GTSBoy

Hmm. Something to be said for having a Neo25 in a lighter R32. 1500-2000rpm is a fine place to be. Will pull away from 1000rpm in 5th with judicious use of the throttle.

Perhaps a specific line saying to be very wary of communications with e-mail addresses proffered as "being how you contact this user". Part of the "make sure you know who you're talking to" that you already have, but a bit more specific.

Good.

^^ This is not a solution. If the extra fuel is hiding in the LTFT then it will just come back after the ECU has had a panic and bashed all the extra fuel back into the STFT (and then rolls it back into the LTFT).

I concur with much of the above. A few points though. It could have a Nistune in it and still have the speed cut. You're not forced to disable it! 13L/100km on an NA 25 is terrible. As Greg says, that is a bad sign for your ability to modulate the throttle smoothly. If you apply a lot of transient throttle to a GTT, you could well use that much more juice. Just because you put a new O2 sensor in does not mean it is working. You need to check that it is working by connecting a Consult capable device and looking for the feedback swinging low-high, as you drive. Boost leaks will cost you fuel. No arguments. Suction leaks will NOT. Extra air only means extra fuel if the air passes through the air flow meter. So if you have a vacuum leak that is somehow not also a boost leak, then it is not causing more consumption. But otherwise see the point above. A highflow will NOT cause excessive fuel consumption unless you spend the whole time on boost. And then it might, because the 9 to 10+ psi section of the maps is excessively rich and retarded to prevent the rich from being retarded.

Well, that would depend on which part of the test you're talking about. He's basically doing a rough transistor test there, which will reveal some possible problems and maybe not others. You have to know how a transistor works in order to appreciate what and how to test them. The base is the switching input. That is is the signal from the ECU. It is obviously either there, or it is not, depending on whether or not the ECU wants to fire the coil. When it is ON, a current will flow from the base to the emitter, which is earth (and the emitter is a common earth for all 6 transistors in the package). The collectors are the 6x lines coming from the coils. These have 12V on them all the time. When the base is not fed by the ECU, there is no (ie very little) conductivity from the collector to the emitter, so no coil current flows. When the base is fed from the ECU, its little current flow to emitter allows the collector to also flow current to the emitter - ie, the resistance between C & E drops low, where it was previously high. From what I can see of that video, he didn't measure any C-E resistances. If he did, with the test gear he had, he'd only expect to see high resistances (maybe even open line) on C to E. He'd need to wire up a 12V circuit to feed the B-E and C-E properly and be switchable on the B-E side to be able to discriminate whether the transistors are switching properly or or not. The test he did really only shows whether the collector is properly isolated from the base, which only indicates one possible failure mode.

The trouble is, custom is custom. The pipes have to join onto other pipes, so you kinda need/want the car there to make sure that that happens. No-one has a 3D virtual model or a mockup jig of what you neen it to fit.

Have we sidetracked this thread far enough yet? Sorry Ian.

I've always wanted to do this to mine, Jap flag styleez. I just suspect that the boot is too short cf the bonnet for it to come out looking right. Ignore the graphics on the side and the bodgy edit to the front corner of the bonnet where I had to get rid of some other graphics. (And ignore the fact that it's a scale model!)

The purple was pretty hot too

This is Linamint. I think this would slay on an R32. And this is Strike Me Pink. Perhaps not an ideal colour for an R32.

Nice. My 2c on colour. The grey/white options are better than most others. The R32's shape (flared guards etc) look far better in light colours than in dark colours. Dark makes all the width go away, unless the car is hectically low, and hopefully no-one wants that any more. I think this rules out BRG, as much as I like that colour for almost any project. A compromise on BRG might be a much paler version of the green - perhaps with a generous metal flake in the clear. Something really surprising that would probably make the curves and shapes pop nicely. Do not do the yellow. That would only look good as a track car with lots of other graphics over the top. I would suggest a solid white rather than a pearl white. I really like the white that my car is painted, which is not the original Nissan white, it was repainted in Japan. The white is just really really white. Not cold, not warm. Although, now that many white cars have that pearl/metal in them to make them pop, those whites tend to look really cold, and makes my car's white seem warm by comparison. Anyway, solid is good, and it is much easier to repair and match if needed. One of our Swifts had the tailgate and rear bumper redone recently and the shop.....simply failed to get the pearled white white to match. Apparently the sun was blowing in the wrong direction or the birds were facing the wrong way on the power line outside while they were gunning it on. Greys.... I'm a bit meh on those. Especially with all the modern solid greys that are around now that look like they dipped the shell in the E-coat tank and then forgot to put the top coat on. Just yucky. Even if the original grey was to my taste, I'd be put off by that association! Reds can be hot on R32s. The red that was on the various racing cars in the 90s in Australia and Japan works (like the Winfield and GIO sponsored cars). If it wasn't a case that is on every 2nd car on the road, I'd consider Mazda Soul Red, as it is a really amazing colour for cars with curves also. Just sad that it is so oversubscribed. I'd also be tempted to put a colour that Holden used on the Toranas back in the late 60s/early 70s. Called Linamint. An absolutely excellent green. And those Toranas were GTRs too, so you can say it's a GTR colour. There's another from the same set called Strike Me Pink. Probably a bit much for a Jap car though.

100% pure snake oil.

Hmm. Given that the retail price in AU for a brand new one is ~$4k, GLW $3k bid.

-7s are OK. Some lag, but not terrible.

Just cut a shim from a coke can and insert it in the flange between the BOV and where it mounts. A gasket without a hole in it, if you will.

Well then. Break out the wiring diagram and look for those wire colours on a 2pin something or other near the other dashy stuff.

Look for cracks in the signal lines running to the BOVs. They are long hoses and if you can vent enough air out of them (through cracks) you can cause a significant pressure difference between what the engine is seeing and what the BOV diaphragm is seeing. 900 year old Nissan OEM hoses lying in the bottom of the engine bay are as likely to be stuffed as anything else is.

Yeah I was talking about specifically in connection to doing so on the original turbo, which starts spinning very fast indeed(TM) after about 12 psi on a 25.

Was probably for some alarm component that was mounted near the barrel. An RFID/prox sensor or other switch. Possibly even just an LED. It does not look much like a typical Nissan underdash/loom plug.

To be fair, you can make over 200 rwkW. It's just a question of whether it is until tomorrow or the day after.

Typical heavy boat RB25 consumption.

In that case, ~190 rwkW, at best. Probably less, because not Neo. Well, if he's willing to risk his/your time on the dyno, then who am I to complain? There is no difference between yellow jackets and "shitty ebay coils". Same same. That is a very rare result.

To carry on from Duncan's valuable observation.... Standard turbo will not likely exceed 200rwkW at the maximum sensible boost pressure, which is only ~12 psi on these turbos. The yellow coils have a better than even chance of pissing you off as soon as the boost exceeds 10 psi. These are not a good choice. You'd be well advised to f**k them off before you go to the dyno so you don't waste their time.

That is so far in the future that the question is meaningless. 5 years perhaps not so much, but 10 years is well into the possible territory of "how dare you try to register a car with a petrol engine conversion you environmental savage you!?!**" **Won't somebody think of the children. Also, I would not expect an NA RB25 to ever die. 1 million km is not unreasonable. I don't know why people keep expecting Jap engines to die.