Duncan

Transfer case temp is definitely an issue in hard track use, eg enduros or long rally stages

Damn straight, he could have sold SAU when NS's original owners did....glad he stuck with the trouble all this time

It did help in the cima (direct injected) once it got up there in age/klm, using it a couple of times sorted an intermittent miss at idle and midrange/full throttle.

well, since you want 3x factory power, reliable for track use and money no object, you need to have a dry sump oiling system instead of the factory one. everything else you listed will have less impact on your goal than a dry sump. you didn't mention what size radiator, but you will want a nice thick one. Also you mention engine oil cooler but not what size, you will need a larger cooler than you can fit in the front wheel well. Finally, the transfer case is more likely to need a cooler than front diff which you listed, rear diff or gearbox but the best way to tell would be to run temp sensors in each for a few track days to see if you have a problem.

using a brake pedal override seems like a nightmare for left foot braking/trail braking, and burnouts for that matter

whoa, aero doors! did you count how many holes?

Well, I'd love to see some real world results from these turbos (ie, not from the manufacturer), there is a lot of doubt in these parts...

Volk Le-37s sold

That reminds me, better update my FS thread

to be fair, the straight is about 500m I agree up and down cruise are good things, probably the most often used buttons in the fuga. The problem with can buttons is you really need a pdm as well for most useful functions. still, a good toy, life would be easier in the gtr if plat pro supported can can pads, i run an old fashioned switch and button custom panel

lol, I'd be logging by the end of the driveway, every time.

Well, this is worth a read to get the facts from both sides https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/7820901/appalling-outcome-wakefield-hits-out-at-court-ruling/ Wakefield put in a DA to expand, at which point it was noted they had been breaching noise limits for years. Council came to a best compromise they could under state noise rules which Wakie didn't agree to. So Wakie took council to the Land and Environment court, won the case, but got tighter restrictions than council offered.....so basically, tactical mistake after tactical mistake from the track, they just keep digging their hole deeper. Its bad news for us, half the reason we moved to this part of the world was because the track is nearby. On the other hand, its so quiet out here we can hear noise from 10klm away so I'm not surprised there are residents around who are not happy. Bottom line, motorsport is a bad neighbour and the best thing it can do to be accepted is get quieter, fast. It's not such a big deal to have a muffled race car, and in 10 years time 90% of cars will be electric anyway....just time for them to move into the future.

And to add, yes ABS is not affected, and also you don't need to replace the dash (it will just show P or N but not the other gears of course). You didn't mention in the list above, but obviously you need a flywheel, clutch, bolts to suit and also remember to change the auto spiggot bush in the back of the crank across to a manual one, they are different sizes. Also....it is an awesome modification for a stagea

Good to see. I was just checking something around the manual conversion I did about 10 years ago in mine, and found these part numbers (noting they many are probably NLA now, but 2nd hand may be an option) Handbrake 36010-15U00 Gear Lever 32841-21U00 32841-21U10 Gear Lever snap ring 32204-V5003 Gear Lever boot 24216-V5010 Brake Pedal 46501-70T00 Clutch Pedal 46540-0V700 46540-21U00 Clutch and Master Bracket 46550-0V700 46550-21U00 Clutch Master Cylinder 30610-AA107 30610-21U91 30610-21U04 Note, you can use R34 manual centre console and shifter finisher, here are pics from mine. You can see in the last pic there is a very minor difference in finish on the console

Bit off topic in for sale but here we go R34 manual console in W34 stagea

I've never heard of any differences in the car side wiring between all 32 GTRs, so any ECU will fit and work. It would help to post full part numbers if you want input, rather than people having to guess/research if they want to help

Well, the AC relay is in that fusebox near the battery. If both wires go there the ECU wire must continue in the loom in the guard and into the cabin through the main loom grommet.

Ahh meant to post, I did check but the gaskets are not a separate part to the coil cover, which makes the sika solution doubly good.

Well, since you are pretty confident you have spark and fuel at #5 and 6, that leaves compression (other issues like timing would affect all cylinders) I'd take the cam covers off and check the cams are OK.

I know you said it has spark, are you sure there is spark at coil 5 and 6? with wet plugs you can probably rule out 5 or 6 injector or injector wiring

Have you changed the head unit? maybe the lights loop through the factory unit. In any case, if red/blue wires are everywhere under the dash and some have 12v only when the parkers are on (and some don't) then you have a wiring break somewhere, and should be safe to run an extra wire from a working part of that circuit to a part that has 0v....if you get it wrong a fuse blows, otherwise there was a broken wire somewhere in the loom and it starts working again.

p15 of the link you posted says the door control module is B-77 p11 shows B-77 is connector 38, which is to the left of the fuse box under the driver's side dash

Yes, they laugh at vertical surfaces and the "gravity" that hold we puny humans down. Seals like this, I've never used them but meant to be BAL29 compliant, the go on sides and between lintel and roll

Yeah I've got vermaguard at the bottom of the walls and the vermaseal at the top where it meets the roof in the new garage, but critters just walk up the roller doors and in through that gap (I'm going to try those brush seals when I get a chance). Unfortunately the shed where the race car is was built long ago and is neither critter nor snake proof and it is a problem, you get lots of unpleasant surprises about what they have decided to eat. Plus, I get snakes in there a bit in summer, one time in particular a brown popped out from under the workbench I was working at to hear what all the banging was about, went "oh f**k a human!" and zoomed off

Haltech can run an AFM, can't it? It just happens to have an onboard MAP sensor in the ECU it can use instead. I'm not sure where the standard AFM runs out of resolution, maybe around 250kw? If you are using the standard intake just leave it there, plugged in or not if you are using MAP. An AFM is better than a MAP sensor at lower boost loads as it deals with temperature and altitude differences better, but a MAP can be simpler when you are making a custom intake or using big boost levels where the AFM runs out of resolution.