GTSBoy

Stock knock sensors are not really worth a knob of goatshit. They will miss real knock and detect non-knock. If there's a little more mechanical noise at one end of the engine than the other, ie valve train clatter or rod noise, then one will/may register knock that the other one doesn't. You CANNOT tune based on what the knock sensors are telling you. You can only tune using knock ears or similar.

Why don't you just, like, you know..... follow them?

Just about any non-who-flung-dung brand dial gauge will do. All you need is a steel plate you can bolt down to a coil bracket hole, a mag base and a couple of adjustable arms to mount the dial gauge, and maybe an extension or two to screw onto the probe. viz https://adelaidetools.com.au/hand-tools/engineering-tools/moore-wright-0-10mm-dial-indicator-mw400-05-14418.html https://adelaidetools.com.au/hand-tools/engineering-tools/moore-wright-magnetic-dial-indicator-stand-mw-475-01.html Might have to look elsewhere for extensions.

As I said, prep the rods. It's the very least you can do.

OEM temp gauges are buffered so that they should read pretty much halfway from about 60° to about 120°.

Every 6 months or so seems fair to bump. Price drop too. $250 shipped in Aus. Cheaper for local pickup.

Just prep the stockies if you're not wanting to spend money. If you're happy to spend some money, forged rods are "infinitely" stronger.

It won't be smaller. It makes no difference how big a flange it is wrapped around. The inlet to the AFM is still only 3". Pods suck anyway. I would recommend refitting the airbox with a few discrete mods.

MY engine conversion. MY experience. That which led me to KNOW what they want to see at Regency.

You can buy them from Kudos, JustJap, etc. Just search for "R32" and go through every item. You'll see them.

Been there, done that, as I said elsewhere/before. Engine conversion required full inspection. The blokes who do it are not silly, and they know the tricks, and they know the rules, and they will only be a little bit flexible on some of them. I've seen dipshits go back 3 times.

Well......if you wanted another pod filter the same-ish height, it doesn't need to have the same attachment method as the one you have now. The one you have now has that massive flange bolted to the AFM. Other typical pods have an adapter that bolts the same way, but only has like a 3" or 4" base. Just look at any googled photo of pod filters.

He's talking about the actual LED chips that are on the "bulbs". 3030, 3528, 5630 etc are the chip types, and some are brighter than others, because of physical size or current handling capacity or simply improved (newer) spec. All such LED dash bulbs are set up to give "even" illumination distribution. As even as they can be, anyway. But otherwise I agree with your comment. Bright dash lights suck nuts.

if it gets called in for an actual roadworthy inspection after the ID check (which I would expect!), then; Horn, demisters (front and rear), all lights everywhere - must be working. Seatbelts must not be frayed. ECU must be stock. Numberplates must not me bent, cut or otherwise modified (and this probably won't be an issue on an unreg car!) Seat foam must not be collapsing and dandruffing the floor.\ >100mm ground clearance everywhere. Must be above minimum eyebrow height at all 4 corners. Brake performance will be tested on their brake tester rig. Steering mods (ie HICAS lock bar) will be looked at. And failed, if present. Probably more.

Fixed that for you?

Yes.

No. I assume you're talking about the Defis, as I have even less idea what stereo you're talking about! As to the Defis, still no, because I don't have any. But probing for voltage will take 2.1 seconds. And yes, the wire that you're looking for will be hot when the dashlights are on, and not when the dashlights are off. This has nothing to do with the ignition position, or key in/out, because the lights can be turned on regardless of ignition. Just for clarity - the wire we're looking to probe for voltage when the lights are on is not hot because of the Defis, it is hot because it is the connected to the lighting circuit of the car. That's how the Defis sense the lights are on. They're just looking for voltage on that line too. They're not actually using the power on that wire to do anything except decide that the lights are on.

Just disconnect the stereo's wire that connects to the dashlighting power. All it does is sense that the lights are powered and dim the stereo accordingly. You should be able to find the equivalent wire on the Defis by just probing them with the lights on and off. Whichever one goes hot with the lights on is the culprit.

Bright dash lights are horrible. Are you sure you want to go down this path?

Disconnect the TPS from the loom and check the resistance from that centre wire to either side with multimeter as you open and close the throttle. If it does not change resistance then it is probably faulty. If it changes resistance it is probably working, and would point to a wiring fault (ie, signal wire & power wire shorted together somewhere in the loom). Repeat test with spare TPS to reassure yourself.

Can only imagine that the BCM runs the 21W globes that would normally be 5W in any other car at a reduced voltage, and perhaps this system has failed and is putting more (ie, 12) volts onto them and they get hotter than intended and do the melty dance.

Well, that's a foregone conclusion. Anything Euro hasn't been able to survive the warranty period for the last 15 years or so.

I don't think the fact that it is a Yaris is a problem in itself. Well, except that the driving position of all cars in that segment is more "small bus" than "performance car". Too short, tall and upright for my preferences. But as a goofy looking (as are all hatchy/SUV Toyotas at the moment) medium powered rally rocket..... props to them for doing it. Keep in mind, the Celica GT4 was based on the most appropriate chassis in the Toyota fleet at the time. Most appropriate for the purpose of building a rally car homo special, anyway. The other cars in their fleet? MA70 Supra? Cressida? Corolla? None of those were a good choice for a 4WD conversion, for various reasons. Now? Yaris looks like Corolla looks like H-RV or whatever the f**k they call that shit looking shopping trolley. And on all levels, both the design of the platforms and the exterior looks. All Toyota had to do was decide what power level they wanted to work to and choose the appropriate weight chassis to start with. The product would have looked the same and performed the same, might have just needed a 2.0L engine.

Too much romance, not enough common sense.

I have no idea how much it should cost. $1k does not sound out of the realms of reasonable. I just spent $750 getting the front bumper repainted. I have seen how much of a pain in the arse it is to straighten rails. I had to pull a few dents out of mine so it would go through Regency after the engine conversions. We made special tooling to go onto a slide hammer to reach up into the rails through the little drain holes and beat/pull the dents out from the inside. Also spot welded on hooks to use the slide hammer to pull where we couldn't make access to the inside. Then spend a lot of time tidying up and making it look "straight, but not brand new". The Regency guys will not fall for brand new paint over bog. They know a shitty job when they see one. I would not be surprised if it cost at least $1k, possibly double that, to pay a shop to unf**k a completely f**ked car.