GTSBoy

I don't know whether the N1 pump cops a fair assessment or not. It is certainly only a small improvement over the vanilla pump. No-one should be claiming that it is a super strong or super capacity pump. I have no evidence to support this, but the general scuttlebutt was that the N1 pumps that were actually put into engines at Nissan, ie, into N1 26s and Neo 25s, were good. Not prone to failure, anyway, but that there might have been a batch towards the end of the 2000s that were not as good in some way. There were a number of people reporting N1 pump failures back then. One would assume that they had bought the pump, had it fail and therefore felt it worth telling everybody. I don't know if anyone would have complained too much if the original N1 pump out of a 10+ year old 25 or 26 had failed. Certainly, at that time, people building any 25 or 26 used to plan to put an N1 pump in if they weren't running on drug money. Now, it may actually be the case that there was no dud batch of pumps at that time and all the failures were just the typical failures of people not setting them up right, suffering oil starvation or otherwise limiter bashing the engine/pump to death, as per your typical RB owner yob behaviour of the period. I certainly have no overestimation of the IQ of the majority of that crowd.

Nah. Any good matched set of EV14 based injectors, or the equivalents from non-Bosch OEMs, are still the go.

Yeah. Have you heard of the Subaru FA engine? Half the Euros are just as bad. They burn more oil than the Gulf War did.

You should always make sure that the oil pump and the crank are as concentric as possible, even with flat drive pumps.

Or....just about every modern engine with really thin, low tension rings and 0W oil. But for an RB, agreed.

There's a big difference between spinning a crank up to high rpm bare (without actual engine loads, ie combustion) and using it at the same rpm making a lot of power. There's a certain sized grain of salt required when looking at a balancing report that says the crank was spun to X rpm. Sure, it was fine under those conditions, but add the reciprocating loads up and down the conrods onto the journals and it is suddenly not the same as spinning it from one end.

Actually, This ^. Just because you pull it apart doesn't mean you automatically do anything. The only thing you have to do is carefully inspect and measure everything. If the bores are round and especially if there is no nasty lip at the top and especially especially if the hone marks are still visible, then doing anything to the bores is unjustified. You always assess what you have before deciding what you're going to do to it.

Torque range because it clearly doesn't matter so much where it ends up. I don't understand "flange from the gearbox". Do you mean the input flange on the diff at the back end of the tailshaft? Most people just do bolts like that up as tight as they can manage with a regular ring spanner and say "click". I always just re-use subframe fasteners. Shit never comes off.

I'm talking new Corvette. Not the old shitboxen. $60k US on one of those or $60k US on some old drift hack from Japan? Easy choice. And that's completely ignoring the other 60 years of awesome cars available in the US.

I'd suggest Sinergy Motorsport should be able to hook you up.

One can only assume that you've assembled the throwout wrong.

IACV probably dirty or faulty.

Soak the splines with penetrene today, tomorrow and the next day. Don't try again until it's had a nice long bath in it. Do as Duncan says ref the nut and LARGE hammer. You want mass, not speed. ie, air hammer is bad. Use a drift to also protect the nut. Clean the threads on the shaft with a small file, not sandpaper. If you have lost threads out of the nut, replace the nut. In which case, do not fear damaging the nut with the hammer. Use plenty of anti-sieze on the splines when you put it back together. Running them dry is 90% of the cause of the situation this car is in.

Meh. They live in a country where they can easily buy a Corvette. There's only so much sympathy I can spare for people who want a dirty old Datsun instead.

Are you talking the spline in the hub end of the shaft?

VK56DE or GTFO.

120 psi increased from 75 psi should see about 25% more flow through the same restriction (ie, the same engine). So, if the 64.8 l/min flow rate is with 2 springs, then one spring should flow about 52. If the 64.8 l/min flow rate is with 1 spring then 2 springs will give f**king lots.

I ordered some stuff from JustJap 5 weeks ago on a "promise" that it would be delayed 2-3 weeks. Still not here. Still not bothered.

I don't think so.

Nothing that you can see with a multimeter. That's a serial link. You're talking digital data at many kbaud.

Have you heard what's happening with global shipping lately?

No.

Just wait until you are off your Ps.

Not to shit on the OP, but it's a shame to see time, money and resources spent on a 33. <runs for cover>

Yuh, but that's for stock ECU, no? PFC w/ boost control kit is different, ja?