GTSBoy

Cost is not the point. 30 yr old worn out linkages and butterflies that don't seal..... vs brand new something else. I know what I would be doing. If there wasn't already an ITB setup available for a similar engine, you wouldn't even be considering using 30 yr old worn out shit. You'd be looking at other options straight up. My brother-in-law built up a set of ITBs for a n NA 7M from scratch (from bike TBs), because that was the only option. He then did the same for a 2JZ. I mean, shit, it's not even as if the RB26 setup is bolt on. You have to do so much f**king around to put them on that it is simply not worth the pain unless you like the pain. Not in any meaningful way. The age difference probably explained all those failures. RB25DE made no power from factory, so had no need to have good flowing ports. The Neo 25DEs in particular, used the concept of keeping the ports small to keep the velocity high to maximise in-cylinder mixing. Remember that the whole point of the Neo was to meet the ELV emissions requirements that the vanilla RBs had no hope of achieving. Not really. It's just that you can overcome poor head flow with more boost. That's not a clever way to do things, because inefficiency is still inefficiency. So OEM engineers tend not to do it that way! Meh - they're just not that exciting. Have a google around for how much power people are actually making out of worked NA RBs. They're OK, but they hardly set the world on fire. You'd probably make a lot more power with any of the more modern 2.4-2.5L 4 cylinders, as pedestrian and horrible as they are. As an example - my NA 2JZ example from above. ITBs, good extractors, cams, 20% capacity advantage over an RB25, and certainly no worse engine design (actually a substantially better engine than the RB)..... made about 140rwkW. Was nice to drive, but certainly wasn't fast. Even if you can turn it to 9.5k rpm and maintain torque production up at those revs (ie, lots of cam!) then you still only make maybe 20 kW more. I'm not trying to dissuade you from anything. Just pointing out that the NA RBs are not some super engine. They don't hold a magical key to massive power (TM) just because they are newer and twin cam. The RB bottom end is actually not that far removed from the L series bottom end on which it was based. The basic engine architecture goes back to the Mercedes in-line 4s and 6s of the 1960s that Nissan copied to come up with the L series. http://build-threads.com/admin/z31-300zx-project-z432/

There are literally dozens of aftermarket throttlebodies in DCOE carby format. The RB26 ITBs are so very very close to the DCOE bolt pattern that it is difficult to believe that Nissan came that close and didn't actually just use the DCOE pattern. Then, you can look at just about any EFI motorbike from Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda, etc that used single throttles, in whatever size floats your boat. 45mm? 48mm? Larger? They're all out there. Just build manifold and plenum and linkages to suit. As for compression and cams - the larger the cam duration, the more compression you can run. Just sayin'. And as for cost for bottom end.....8500 rpm is well within the limits of the stock bottom end. Especially NA. It won't cost much to make it good for >9000. Just need some light pistons and some moderately strong rods and bolts. On the subject of VCT.....all RB25s have it (except for the very first ones in the R32). The vanilla 25s in the R33 era cars were all VCT. There's almost no difference in the VCT between vanilla and Neo engines. The difference between Neos and vanilla 25s is that the Neos have solid lifters, a different included angle in the valves with a shallow combustion chamber. And in the NAs.....not particularly good flowing ports. I would not write off the power potential of an L series vs an RB25DE though, neo or not. 2.8L & 3L (and larger) L series builds, even running Mikunis, have made really large power. There is nothing wrong with the single cam engines. The twin cams are not inherently a massive leap in power potential.

Waste you money not. There are better ways to get ITBs than to strap on 30 year old GTR taxed stuff. So....stock then? But I urge 12:1 compression and E85, 300° cams and the best extractors money can buy (ie built, not bought, seeing as there probably isn't a decent off the shelf option anyway).

Yeah, worth it, if needed. Also not difficult. Just need a pan rail water/laser cut and then some fabrication. Sensible option anyway. Why make life harder than it needs to be? I think there can't have been too many AWD NA Stageas around. The RB25DE is a toothless piece of shit (no offence to your chosen engine for your conversion) when in a heavy station wagon. You wouldn't want to add the burden of AWD transfer case and front diff etc. Therefore they are likely all from 2WD Stageas or NA Skylines.

Yes.

Plus, if you wanted to do a kit, you'd be smarter to avoid relying on having to obtain RB26 ITBs. You'd want to use DCOE pattern or readily available motorbike single throttles or something actually available and not subject to GTR tax.

Spray paint stripper. Work to remove paint. Prime it properly. Then spray paint it properly. The money paid to a proper paint shop to do it is going to be worth it if your DIY tendencies trend towards using a brush to paint it!!!

Caramel wheel.

Imposssible to say fro those photos. I would trust the "could be saved" assessment from before, as it is difficult to completely f**k one.

Yes, that was the point of the plan. Spray on the coolers in the queue at perhaps at burnout and stop it before staging. Spray INSIDE the intake during the run (or indeed, during the burnout). No water on the track.

Perhaps you need to find a situation specific solution. A fine mist water spray onto the appropriate cooler cores can rob heat away pretty quick. You have it on a manual switch and only turn it on when you're idling in the queue and doing the burnout. Take it one step further and have a second trigger/switch/whatever that uses the same pump to lob a little water into the intake (pre-blower) to gain a little cooling inside the engine on the run. Nothing like as much as you'd use on a properly set up WMI, but enough to do a little something. Might as well make use of the investment in fitting the reservoir and pump.....

Yeah, nah. Maybe the hose with the flat jet nozzle on the multi-nozzle trigger thingo. But not a pressure washer. Pressure washers are a bit fierce and might tear the front (the pile) from the backing.

NP!

Pack it full of teflon tape.

Is it really between the bolt and the hole, or is it in the joint itself?

Some dielectric grease perhaps?

None of the ones he listed are R32, so there's room for them to be different lengths anyway. And, I was under the impression that GTS4 used GTSt 5 bolt shafts. Am I wrong? And, in the US, surely you would just spend the couple of grand required to get the billet ones and forget about all this old Datsun bullshit. They use really strong Porsche CVs and I would just do it if I was building something that needed more strength than you can get out of a 2nd hand 30 year old Silvia shaft.

Does this sound like.....kickdown?

They get put in a small thin vinyl bag with a single pres stud and dropped down into the bottom of the rear guard below the jack. That's all the science and niceness that Nissan put into it. They are only saved from rattling by the bag.

The ECU doesn't create the speed signal. It is created at the speedo head. That signal is available to all the CUs on the bus that want it (ECU, TCU, ABS, TCS, HICAS, ATESSA). On that diagram, I can only assume that the "High speed sensor" is the speed sensor/transmitter in the speedo head, and you can see that that wire reports to both the ECU and the HICAS CU on terminal 6 (I think it's 6 - on the RHS up near the top). The other wire "to ECU" on T5 must be for some signal from the HICAS to the ECU for some other reason. It might be something to do with PS load idle up, or god knows what else.

No. I have not. Because the R32 didn't ever have it. But I have very successfully threshold braked and maintained control in an event that would have activated ABS. So I think I wouldn't miss it if I had removed it from a Skyline. But, no, you cannot remove it from a street driven registered insured vehicle, so the question is moot. The other thing about ABS is, that without stability control, it is often useless. If you are in an extreme manoeuver where you need to break at ABS activation levels and make a severe direction change, the transfer of weight to the front wheels is very likely to cause you to just spin anyway, as the rear end goes all light and decides to beat you to the accident. Stability control will help recover from that imbalance. Not that I'm campaigning for either technology. I don't like either of them and happily drive a car with neither.

3x 044s will beat the shit out of the fuel and make it hot. Adds heat to it every time it passes through a pump. Adds heat to it every time it passes through the engine bay, comes back, gets dumped into the surge tank (confining the heat and putting it straight back into another pump), etc etc etc. So, yes, putting a fuel cooler in will help. Staging the pumps will still help. The problem is greatest when you are not using much power. The pumps are all still thrashing away, and a larger quantity of fuel is going around and around. When, instead, You are using a lot of power, the fuel isn't going around and around as much. More of it is on a one way trip to the exhaust pipe. So the issue of staging the pumps is not about what happens when you're on track using a lot of power. It is about when you're on track not using a lot of power. Even better than just staging the pumps would be to put a proper pump controller on with PWM control. In any case, a fuel cooler will help even if you do stage/modulate the pumps.

Spin all your sensors with a battery drill and watch the signal on the output wires with an oscilloscope. You'll see what they do. If you don't have a scope, you can use a multimeter set to a low AC voltage. It won't show you the frequency, but you should see a voltage, which should all be similar.

I can't see this being likely. As far as I know, all the Nissan inductive gearbox speed sensors output about the same thing - a -1 to +1 volt AC/sawtooth wave, with the magnitude varying a bit with speed, but the main information in it being the frequency. This goes to the dash. The ECU does not see this signal. The dash outputs a square wave PWM 0-5v speed signal. You can see all this in the workshop manuals.