GTSBoy

You likely have a bad earth somewhere. Or possibly the headlight switch or dip switch have dirty contacts. I had this happen when an exhaust pyro gauge was dying. It pulled the power in the console area low enough to drop the stereo out (and then as it died completely I couldn't start the car). I wouldn't suggest you have the same problem I did, just demonstrating that power issues have been seen to cause the same thing you're seeing. The headlights pull a lot of current. If that current can't get to earth (on the other side of the headlights) you might cause some weird voltage issue in the dash/console.

Yeah, it's true. But, when you look at it more objectively - 5 years ago it was worth ~$7k. If I had lost it then that's all I would have gotten. I'm no worse off now than I was then, so long as I don't want to replace it with another Skyline. And I'm pretty clear in my head that I don't want to buy anyone else's Skyline. Any good cars owned by any of you guys aren't likely to be for sale, and if they are you'll want US money for them. There's an opportunity cost/loss should it be written off compared to what I would get in pocket if insured for $30k. But again, that's only ~$20k, which is not really enough to make anyone cry into their beer. Would rather have it, but won't miss it.

Ah, well, there's the rub. They won't allow me to increase the value to >$10k unless I improve the garaging situation. Seeing as improving the garaging situation will cost >> than the possible loss on the car should it get destroyed, there would seem to be no point. It's bloody annoying actually, because the car is dailied it's about 1000x more likely to be written off by a meth-head in a delivery van than it is to be stolen by a meth-head in mismatched thongs. But, when I spoke to them about it, they would have been happy to put the value at some large number (nominally $25k for an R32, I guess) for only a small increment in premium.

I live in a bad postcode and my R32 is only 1/4 of that Shannons' quote, with Shannons. Which circle of hell are you garaging it in? Newcastle?

Or, you could straight to the thread https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/?do=getNewComment

Double f**k. Even that's wrong. Was supposed to be a response to another thread altogether! Ignore me.

f**k! Wrong thread. Supposed to go in your wheels thread.

Or, you could straight to the thread https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/?do=getNewComment

Hmm.... Newcastle spec non-sensor safe RTV.

This thread is about exhaust gaskets now.

The difference in cylinder distortion would be about 2% of any other possible f**kup that is usually made in putting an engine together. Is not to be worried about.

Just pretend you never made it.

More cleaning. Spray some Subaru upper engine cleaner into it, then some WD40. Do that a few times. The IACV can be annoyingly slow to come good, and a single cleaning attempt seldom gets it there. There is also a possibility that the speed signal is not working and that the neutral and clutch switches have not been wired up properly during the conversion. Any and all of these things can cause weird rev behaviour on decel transition to idle.

When I put RB20DET manual into R32 in place of RB20DET auto, I replaced the front half of the tailshaft.

No. Different length. Just get the correct front half of the tailshaft, or do surgery.

No. Just no. Your statements are ludicrous. You would be better off not wasting the time and effort to put the bloody thing on when you blow up your stock turbo and just buy a $1000 Corolla to drive around in for 3 weeks while you send your blown up stock turbo off to be highflowed at Hypergear. Then sell Corolla for $1000 after the dirty Datto is fixed and back on the road. With the advantage that you don't have to f**k around with any of this "fix up the dumb fuuck shit that the Chinebay knock off who flung dung brand turbo has wrong from the factory" bullshit. We do not need to be told how to f**k spiders around here. We have been doing it for 25 years. You cannot come on here and spout absolute bullshit that is demonstrably wrong without being called out.

Yes. Well. Bad news, but not totally surprising. My 2c is that unless there are engine building receipts from a known good builder, there is no such thing as "it's just been rebuilt - so it can't be that...."

No, they really need to go up. Just bodgy something in gynaecologist stylez.

And this differs from the video that was posted up a few weeks ago, how?

AMG E55 is still a very good idea. Most are low enough kays to have heaps of life left, and the parts costs are high but not ruinously. And they have already done all the depreciation that matters.

Why? Do you have an R34 you have an urge to skullf**k?

Why don't you get under your car and have a look? 3s of work will tell you whether your car has fork or eye lower mounts.

All that you wish to know is readily findable on here already. You might benefit from some searching and reading before asking people to rehash old posts.

I would just like to point something out. From an engineering perspective, it is absolutely unnecessary to torque a bolt up to anywhere near its recommended limiting torque. The correct torque will be whatever is required to produce the mechanical clamping force required in the joint. If that is only 150 Nm, then it's only 150 Nm. Normally an engineer would not then select a bolt that is massively more capable than that, because of cost. But in something like a crank pulley I'd be perfectly willing to believe that an engineer would perhaps happily go up a size or two, in order to obtain better numbers elsewhere, such as thread pitch, or area under the bolt head, or toughness/resistance to vibration or cyclical load. Any of a whole bunch or reasons. Now, I'm not saying that 150 Nm is correct in this instance. But it is definitely true that it is enough to hold the pulley on. It may not be enough enough, especially when coupled with other things that can happen when 3rd parties (rather than the guy on the assembly line with the ISO 9001 system certified torque wrench) are refitting the pulley. There's about 15 different things that can be wrong or go wrong when somebody does this. But it might have been just fine for what is ultimately just a 250HP 2.5L six in a mass produced car. The fact that the same manufacturer specs a much bigger number for other similar engines is a bit suspicious. But then the bolt is bigger and the intended usage model for the RB26 was also known to the factory to be "tuned and thrashed". So there might be a perfectly consistent logic in there. Nevertheless, there is no way that I would be arbitrarily torquing the stock RB25 crank pulley bolt up to 400Nm. Seems like waaaaay too big a step up from 150, and waaaaay high compared to 8.8 rating. It's not likely to be any better than 8.8, and might not even be that good, because it is quite possibly oversized for the duty. But, I wouldn't have too much problem with picking a number like 250Nm and doing it up to that. It's unlikely to go anywhere at that torque, and it's unlikely to stretch the bolt or wreck a thread, etc.

It's not hard. If you have a little scrap flat plate and your MIG, you can make a locker that goes where the starter is, as per BK et al above. Just needs to have a couple of bolt holes and a piece welded on that will jam the teeth of the flywheel. Might take 2 shots to get it right, but you'll see what's needed as soon as you look through the spot where the starter was. Of course.....access there kinda sucks too. But that's what they make inspection cameras for.