GTSBoy

When you finish the oil control thread you will come to the realisation that the rear oil drain is no such thing and there are better ways to do it. This involves Running a decent sized hose from the top of the sump (fresh hole + fitting) to the cam covers. The main thing about doing ANYTHING about oil drains is that it is not so much places for the oil to go down that you are creating, as much as places for the crankcase gases to come up. When the gases are coming up and the oil is trying to go down, through the same smallish holes (in the block) then the oil loses and gets blown up. If you increase the area available for the gases, the velocities decrease and the oil has a chance to go down where it is supposed to. So it is actually easier and better to put in hoses to take care of the gas than it is to try to squeeze oil back in through a disused turbo oil drain.

Do you want us to tell you where to put your fingers?

Um, the comp version of the Nismo is <$50 more and >100kW more. I know which one I would buy if I was looking at 400rwkW. This is just me harping on a subject that I have little direct experience with though. So listen to the others ref the Extreme. I have an Extreme clutch behind my Neo, but it is a baby clutch, so not relevant. Except inasmuch as it did have a mechanical problem years after I bought it and Extreme covered something like half the replacement cost, even though it was well used. They are good people.

I just realised that the "No." I typed above looks like I am saying "No", when what was intended was "Number".

Carefully.

No. 14075N. I can see that happening.

It's an uncontrolled vacuum leak while cruising (which is when the ECU will open the solenoid). You should fix it. Just superglue it back on then put some epoxy around it for strength.

Isn't the standard answer to this question Nismo Supercoppermix?

That's the purge control solenoid. If you followed one or the other of those lines, you would end up at the charcoal canister. The other line should go to the plenum. You can see that someone has already superglued that broken connection back together in the past.

Had a look see. The middle hose actually goes down to a nipple that comes off the heater hose offtake. At the very back lower corner of the inlet manifold there is a heater hose sized nipple sticking out sideways, pointing more or less at the bottom of the brake booster. There is another smaller nipple off the back of that, facing towards the firewall. That's where the middle hose goes.

No, because you can't see down there. It's a tangled mess of hoses. You've got the heater hoses both there, plus a couple of others. I can take a look and see if I can work out exactly which line it hooks up to. I think it is the steel tube that comes around the back of the engine from the turbo. There are drawings in the manual that show these pipe and hoses.

There's no cons on the S14 except that it's not a Skyline. I wouldn't trust those kms on the S14 either. Car is 25 years old. Where has it been all that time? The only problem with S14s is that the diff will be viscous LSD at best, and the driveshafts have tripod style CVs (not quite as good as proper CVs). But these things can be easily changed.

Operative adjective quote for clarity. Twins make no sense. Adding twins onto a single turbo engine is a backward step. Literally any other solution would have been more sensible. I wore out an RB20 manual with.....an RB20. They are a light box and do not enjoy lots of torque. Expect a short life expectancy with an RB25 with any sort of extra boost.

Seriously, it doesn't have to be expensive to get the oil control stuff handled. But you do need to get the head off and you do need to cut a hole in the sump. So you do need to put in work. Fixing the oil pump drive issue &/or upgrading the pump is not cheap, but that's not oil control. That's oil supply. As I said, read the oil thread. We bashed through all the myths and bullshit and came up with a good recipe to follow. But there is a lot of stuff in there, so there is little option but to wade through the whole lot and let the consensus wash over you towards the end.

The S14, every day. Things that are wrong with the R32: WTF? Why would anyone fit GTR twins onto a NEO? FFS! WTF? RB20 gearbox? Will die. Will die soon. Will need RB25DET gearbag instantly. 144000km, likely to be 280000km wound back. Anyone who believes the 144000 should ask me about this lovely piece of Sydney Harbour property I have to sell. Things that are wrong with the S14: Not much. RB26 not the best choice, but at least you can f**k off the twins, fit a big single and peel the tyres off the rims. S14 a little less nice place to be (inside) than an R32, but only just. Even though the S14 has Mac strut front suspension, there are enough problems with the R32 upper arms that the S14 will be easier to make handle properly. It's also a little lighter and a proven hoon mobile. Just do it.

Same shit.

I think on the 3 port double connection they rely on cross talk between the two downstream ports of the solenoid to bleed excess pressure across from the NC outlet to the NO outlet (or vice, versa, which the hell way around it is).

It might have been blocked off because it was giving trouble and previous owner too stupid to fix it properly. There's a wax pellet cold fast idle valve in there that is heated by the coolant. It will get hot anyway, after the inlet manifold gets hot, it's just slower to heat up. The one on the right bends straight down from where it is plugged, goes down a few inches onto an upward facing nipple on the water gallery that runs along the top of the inlet manifold. The middle one goes down and back, to I think the line that services the turbo. The one closest to the IACV connects to the back port on the TB passthrough. That's the way mine are hooked up, and they have not been changed.

You don't need to know anything about the diameter of the steering rack. Just buy bushes to suit your car. Presto. Done.

It works out like this. External gate can have a weak spring, or it can have a stiff spring. When it has a stiff spring, it will want to close quite well, so it doesn't need any help. So you leave the 3rd port of the solenoid vented to atmosphere and you plumb the 2nd port on the solenoid to the side of the wastegate actuator that will make it open. When you have a weak spring on the wastegate, you will probably need to help it close, which is what the connection diagram you posted does. The boost signal that would go to vent instead gets applied to the closing side of the actuator. There is no venting, there is merely PWM sharing of the boost signal between the opening side and the closing side, giving actual servo control of the valve position.

Degrease everything. Make sure it is clean everywhere that has oil on it now. Run it for a bit, see where it gets wet. Squealing belts/pulleys can be fixed by sandpapering the sheave faces. Don't do it while it's running! But the squealing may be because the pump has a problem. See how hard it is to turn, whether there's any wrong slop in it, etc.

As BK says, there are better cams available. Read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread. I am serious. Who knows? Depends on what your head and block look like, yeah? You don't really need one, but seeing as you're intent on using an aftermarket rail, you might as well. But you don't really need the rail either. New timing belt, water pump are a good idea. Big 100cell cat. Everything else seems fine.

Shitty modern FWD crap. Take the TB off and do it manually.

Or just call up any one of the dozens of english language import/export/part sourcing crowds there in Japan and get their help.

NONONONONONONONONONONO! Just do what I said in the other thread. Go to ANY mechanic. Any mechanic at all. They all have code readers. Plug theirs in and see what it says.