes "get from the US"....whereas I could do it my way on a Saturday afternoon.