Duncan

standard setup has 3 cables to the battery starter motor alternator everything else. i cut power to "everything else" it stops the car which stops the alternator. It does mean the starter is not "isolated"....but then again I have a front mounted battery. If you only have 1 cable to the battery it will be tricky....starter motor draws 11ty billion amps so you can't run it thru most relays (or most fuses or circuit breakers for that matter). It is not fused from the factory

looks hard! I hooked the standard fuseable link to the input to a 80a relay (pin 30). Output goes to where the fuseable link went stock (pin 87) Second wire from the battery to the relay (86) Earth for the relay (85) to a kill switch on the dash, then earthed after the switch. Dead simple. And the only problem is the relay will drain the battery after a week or 2 if you don't turn it off at the kills switch when you stop the car....but this is a good habit anyway

yay still on. how bloody long does this 24 hour race go???!?

bargain for someone....I just paid $100 more for one on ebay. that part# is also for some late S1 cars like mine

If the stag won't do it...the elgrand is a pretty good car too....plenty to choose from at good prices.

sounds great, I'll be there! And since it is a CAMS event, I can drive the race car Payment details sent for 2 tickets

Just do what brad siad,....he got it right Years ago I tried the compromise of good road tyres on the track and it is just frustrating. Much better option is 2 sets of wheels that you swap before the track day. Buy some cheapies in whatever you want for road use with OK rubber on them, and then put semi slicks on the 17x9 (assuming they are good wheels). THat is a great size for reasonably priced semi slicks around 245/45/17 up to 265/40/17. The compromise of trying to use 1 tyre for 2 totally different uses will just frustrate you for both uses....and it is more expensive over time because you will rip up road tyres on the track

yay! straight after the rugger

yep...normal seatbelts OR a harness are OK....he just meant whichever one you have has to be firmly bolted it

Great to see another car becoming trackified! I would not bother spending any money on that list above before you fit proper semi slicks or slicks though...the difference will be chalk and cheese, and any suspension changes may work differently with the different type of tyre. ku36 is not a track tyre, its just a good road tyre

yeah +1 clutch pedal bracket is a common failure

yates was a hack who will never get anywhere in drifting. btw good call....fixed my post

sorry for taking so long to reply

they do break sometimes...but I've been using a standard one for years of abuse on the race car without trouble.

17x12 I don't think is a good choice for semis. toyo have on of the biggest ranges, their widest in 17 is 275....which would fit on 17x10. Full list here: http://www.toyo.com.au/Proxes%20R888.htm#AVAILABLE SIZES re55s stop at 255 in 17s. dunlops same. yoko same.

absolutely. i go thru 2 sets of upper arm bushes a season. the arms from UAS are the best answer I've seen to this problem...proper quality bearings and design

correct. and 240 is perfect for 17x8, I run that size and am very happy "stretch" is rubbish. just a fashion. manufacturers make their track tyres with extremely stiff sidewalls, just follow their fitment recommendations.

semi slicks smoke best

sure

have a poke around the motorsport section.....here are some recent data logger threads http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...l&hl=logger http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Iq...l&hl=logger http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Da...l&hl=logger http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ra...l&hl=logger

You'd be pretty lucky to loose an oil pump and not destroy they bottom end....I'd recommend having it pulled down before you worry too much about the oil pump alone. I also run the nitto pump on the race car, but I think any of the pumps are OK for 99% of people....just make sure you have the longer oil pump drive on your crank, and that you lock tite the screws holding the backing plate onto the pump....and don't spend your life bouncing off the rev limiter.

very soft disco stu, i thought only rb26s needed bearings that often?

my race car should be running for 17/7....dropping it off to UAS for the engine build on sat

32 gtr on the rear of my S1 pads $119 for A1RM from gslrallysport discs $190 from the RDA group buy calipers and lines $300-500 (I had them lying around, have 2 other sets if anyone wants them) much better stopping power, easy to source and cheap.

Indeed, and a lot of the posts in here are just people passing on rubbish second hand. As for racing on cast rims, I have used only 2 styles of rims on my car (about 200kg) lighter than Duncan's. Both are cast. Neither style have broken in 7 years of abuse, no sign of cracks. It is rubbish to suggest any cast rim is a death trap and any forged rim will never have an issue. We have broken 2 wheels but both were in big accidents so no complaint. As pointed out earlier you only get to choose 2 of out cheap, light and strong. I go for cheap and strong, the wheels are damn heavy with the extra material.