R31Nismoid

There is no way you'll build a reliable 370rwkw GTR for $10,000. Use the search function, it's been fully detailed many times.

Thread cleaned, user banned. Life now returns to normal. Don't feed the troll guys, just report the post.

That is why you talk to the engineer, tell them what you are doing - they tell you it's OK - you then go and do it. Which is exactly what i did. It was not backyard style, it was done after consulting the engineer and that approach is perfectly fine inline with ADR's according to them. You have issues if the car has airbags, but no airbags makes things very different.

Take a drive to Racepace in Bayswater.

Just welded in some metal bar around the hole (it was bent to suit), i forget how thick it was though so i can't help you there.

AFM will be good for over 350rwkw. Injectors - depends on pressure. If you up the base to say 45psi then you'll squeeze more out of them easily enough... Also depends it seems on the tuner, E85 and fuel use seems to vary pretty heavily.

I've got a heap of emails from Dan to go through, my day off tomorrow (always Thurs). So will do it all then

ADR approved? To get an engineers? Just weld some reo type bar around the hole... That's all I did and passed Vic Engineers and everything down here is a bloody headache.

Nah wasn't a V-LSD - they are a waste of time - totally agree! Was a mech R200 (in my GTS-R incidentally).

Exactly Paul - didn't see oil mentioned anywhere... Oil plays a massive factor. I used the Castrol and my GT Pro (1.5) from the start, would still lock in a carpark @ low speed on the lowest setting with some accelerator, but I didn't mind it at all. Could simply add some Penrite Friction Modifier if I wanted it to be more forgiving. Very much a personal preference type of thing the ole rear diff lock-up. That said I've had shimmed R200 and a Nismo in a R200 - Nismo is certainly awesome, but take nothing away from a properly shimmed mechanical R200, they do very well for the amount of outlay.

Numbers sound about right, but think about it - they don't really mean anything N1 vs Stock as no one has ever split/cracked a bore @ 350rwkw (let alone 450rwkw) unless its one of the following: 1. Worst tune in the world and it detonating it's head off. 2. Worst bottom end assembly in the world leading to a rod coming undone and exiting @ 8,000rpm. Both of which if they occur, N1 block isn't going to make a difference as you'll have a gaping hole on the side of it regardless Anyway - I've given you info for one side, your call on what you do with it good sir (after more researching perhaps)!

If you are just putting on a high flow and aiming for 260-300rwkw - Just service the head and put the rest of the money in your pocket. Cost vs gain, you aren't going to see it. Spend money on brakes/suspension/tyres/clutch/diff or otherwise where you'll get far more bang for buck

lol... I suggest you take your car somewhere else mate if that kind of advice is being given out. There is PLENTY of info in the oil control thread. Users like r33_racer and similar have posted some pretty detailed information on the topic with full designs that are tried/proven after days on racetracks.

Because people split N1 blocks in the SAME spot as a factory RB26 block - irrespective of the power - if they are not built correctly. If you read all the threads, you'd see that's a reasonably common theme so why there is no straight answer is beyond me. It's been proven time and time again that a factory RB26 block will easily handle 450rwkw if built CORRECTLY from the outset. - Grout filling the block. - Doing the right oil modifications. - Putting a decent diff up front so it doesn't disintegrate and destroy the sump. - Building the bottom end properly so it won't spin bearings, wont let rods go etc etc. - Putting in a decent clutch that absorbs a bit of punishment rather than being a rock. I had 360-380rwkw in my FACTORY RB26 block. That block did (including before/after rebuild) - Easily 50 track days. Might have been more between two previous owners - 400+ 8200rpm launches, 30 or so of them on full drag radials (until i broke a diff), the rest on semi comps and AD08s in 285 - At least 40,000kms - plenty of that was not being taken easily. People have cracked under 400rwkw, same as people have had 500rwkw out of a stock one. Proof is in the pudding for me when so many users on this forum use stock blocks and never have a problem at all. These people are spending 15k on average doing a build, so 3k really isn't much in the grand scheme you could say... But I've always said, why spent it if you dont need to? You can then spent elsewhere on brakes, suspension, transfer case etc

^ pretty much this. External drains are a by and large, band aid fixes to a problem not correctly addressed during the initial build. Granted some circumstances require them, they are few and far between.

Plus a N1 block still has the oiling issues that doing a proper rebuild fixes. Also debatable that a N1 block is any stronger than a factory one, so even spending the money on one to start is another question entirely

Do it right the first time you won't need the external drain.

Yeah finally after it left in the mid 90s... Calder appears to be getting it's act together to bring back what I grew up on as a kid. Will mean Calder are going to have to spend some serious money though to fix the entire place up. It's a joke at the moment.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Have had 2 blocks. Both filled at least 1/4, no temp issues to speak of. Both were street driven with N1 water/oil pumps & using a decent tri-radiator (once was Racepace, one was Race Radiators) both @ 360-380rwkw. Ambient temp - 20 degrees Water temp - 70-74 degrees. heavy traffic 78 Oil temps (inc oil cooler) - constant 80-82, wouldn't budge Won't be a problem IMO for daily driving as power isn't really relevant when putting around in traffic.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

One of the best mods you can do Daniel, good to see you've experienced the amazement

Doesn't matter what the alarm type is, following ADRs there are not many to pick from and most installers are lazy which is the real issue Poorly installed = car will get stolen. Properly installed = car might not get stolen. Alarms are just a time delay/deterrent. I find it funny people pay $800 for an alarm system, but spend $200 on an installer. Spend $200 on an alarm and $800 on and install and you are MUCH better off.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Get out Google Maps and have a look-see. Plenty of good stuff in that area and also around Lancefield/Sunbury and what not as well, just depends where you are headed exactly and the old pot-luck draw of road condition that tends to change (as does roadworks and similar hehe)