Duncan

Good switch, I reckon they look heaps better in grey than red, the red and black ones are a bit blobby while the grey shows the shape better does it do good skids?

It really depends what you want, the places Brett mentioned are probably best as in crazy highest power cars, but that might not be what you are trying to build so other places might suit better. If you just want someone who can tune your car there are other reliable shops as well as the big names.

2 things; the wiring was only just big enough for the factory pump when it was shiny and new 30 years ago, often leading to voltage drop issues after all these years, and second is a computer on the earth with reduces the current at lower rpm to try and stop too much fuel being pumped. It was probably overly complex 30 years ago, and today it is much better with a modern fuel pump to feed it full battery voltage and use you ECU to control it if you are worried about warming up the fuel by circulating it too much

So, standard throttle body and standard AFM/airbox from the engine? I've never had a good look at the cima packaging (covered in plastic covers of course), is it connected directly from factory? I know there are complex inlet runners but I assume they are post TB and therefore you have those in place. Anyway, the engine made about 280kw from factory through that system, it is unlikely to be a restriction if you stick with all stock sizing. The focus was efficiency over performance of course, but having an overly small air inlet is not efficient either

f**k me, 10k for the ABS? Will be interesting to see how the difference feels. I've been living with 3 channel, 30 yo ABS for a long time, would be very interesting to see how it feels back to back.

Your tuner is correct that the -5 turbos will not change boost pressure if you use the original waste gate actuators (0.8 bar) and do not add a boost control solenoid. However they are incorrect to imply the car will with all stock supporting systems (ECU, afm, injectors, fuel pump), because the larger turbos flow more air at the same boost, and airflow is how the ECU determines load. I think you should talk to someone else, and FWIW I think finding a pair of stock (original or rebuilt) standard turbos with the ECU you have is a good choice. A GTR with 300-400awkw will cost 000s and is great fun, but you seem to be satisfied with with standard and focussed on cost

Or 4wd

But, this thread never got to a rally either!

Yeah sounds like good fun, it is easy too get sucked in to levels of motorsport that are expensive and competitive but not as much fun. My car is off the road since a tree pruning incident at Great Tarmac Rally a couple of years back. It is straight (enough) again and being slowly put back together now, but the reality is that a R32 GTR is kind of a dumb thing to rally these days given their value and cost/difficulty to repair. If/when rallies get going again we will probably runs something newer and cheaper/easier to repair like a 400z

It's worth noting that any tunable ECU will do what you need, but the PowerFC and Link G4 are direct plug in, while others like Haltech Elite will require custom wiring or an adapter at extra cost. Either way, the cost of tuning will be the same or more than the cost of the ECU, so you should find a tuner you trust first, and then buy the ECU they are familiar with. PowerFC is very suitable for low-mid power like you are talking about, plug in and drive off, and very quick to tune because there are less parameters than more modern ECUs. The problem with where you are right now is you are trying to work out a way forward based on what you have on your bench, rather than having a target power and buying the right parts to hit that. Any turbo more than about 10% bigger than standard requires many additional parts (and costs add up quickly). If you are looking for a pretty much standard experience without unnecessary cost, I'd be getting the HKS turbos checked and putting them back on with a standard ECU, and run standard boost. Anything other path will be 10x or more the cost.

Got it, so I would say that is normal returning to about 1500 then something is adding air for a little until it returns normally to 800. I'd disconnect the IACV and AAC wiring and see if it still happens, might be ECU sending a signal to add air, or might be a faulty air valve if it still happens

That would do it! (obviously I meant using iphones, not having kids) Did you make it to a tarmac rally before they stopped or will this be track focussed now?

lol did we just travel through time from the age of the iphone 6?

It won't be the auto ecu causing the issue, and it's not normal. I ran my manual swapped Stagea on the auto ECU for a while before I moved to PowerPC, the reason I moved was to run more boost. Like GTSBoy said, for revs to stay up (or fall slowly) there has to be some additional air in the system somehow. Even if the ECU is adding too much fuel you need 14x the air to keep the engine running. Does the same issue happen if you rev it when stationary, out of gear?

damn straight. twins were big in the 90s, and are again now. just like stranger things

Interesting they were not stock turbos in the first place. I guess you may not know much about the history of the car but it is possible the tune on the old ECU was not factory. The tags read UH 60539 431876 45 but unfortunately I have no idea what that means. Had the old turbos failed or were you just replacing them? If they failed, rebuilding them turbos with steel wheels would get you going again. The -5 you bought are about the biggest turbos you would consider outside drag racing etc but are not impossible for street use. If you go -5 you might as well buy a tunable ECU (and fuel pump, injectors and either MAP sensor or z32 air flow meters) because they will never run well on the factory computer, even with very low boost (they are larger, so they move more air than the standard ones at the same boost level).

Some old names in this thread, from 16 years ago!

Holy shit, that was a nasty accident. Hope the occupants survived

Unfortunately the seller has given you bad advice about those turbos. They are a direct physical fit (potential oil drain and oil lines issues but everything else should be OK), but they are a lot larger than standard. In addition to what BK said you also need either nismo or z32 air flow meters if the new ECU doesn't run MAP sensor. Those turbos flow enough that even at factory boost you will fall off the standard maps.

Man, if only Nissan made a "A prestige touring wagon that is functional yet comfortable"

Putting aside the turbo thing, you can also just run with the o2 sensors unplugged. Assuming the GTR is not driven in traffic all day it will not make a meaningful difference to fuel consumption (although, you might do more than your fair share to destroy the world)

sorry I just assumed GTR! I can check GTST if you have the vin but highly unlikely to be a different answer

Part numbers are 46245-05U01 46246-05U01 Amayama says they are non available and out of production Everyone just replaces the hard and soft lines with a single piece braided line

The nissan part number is xxxxx-xxxxx format, if you find that it can probably be checked. I saw you mention elsewhere it may not be interchangeable due to o2 sensors, I'm not aware of any other difference 32/33 in terms of wiring or functionality, and aftermarket plug ins like Haltech sell a single 32/33 part number which implies it will run fine. Have you tried it? It should physically plug in and run even if the o2 sensors are different

haha have fun with the pick axe. you putting a little slab under it? I think it's worth the trouble to keep it flat and dry long term