Duncan

oh btw your engine was not at top dead centre before you removed the timing belt which will make it very tricky to put back together. you are going to need to either rotate absolutely nothing until the timing belt is back on, or slowly and carefully rotate the crank and both cams (by very small amounts) back to TDC. Or just remove the cams, then rotate everything, then put the cams back in

these are sometimes easy but more often a total PITA to get off. the one things I've always found is once you start to pull it crooked it gets impossible to remove....so before you go further give it some light taps back towards the engine, get some light grease on the crank nose and try again, evenly and slowly. but it is likely if you've already put force on it that it will be cocked and never coming off. if so, just cut it off. as long as you are careful towards the bottom (eg cold chisel) you won't damage the crank, it will just need a quick cleanup with wet and dry

umm I might be a bit old fashioned, but it looks like you already have more lock than the front end was designed for....do you really need more, more?

well basically track tyres have so much more grip that they let go very suddenly rather than the gentle squeal of a road tyre. This means they are much less predictable in the wet because they let go without warning

haha that hurts

lol turns out I had many over the years....the forums have got bigger but also a bit less close over the years....there used to be lots of those sorts of threads posted funny to read back thru them actually....especially when I don't go out of my way to promote birthdays! 2004 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/48257-happy-bday-duncan 2004 Kel threw a surprise 30th with a few SAUers along....including Merli loosing the drink comp with my sis-in-law http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/48290-happy-birthday-drunkan 2005 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/83217-happy-bday-dundan 2006 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/129107-happy-birthday 2007 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/179946-happy-birthday-duncan 2010 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/331994-happy-birthday-bean-counter

haha for some reason that 11 year old thread bump didn't turn up in my subscriptions...I can't believe we had computers back then

birthdays are posted somewhere? if I'm on the list it's probably because I'm userid 15 or something....we are into the 90,000s now.

ummm yep. more detail required on exactly what is stopping it going back in

don't worry, you'll never need to clean it. I've had (the same) fuel cell foam in the cam covers for 10 years now and it hasn't gunked up at all

yeah mate I reckon she'll be even more fun with that huge hole fixed in the power band.....it comes on boost like a 400kw car and call on the injectors...I saw 100% on the PFC which is never good love how it drives though, it is super predictable so you make the most of it.

gtr or gtt? gtt is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/88141-r34-gtt-bilstein-whiteline-suspension/page-15?hl=%2Bsydneykid#entry4203328. I'm sure he can also sort GTR stuff if that's what you need. Gary is a suspension engineer with specific experience racing skylines. I've got his stuff in my stagea and race gtr and in both cases they are awesome for the price....

I wouldn't bother with the gtst actuator....when they were sitting around for nothing they were worth it, but now days because lots of people do the change they are getting expensive. just buy a manual boost controller "bleed valve" instead. they are more adjustable and start at about $40. If I had a road gtst (and I did or about 8 years), I'd keep it under 200kw. Bit of boost, maybe a computer (nistune or powerfc, haltec is double the price for no benefit on a basic setup). Definitely shocks, springs and swaybars (guy sydneykid's kit). And then enjoy it.....spend any money you had left on entering motorkhanas and track days

oh and shocks have no impact on suspension or tracking in a double wishbone setup like skylines. the wheel would travel through exactly the same angles even if the shock didn't exist. most cars run strut front suspension where it does make a difference

BTW on tramlining.... if you've been spending money on front end bushes, while it can be expensive it's not wasted money IMO. Bushes wear and these cars sure aint new any more. I'm assuming you've change the caster rod bushes and upper control arm ones. there might also be a bush in the steering column, I'm not sure in the 34. there are also steering rack bushes and inner and outer tie rod ends. if you've done all those, one thing that surprised me in my 33 was how much worse wide and sticky tyres are for tramlining. what size and brand/model of tyres are on the front?

lol it's for sale for 20k. but in this case I'd swap it for store credit

I saw Zeb's work today. It's full of cool stuff

I am 99% sure you can't do what you want with those lights. It is very uncommon for LEDs to be able to be dimmed, some expensive 240v ones allow for this by adding a resister but cheapies will either be on or off, not dimmable.

I got them from Just Jap...and while I wouldn't argue if they say ATTKD are not the same, I'm very surprised if they are not interchangeable. Judging from the other posts in here it might have been a special deal on price though, and it was 300 not 356mm You can always swap to a DBA or similar disc, or go to ATTKD rotors+hats which I'm sure would fit in the calliper unless they have used a different offset.

will it have to meet any CAMS regs? Prod cars, IPRA and Sports Sedans all have very specific rules about allowable sizes BTW James has what seems to be a good one on his car, seemed to be a bit fiddly to put on but is working well

ahh that reminds me of the days when SAU had an autosalon entry.... sometimes it more than a girl on the bonnet to make a car look good. But I assume the day is focussed on the club and it's cars, right?

Great work, especially considering it is literally a backyard job. Now just got to keep it away from stone chips!

well in Oz I understand there are no rules on tyre width for a rim, instead we rely on manufacturer deciding what is safe. so you will need to check for a given tyre to be sure. In general I would expect 245 is the widest you can run on an 8.5" rim there is a full semi slick thread elsewhere, I mentioned those 2 because they are the cheap ones, between 300 and 400 a tyre. the best ones Dunlop DZ03G, Yokohama A050 or the Hankook whateveritis would be 500+ each. But the grip will be chalk and cheese compared to road tyres

lol cool problem to have assuming you don't take it out on wet days or drive it daily I would be putting a semi slick on the car like federal fz201, kumho v70a, toyo 888 etc also, you can fit much wider that gtr standard rims on the back of a 33 gtst, so find a larger set of wheels too. You should be able to get 10"/275 wide tyres on the back in the right offset

well it was...but with a control tyre there is little commercial reason for any tyre company to help out is there.