Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bro, clearly all go and less show - my style! Nice and clean - has the goods. I like it.

Damn, any vehicle that runs a 13 sec pass is damn fast. damn fast.

Hit the 12 sec mark and you can call your beast - FAST...

Good luck... hope to meet you soon.

REgards,

  • Replies 172
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks man, just got it running today, haveto run the clutch in and still get it tuned with the z32 and hook my boost controller up, f**k it feels so good driving it again!!

my first full build up!! and at the age of 18!!

thanks man, just got it running today, haveto run the clutch in and still get it tuned with the z32 and hook my boost controller up, f**k it feels so good driving it again!!

my first full build up!! and at the age of 18!!

I feel ya G - damn tight.... good shyte... start early as when you're older, you got no money and no enthusiasm.... i'll be watching closely with interest on your beast.

car was tuned today.. made 206kw at the wheels on 14psi standard turbo and actuator.. actuator is letting us down with not holding boost but shit happens..

MASSIVE thanks to rob and daniel at creatd motorsports... they go to all lengths to help you out on anything that is needed, i cannot hold them high enough..

  • 2 weeks later...

went to calder drifts had a ball there, but bowed out mid way thru the night due to a broken water pump...

i want to put a koyo radiator in now with another std rb25 pump... which koyo do you guys think is good? the type s seems good for under 500 bucks...

Nice Build up mate. should be the goods with that 30/40 strapped to the side. Just remember that its not only the bottom end that will break, gearboxes and axels will go aswell with 340rwkw and slicks on the strip...unless your real easy on the launch. but hey all the best and i can wait to get my new turbo on my car. mine is i bit more bling bling than yours tho.

Andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And one last super random thought, I remember when SAUNSW had a dinner with Alan Heaphy, and another with Fred Gibson there was talk of the R32 GTR cast alloy uprights failing in racing, and one of the things Fred did when they had to add weight to the vehicle was taken the failing alloy uprights, and have them made of steel. Does anyone remember back to 1990/1991/1992 and WHAT was failing in the front hubs/uprights?
    • If you truly want to know how the original failed though, was it a factory defect possibly etc, send it off for investigation. Would probably cost a shit tonne.   The ones that you need to win lotto for, unless you have a good reason for that part to be bolt on, I'd probably roll with getting a few small stitch welds carefully put in place as an extra safety factor once everything is all torqued up tight
    • Are you sure? Because I wouldn't necessarily be. Do we even know the material they've made the new uprights from?   Looking at the fractures in the earlier pics, it does to me look like both a twisting, and levering upward action doing the damage, so you're hoping for both compression, and tension. Depending on the bolts, they can stretch (even high grade bolts will) and now you're hoping for the threads themself not to stretch, as if they do, bye bye mating surfaces holding together, hello bolts now going into shear.
    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...