Duncan

The nissan part number is xxxxx-xxxxx format, if you find that it can probably be checked. I saw you mention elsewhere it may not be interchangeable due to o2 sensors, I'm not aware of any other difference 32/33 in terms of wiring or functionality, and aftermarket plug ins like Haltech sell a single 32/33 part number which implies it will run fine. Have you tried it? It should physically plug in and run even if the o2 sensors are different

haha have fun with the pick axe. you putting a little slab under it? I think it's worth the trouble to keep it flat and dry long term

Pretty sure the fuse box was on the firewall because it looked like a nice, clean space to put it. With the dash, console etc out it is easy to forget how hard some areas of the car are to access. I reckon putting stuff where you can reach it with the interior in is a much better idea....I need to move that 1 fuse still in my car (that runs the PDM) somewhere easier to access to, now is the right time with everything out.

So like I said, it is consistent with teh ECU not having power (no fuel pump signal, no cas, no ignitor power). Can you connect to the ECU when the ignition is on through USB? There are 2 relays near the passenger a pillar (blue, or apparently sometimes green!). One is for ignition power, the other powers the ECU. Check they both have power coming in from battery, and both relays turn on (click, and provide power output) when the key is at IGN

welcome to SAU! what are you planning to do with the engine? is it currently broken some how?

I think the advice on some really hard braking to get the brakes stinky hot is good. The advice to buy new pads and rotors is bad. If getting them hot doesn't work you need to just get a mechanic to skim the discs as said above. I'm pretty confident the rotors are warped, that's why the surface rust isn't getting wiped off straight away. BTW it is perfectly normal for a brake disc to grown surface rust overnight if it gets wet, it gets wiped off as soon as you use the brakes

haha fuel pump relay always used to be in the boot, these days it is in the trunk!! the fuel computer varies the earth not the power to the pump (and, generally you would chuck it and harwire the earth, and replace the factory feed with a wire with fuse from the battery to the fuel pump relay (or a replacement) so you get a proper 13.x volts at the pump.) It would be worth checking if the signal side of the fuel pump relay is turning on. I think you have an ECU power or ECU issue.

I should say that the kit I fitted was for an R32, but had very generous line length (if anything a little too long, have to keep them out of the way). I didn't measure them compared to R32. standard lines, noting the standard lines have a fitting to bolt them to the knuckle. If you can afford the risk of the car being off the road for a week, I'd try standard lines, as long as they are not taught at full droop on the suspension, I'd just use them...

I suspect that is my long ago voice quoted there. Anyway, the point was you either use a banjo bolt end on the line (which seals with a copper washer to the calliper), or a flare nut (which seals on a removable olive inside the caliper). Ultimately I changed across to aftermarket 8 piston brakes and have done about a bazillion klm on them since. They were a R32 gtr kit that included braided lines, bolted straight on and off I went

You should definitely see if it runs OK with the standard filters back in, at least you then know what your choice is. Tuning is straightforward but you will cost around $600-$1k for a tuning license and a modification specific tune for the car

A non-zero rev reading

Yeah interior paint is a pain. Are you just going to clean and rattle can it? I need to do the same, I have a few places paint chipped off too

Hopefully that means no more Ford Territory at motorkhanas then!

It will be fine with standard turbos, boost restrictor in or out. Just be aware the standard ceramic turbos don't last well at higher boost (especially after 30 years) and might fail, and some people have reported engine damage as result

Stagea? C34 or M35? I have to check because last time I assumed it was a WRX. In any case, not really unless you are OK with it in the cargo area, which kind of defeats the purpose of a wagon

you can check it is getting an RPM signal while cranking by looking at the tacho

Great outcome, and those clocks are by far the least reliable electronic component in the whole car. Generally they just stop working rather than blowing up your AC though! Having said that, it is definitely worth unplugging the clock to confirm that is the issue, there are a bunch of other things that power from that fuse including Radio, HICAS control, something in the AC control (as you found), Auto trans for auto cars

I don't know for R33, but is it possible the paint has just been removed or flaked off? Does the vin plate match the number stamped in the firewall above the heater hoses? And, what is your location (not on your profile)? If it was imported to Australia it should have a local vin number or plate too for cross checking to the import papers

What is your suspension setup and alignment?

Transfer case temp is definitely an issue in hard track use, eg enduros or long rally stages

Damn straight, he could have sold SAU when NS's original owners did....glad he stuck with the trouble all this time

It did help in the cima (direct injected) once it got up there in age/klm, using it a couple of times sorted an intermittent miss at idle and midrange/full throttle.

well, since you want 3x factory power, reliable for track use and money no object, you need to have a dry sump oiling system instead of the factory one. everything else you listed will have less impact on your goal than a dry sump. you didn't mention what size radiator, but you will want a nice thick one. Also you mention engine oil cooler but not what size, you will need a larger cooler than you can fit in the front wheel well. Finally, the transfer case is more likely to need a cooler than front diff which you listed, rear diff or gearbox but the best way to tell would be to run temp sensors in each for a few track days to see if you have a problem.

using a brake pedal override seems like a nightmare for left foot braking/trail braking, and burnouts for that matter

whoa, aero doors! did you count how many holes?