GTSBoy

Sounds like someone has found my hymn sheet.

The peril of assuming that things are configured correctly while trying to diagnose weird shit over the 'net.

I think that's true for a lot of new performance cars. Just have to watch them being lapped at the 'ring to see how many start squealing about engine or trans temp by the time they get to the climb out of Breidscheid.

And I don't want to crap on their enthusiasm, but goddamn that is dumb. The money they're paying, for crapy old Dattos, then having to scrounge to find parts (and, being Seppos, they simply MUST upgrade and/or factory restore every single part of the car within 2 weeks of buying the car!) is just silly. "Oh, it's my dream car!..." </wistful, dewy look in the eye>

You've got a shitty fuel system.

They make a good PS cooler. That's what I did with the one that came with my (originally auto) Neo engine. Pissed off the simple pipe loop.

Yeah, nah. Anyone not putting the absolutely largest battery that will physically fit (ie, NS70 X) is not thinking straight. the NS70 X is close on double the capacity of the "stock" unit.

If this was an industrial application (and more so, an equipment/health safety thing) then I'd be mooting a 2 out of 3 voting system. You have 3x sensors, expect and want all 3 of them to agree, but in the event of disagreement of one of them, you use the agreed value of the other 2. And raise a fault. This then places the common failure mode on whatever linkage you have connecting the 3 sensors to the thing that moves, but some common sense can be applied to make that similarly redundant, space being available, of course.

Dunno. Seeing as you can get something essentially the same, brand new, for the same moneys? https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/motorkool-external-trans-oil-cooler/SPO442465.html#q=oil%2Bcooler&lang=en_AU&start=49

Your other option is to buy a spray can of hi-fill and prime it with some pinholes. See if the primer makes them disappear. If it does, then you can leave it with pinholes of that size and they will go away when the painter takes over.

Depends on what you mean by OK. First up, was this done cold or hot? Are they reasonably consistent? Yes, they are reasonably consistent. Could be better. But unless it has had a build at some point, it is a ~30 year old engine and you'd expect some variation. Some of the difference could also be in user technique Is it good compression? Well....not numerically, no. New they were >160 psi. The one at 140 would be fine, in that context. If they were all ~140, you'd be reasonably happy. But the one that is @120 is twice as far down from the original numbers as the one @ 140. But.. (again)... technique can play a part in the absolute magnitude of these numbers, and the quality/state of repair/accuracy of the pressure gauge is not known. In the context of the above, the compression tester that was used last on my car is regularly compared to a known good pressure gauge. Not calibrated, exactly, but compared to a reference instrument that is not used for any other purpose, so cops no abuse. So we can trust the measurements off that tester. But another tester in the same workshop wasn't being compared against the standard and was reading a good 30ish psi lower. When you're reading 100 psu but the engine is really doing 130, you can make bad decisions.

More likely from tiny bubbles in the filler/putty. Maybe be less aggressive when mixing it. Perhaps invest in a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out?** **I don't know if this is a thing for body filler. I see hardcore epoxy makers degassing their mixed resin on the regular.

IIRC, the speedo on these is fed from the sensor in/on the snout of the diff.

I must say - this is how I picture all R31s!

This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.

Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.

Nothing going on there. Stock as.

Yeah. I think Moog's GTR was set up with a stock looking layout on the UC10. It looks good. And that you can connect many direct connect signals to it, use it as an input extender for the ECU, etc. Which means for me, it is almost desirable, because I could mostly/sorta use it against a Nistune ECU. But it's a lot of money to drop for an almost/sorta thing. KnowwhatImean?

Yeah, The UC10 is the first of these to make it all the way to "acceptable" to look at.

We're talking about discrete installations here!

Nah, Haltechs are generally able to operate in the engine bay.

Navara? If it's a Bluebird, I might throw up in my mouth a little.

What heat build up are you asking about? Heat in the wiring providing the power to the Haltech, if remote mounted and power run via the fu(k-da-polees trick wire on the old ECU? Or heat from mounting an S3 inside an original case? I wouldn't run all the power for the Haltech through the trick wire. You just need the activation power. The main power would have to come from an appropriately fat feed. I wouldn't think you could fit the plastic body of a Haltech inside an original ECU case. They're pretty compact these days, but I don't think they're that compact.

GTiR? Noice.

Which would need the same trick wire routed from the aftermarket ECU to the OEM ECU's plug to make sure the aftermarket ECU won't power up when the OEM ECU is unplugged. Totally doable, just a bit of a pain in the butt.