GTSBoy

I dunno what you're talking about. My HEL lines go from the clip on the inner guard, to the clip on the back of the upright, to the clip just before the caliper, and have little rubber bits on the line for the middle ones.

When I say "amp module", I mean an integrated circuit on a circuit board either in your head unit or in a separate amplifier. I have no idea what sort of car, or what sort of stereo is in it. Doesn't really matter, there is little that you could do to test such a thing. At this point, you should do what you should have done from the start. Take the door apart and have a look. Consider swapping the speakers from left to right to see whether the problem stays put or follows the speaker. It might even just go away if it was a loose connection. Failing that, get someone who know about wires to have a physical look at it, in person.

Could be. Could be that you accidentally adjusted the balance to the left. Could be that the amplifier module has shat itself. Could be a rat died in the door, and its carcass is pressed up against the back of the speaker cone stopping it from moving as much.

There is a pair of wires that runs from the back of the stereo/amplifier to the speaker. One of these will be disconnected in some way. Broken wire, broken solder joint, broken connector. Or, the speaker could have shat itself. The voice coil inside is made up of really fine wire and will die under too much power input, or from age, or from getting wet, etc etc.

Fuse? It's wire all the way down buddy. Is this a serious question, or are you trolling?

See my previous post!

Unless you want a significant project, the only sensible swap is the same for same. As RBs are not exactly thick on the ground these days, you may get a better, faster, more trustworthy result from actually rebuilding it. Oh, and don't expect the scan tool to tell you that you have a dud plug or coil. The ECU can't really tell. It can tell you about faulty sensors, and that's pretty much it.

Autos are full of black magic and spite. Yours will either worn out friction surfaces, or blocked oil galleries, or stuck pistons/broken springs or a dud solenoid. Or possibly something different. Automatic trans specialists make money from knowing that no-one can really fix their own auto.

Front section of NA tailshaft is not same as turbo.

He has a manual, further reducing the point of doing anything.

I ran 24mm bar on soft setting at rear for years before changing to 22mm on hard. I run 24mm bar on hard setting at front and have done so for many years. No breakage. But this is on an R32, not an ocean liner. You can put a bit of rubber sheet and a hose clamp around the bar on each side of one or both D brackets to keep it laterally aligned.

Unlikely Absolutely not.

You can see and feel if a crimp has or hasn't been done. And if you pull really hard on the ends, they might come off if they're not crimped. I wouldn't be too worried about such lines not getting crimped. That would have to be an exceedingly rare failure.

Spend on suspension brakes & tyres. Don't spend on power until you're allowed to. In the meantime, you may well change your mind, or just about anything else can happen.

Blew intercooler hose off. Most of the way off, still nearly closed.

The do have a plastic sleeve. Your choice of colour, etc etc. And they mount properly - they have the blocks needed. I'm not recommending against GK-Tech - I use lots of their stuff. But the HEL lines are noticeably cheaper - and up until Dose sent me a picture of one that was very questionable, I had never had cause to doubt their quality. They were the first to offer ADR approved braided lines, after all. But at least it is possible to tell if they (or any other brand) have been crimped, now that you know to look!

If this whole thing is a troll, there has been a lot of effort put in.

Is the hose sucking air in when the car is running? If so....problem. As to the idle valve. Buy some Subaru upper engine cleaner or similar and spray it in through there.

Ahh. OK.

Not only is the pedal feel worth whatever you have to pay, but you also get to get rid of 20+ year old rubber lines that are probably unsafe anyway. But, here's the hot tip.....https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-BRAKE-Lines-Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTS-T-GTST/271573448661?hash=item3f3b09f7d5:g:1AEAAOSw-ldZaG1u The original, and still the best.

No, I meant buying anything that costs more than $20 to plug into the diagnostic port. Take it to a workshop that has a decent diagnostic code reader and fling them $10 to borrow it for 2 minutes in their driveway.

Ah. 16 year olds and their endless supplies of enthusiasm, money and unwillingness to listen to those who have learnt from making those same mistakes. My tip is put the Skyline in the shed and don't drive it and instead drive a $200 FWD shitbox for 2 years. Who's going to be paying for the insurance on this R34 of yours while you drive in illegally modified on your L's and P's?

Good news. Neo turbo is not <204kW. It is >=204kW (it's actually 206). And yes, you can put NA bolt ons on the outside of a turbo motor, and yes it will suck.

He did mean exactly that. That is what we linked you to.

It won't even throw a CEL on any Skyline, even if it is 100% venting. But it sure as hell f**ks with the fuel-air ratio when it vents. Those hybrid BOVs that vent and recirculate are the most wanky of all. They are only to make the noise, whilst trying to keep the ECU and fuelling happy enough to cut out all the horseshit that a venting BOV causes.