GTSBoy

Just do it. All their stuff is good. Be aware that most GK-Tech arms have spherical joints, which depending on where you are might be anything from legal to impossible-to-make-legal, typically requiring at least an engineering cert to get approval. If you have an accident and need to claim insurance and it can be proved that a non-roadworthy modification contributed to the incident, then your insurers are perfectly within their rights to deny the claim. That means not just your damage, but the Porsche Taycan that also got written off. So balance your risk accordingly.

Yes. That would be the same 5 speed as the S13, basically. The 6 speed should bolt up to an S13's SR, but I won't make any promises on it fitting gearbox mounts, shifter holes, etc, because I don't know for sure. But it should be able to be made to work.

33 and 34 are essentially the same thing under their petticoats.

The process is very simply described in the Nistune documentation.

I have personally seen my car idling at 3° when the IACV was dirty and non-responsive. As reported by the ECU in Nistune. I connect to my ECU with Nistune (because it is Nistuned) and you can set the target idle rpm directly, which is what you can do with a proper Consult device. I would not expect that you can set the idle speed with your typical Consult reading software on a PC. Might be able to with some, but that requires a ton more confidence on the part of the person releasing the software! The IACV is essentially a stepper motor and how many "steps" the ECU is putting out is the requested opening. I think it is open loop, so if the IACV won't actually open (because dirty/broken) then I think the steps will just keep increasing until they hit the max. A realistic number for the output number of steps is something in the order of 50. Setting the idle speed is a juggling act between making a physical adjustment on the screw on the IACV so that the ECU can run the stepper motor in the middle of its useful control range so that it can maintain the correct speed across the full range of load and temperature variations you can expect.

Are we actually talking about the S15 6 speed?

What you describe really shouldn't be possible. You can't pull the CAS and put it back at any other angle than that which it came off of, because there's only one install orientation. So no go there. For your timing behaviour to be so weird, one would have to hypothesise that your exhaust cam is one tooth off, or something similar. A satisfactory idle speed for a Neo is <650 rpm. And I have seen ECUs that can't get the idle under control by IACV pull the timing back to nearly 0° timing. So there is really about -ve 15-20° of delta timing available for idle control and then possibly more on the other side too.

It's on the front end of the tailshaft.

VCT oil drain differs between them. You will need to do something about that. But the blocks are otherwise able to swallow pistons from either with do problems. Neo rods are RB26 rods and therefore better than vanilla 25 rods.

I'd suggest not. Or if it is, only a little. The upward spiral was well under way before end of last year, has been going on for a few years.

I daily my car. It has 240k (legit) on it. I get told all the time that I should put it in the shed. My view is that it's only an R32, and while I love it and keep it as close to perfect as I can, it is only an old R32 and I would rather drive it (as a $20k or maybe even in the future a $30k car) every day than shed it, never drive it, and drive something else as a daily. It's a car - I want to own it because I want to drive it, even if that is just 50km a day to and from work. I reckon to some people who see me driving to work every morning and who "get it", I'm "that guy" in the R32. Not the anonymous twat in the Outlander/RAV4/Commonwhore/etc. I see a guy driving a neat yellow HG station wagon to work as a daily. I love to see that thing rolling instead of "appreciating" in a shed. Ditto for the various other guys doing the same thing. When I see a HG Monaro or an LJ Torrie out on a sunny Sunday, I just think "meh, garage queen". A couple of weeks ago I pulled up in traffic, 3 cars abreast. A white R34 coupe in the left lane, a white 33 coupe in the middle and my white 32 in the right lane. That's a once in a decade thing right there. A few days later I was driving a Swift to work and at all times there were at least 2 other Swifts within sight. Pull up at the lights with any group of 40 other cars and at least 3 of them will be Swifts. /CSH

Yes. Not necessarily here in Oz though. But the effect of the US market becoming a thing has driven local pricing to act as if there is truly a global market for these cars, which is only true to a certain extent. The shipping costs to get a bunky old R32 or 33 from here to the US can hardly be justified for the real or perceived values of the cars (either here, or there). For an R32 GTR, where, you're now talking well over $50k again, maybe more so. For an R34 GTR, the global market has to exist. Now, purely based on the sheer number of really dumb questions asked on here in the last couple of years, evidence suggests that there are many many new and quite young owners of Skylines around. So people must have been selling them to all the young, dumb and full of cum brigade. And as a further consideration, Supras that used to be $30k cars are now changing hands for upwards of $60k (real, I've seen it). And ditto for GTRs and FDs, so there is a degree of drag along for other cars from the era. People can't afford one of those halo models, but they can afford to buy one of the lesser cars, and that tiny increase in demand gets leveraged into quite startling increases in asking prices. My car started at ~$20k 20 years ago. Proceeded to depreciate to about $7 a number of years back and has been steadily rising and is now very likely worth at least the original value, if not more. I was offered >$15k for it a few years ago, and that was before the recent apparent price spiral.

You'll note that they don't show any (asking, not selling) pricing for, say, R32 GTSt 2drs in 2 out of those 3 reviews. That's likely because there are so few moving.

Well, yeah. There are not really any significant numbers coming in any more. Most of the Skylines that were going to be crashed into trees by flatbrims have been. The surviving cars are a smallish fraction of the total number that came in. That number has been about the same for the last 10 years, most likely. The number of cars for sale is usually a certain fraction of the total count, so that should remain the same too.

You need, at least; Knuckles/uprights, lower control arms, upper control arms, traction rods, dampers, springs, hubs, brakes, subframe to chassis bushes, diff bushes, handbrake cables, hydraulic brake lines, upper and lower balljoints, wheel bearings, any bushes that don't come with whatever arms you buy. You quite possibly need all the fasterners for subframe to chassis, diff to subframe, arms to subframe, brakes to uprights. You can buy aftermarket arms, brakes, bushes etc, but you will need original parts for a lot of the above list. You probably should just buy a complete subframe, with suspension arms etc, to make sure you can get your hands on all the things that you don't have that you probably can't easily get individually.

So you don't even have hubs? Well, the list is easy. You need everything that you can't see. Earth straps are exactly what they sound like. Braided wire strap with eyelet crimped on each end. Used for linking things like subframes to the chassis for electrical continuity purposes.

What do you want to but for it? Paint? Bushes? Arms? Brakes? Diff? Driveshafts? Earth straps?

Yeah, "amplifier" is a bad word used by (even) Nissan to describe something that is not actually amplification in many of these control boxes.

No engine problem can be related to the diff. It's either a diff problem or an engine problem but not one that involves both. Unless it has got the shitty A-LSD in it, in which case you're best off burning the car and claiming the insurance.

You're fishing, aren't you?

No, you don't need the sleeve for what you want to do. You only need the sleeve if you drill out the hole, and want to "undo" that mod later. And, I very clearly described what to make the sleeve out of in my previous post.

Or, option C. Get or make some replacements for the inserts with the threads you need. That's what I did when I put R34 calipers on R32. But if you want the quick, easy and perfectly fine option, just bang a drill through the mount hole. if you even need to go back, you can just sleeve it with a short piece of 14mm OD 1mm wall tube.

Nissan oil pressure senders are to be trusted as much as the Iranians trust the Israelis.

Whilst this is all true, it will conflict with MCA's approach, should you go down the path of getting coilovers from them. They are very much more in the "control roll with spring rate" camp rather than "control roll with bars" camp. I can see the benefits of both approaches. Loss of independence side-to-side from using big bars is a negative. Hasn't stopped me from putting big adjustables on though. But then, mt spring rates are only in the 5kg/mm range.

You going to be using stock ECU, or aftermarket?