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iruvyouskyrine

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Everything posted by iruvyouskyrine

  1. iruvyouskyrine
    Pics are up in the RB30 section mate.
  2. iruvyouskyrine
    Sorry about them being on an angle, they won't rotate for some reason
  3. iruvyouskyrine
    Didn't get the engine assembled today due to unrelated issues, but here are the pics of what i have done for my external VCT oil feed. Will chuck up more pics when it's all together
  4. iruvyouskyrine
    Thanks guys. I knew about the sequencing and ensuring clean threads etc. it was just confirming that the studs are only hand tight in the block that had me stumped! In my mind something capable of withstanding 200,000psi isn't tightened hand tight haha (i know that torquing the nuts is what provide the appropriate clamping force btw) So i will clean the threads in the block, apply assembly lube to studs, put them in hand tight, then just nip them up with an allen key before i torque everything to ARP specs. Thanks guys.
  5. iruvyouskyrine
    Bump
  6. iruvyouskyrine
    Hi all. Before anyone tells em to search, i have searched and have come up with so many different answers it's unbelievable. > RB25 head going on to RB30 block. > RB20/25 ARP 2000 head stud kit. RB25 service manual states tightening in increments, loosening off to zero, then tightening to 25-34 NM and then angle tightening 90-100 degrees. ARP kit says to install the studs hand tight into the block, put the head on and then lubricate the "stud threads, nuts and washers" with the provided assembly lubricant, then tightening the nuts in 3 equal steps to 108 NM. Now i have a few questions about the procedure. Are you supposed to put the assembly lube onto the stud thread before you put it into the block? Do the studs really just get put into the block hand tight? (Some people use the a hex key and tighten the stud before putting the nut on, which makes sense to me) I know this isn't *really* supposed to go in the forced induction section but as i am assembling the engine ATM i hope this will generate the quickest responses. Thanks all.
  7. iruvyouskyrine
    Pretty sure i saw something similar to this at Jaycar the other day mate. Not 100% sure though, but can't hurt to have a look there.
  8. iruvyouskyrine
    What fuel filter do you suggest using then for a dedicated E85 system scotty?
  9. iruvyouskyrine
    I'm assembling my RB25/30 Neo today so I will throw up some pics of my external feed.
  10. iruvyouskyrine
    Give me 2-3 months and I will let you know
  11. iruvyouskyrine
  12. iruvyouskyrine
    Nismo/Cusco/Kaaz etc
  13. iruvyouskyrine
    Also had some mates come round on the weekend (thanks Sean, Callum and Jordan!) and prep my engine bay for paint. It is the one thing that has always annoyed me about the car. It has been partly epainted in a similar red by the old owner but it really wasn't even close to the original colour. And in other spots the paint had started fading. I really regretted not doing it when i dropped the 25 in so this time i made sure it got done. I got talked into going silver by my mates when i really wanted to go bronze in the engine bay, to match my wheels. They all thought that it came out great but i'm not sure i'm 100% convinced with it yet. Will see what it looks like when i drop the engine in.
  14. iruvyouskyrine
    So armed with a multimeter, time and some ambition im about 3/4 done redoing the loom. Looking pretty good so far
  15. iruvyouskyrine
    You haven't been doing much reading then. And you obviously haven't read any of Scotty_nm35's posts about injectors either!
  16. iruvyouskyrine
    There is a guy in Melbourne who has retrofitted 25 (iirc) VCT onto a 26. Look up 'down and out' car club in Facebook. Silver R32.
  17. iruvyouskyrine
    In Newcastle but will come down to the next texi for a squizz. When/where is it? I still don't think that the standard 236/232 NEO cams will get anything close haha!
  18. iruvyouskyrine
    XKLABA have you got any videos of your car? Have been keeping an eye on what you post and now it's running i want to see it! I would also like a slightly angry/lumpy idle but i don't think standard neo cams are going to give me that haha. Are you really able to tune it for a lumpy idle and have no engine health side effects?
  19. iruvyouskyrine
    The manifold pictured is a copy of a JUN manifold, not one that has been cut and shut. I will be installing a greddy copy plenum onto my car and have been wondering about the coolent bleed. Is it really as simple as running a coolant line up as high as possible (above the height of the radiator cap) and putting a screw to bleed it like 89CAL has? That would make life easy
  20. iruvyouskyrine
    Why were they maxed out at such a low power level? I understand the auto box will give a lower power reading but that's still awfully low to have them at 100% duty cycle?
  21. iruvyouskyrine
    That's the exact reason i have a NEO head siting on an RB30 block in my shed
  22. iruvyouskyrine
    I was originally planning to keep the ECU in the standard position and run the loom up behind the dash and through the firewall on the drivers side using a Deutsch Autosport bulkhead connector. Part of the reason i wanted to do this was that it would make life easier if i ever had to take the engine out again, and partly because it is a cool idea and would give me some experience with wiring. Following wiring diagrams and making a Mil-spec loom seemed like a pretty cool idea to me as it is the sort of stuff that i would actually enjoy doing! Unfortunately other priorities have taken over and i don't think i will have the extra cash lying around to be able to use the bulkhead connector. At around $120 a pop it is honestly money i am better off spending elsewhere on the build (don't worry, it has already been spent on other cool things haha) I will still be leaving extra wires in the harness so as i can connect them up to oil pressure, oil temp, water temp and air inlet temp sensors to feed that information back into the ECU. Eventually i would like to run a IQ3 dash or something similar with all the info i will ever need on there, so deciding to do it this way to futureproof.
  23. iruvyouskyrine
    So i have decided to redo the wiring loom and ditch anything that is not necessary. Downloaded the R34 service manual and jumped in trying to nut everything out. Was a bit confusing at first but with the circuit diagram and the ECU pin out it made life easier. I think i have figured what i am able to cut out of the loom and what i have to keep (everything highlighted is staying). Also a before and after of what the loom should look like. Obviously there isn't over 100 wires standard as some are unused, but it still cuts it down quite dramatically
  24. iruvyouskyrine
    Not the ideal head, just the easiest
  25. iruvyouskyrine
    That is way way to much money for an RB30. Go local and find one someone has pulled from a running car for much less. I got mine cheap as chips.
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