Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

God damn reading this thread goes around and around in circles.

We need a summary.

This is basically it.

I have fixed the spewing oil everywhere problem on my RB30/25 and based on my experience this is what I would do on an RB26:

Fit 1.0mm oil restrictor. Drill out oil returns to 10mm and relieve all oil returns. Fit Mines baffle kits to cam covers.

Install 2 fittings to sump as high as possible run one hose to the top (this is a pressure relief - may also blow some oil) of an at least 2L catch can and the other to the bottom (as a drain). Also vent your cam covers to this catch can (should be very little comes out of them). Then instead of a filter on top of the catch can run a pipe to either another catch can or an oil/air separator and what comes out of that should be fine to pipe into the turbo intake - or if you prefer to a couple of LARGE airfilters. This should deal to your problems (don't bother with fitting on back of head). The second catch can will need to be emptied but not very often.

Also (not directly related) minimum baffle kit for sump - better large capacity sump - better still accusump.

The things I would add are as follows:

Good oil control starts with good blowby control. If you have alot of gas there is no way the oil will return from the head of your motor.

I am going with a 1.25 oil restrictor on my next motor.

Having an oil return from the catch can is excellent but a one way valve is a really good idea.

Make sure the size of the holes in the sump are reasonable - tempted to say atleast -12 but maybe -10 is enough.

Not massively convinced by the Mines covers.

I lived with an engine bay covered in oil for way too long, We tried 57 different varietys of catch cans, drains, one way valves etc in my 25/30 to no avail, Even tried the pump from the catch can draining oil back to the sump, It was semi successful at best.

Leak down tests were always good but it became the bane of my life, a couple of hot laps and we would strike more oil than the caltex refinery.

The answer is already in these pages but its damn simple.

parts required.

RB 26 tappet covers

Mines baffles

catch can

-12 braid or equivelent internal diameter lines from the covers to the can

25 covers are an inefficient desing and too small, the 26 covers have a larger capacity and with the mines baffles are a way better design,

the -12 size lines are a must. -10 with only a small amount of oil in the line completely blocks and then just starts a continuous flow of oil hydraulicing in to the can.

The larger diameter of the -12 doesnt fill with oil and even if some does go in the line it doesnt completely block allowing the sump to still vent past any oil in the line.

I doubt anybody has pumped more oil in to their engine bay than I have over the last 2/3 years and i still havnt gotten used to the idea it doesnt happen anymore. first thing I do after a hard run is pop the bonnet looking to see how much oil I've splashed around but there is none. zip, zilch, zero. Not even in the can itself.

In the grand scheme of things its not an expensive fix, particularly for those already wearing 26 covers.

For the 25 blokes the 26 covers bolt straight on so grab a set and gitrdone.

  • Like 1

The answer is already in these pages but its damn simple.

parts required.

RB 26 tappet covers

Mines baffles

catch can

-12 braid or equivelent internal diameter lines from the covers to the can

I have RB26 rocker covers, mines baffles, a very effective catch can and -16 from the covers to the can...

Still have issues, I get around 300ml going into the catch can every 60 odd sec lap

I have RB26 rocker covers, mines baffles, a very effective catch can and -16 from the covers to the can...

Still have issues, I get around 300ml going into the catch can every 60 odd sec lap

...and there's your problem. 60 second lap. slow the F down...

  • Like 2

Apologies if this has already been covered!

I am looking to install a Tomei Oil Pump and I believe it flows more than the other aftermarket pumps listed in the table on page 2.

The car is primarily street, and will be taken to the track occassionally.

Engine is RB26 so has solid lifters.

Would I be right in thinking that a 1mm restrictor would be the best compromise?

Thanks for the reply. My question was regarding what size restrictor to run to account for the increased flow of the Tomei.

Being solid lifters I understand not much oil is required. So would that justify me using a 1mm restrictor in conjunction with a Tomei pump? Or should I stick with a 1.25 or a 1.5mm?

Even at the lowest setting on the Tomei I believe that they flow more than any other pump listed in the table, primarily due to the larger gears.

  • 1 month later...

Sorry if this has been covered. I've been through a few pages here and there and found a few catch can diagrams but does anyone an mspaint flow diagram of the best/recommended catch can setup (that most agree on after 51 pages :P)?

Thanks guys.

Don't do MSpaint but can do English. IF you have an oil control problem apart from the other measures here is what to do catch can wise: Run 2 half inch hoses from as high as possible in the sump on the inlet side to a catch can mounted at battery level - one hose to the top and the other to the bottom (for a drain so include an optional one way valve). You can combine the hoses from the cam covers and run them into the same catch can (ideally a well baffled catch can). Do not vent the catch can to atmosphere but run a hose from the top of the can to the turbo inlet. Ideally you would include an air/oil separator in that line or alternatively a second catch can although neither may be strictly necessary if you are not getting oil in the line to the turbo inlet.

Sorry if this has been covered. I've been through a few pages here and there and found a few catch can diagrams but does anyone an mspaint flow diagram of the best/recommended catch can setup (that most agree on after 51 pages :P)?

Thanks guys.

  • Like 1

I agree with the above.

This is my pretty picture I just made. With the hoses coming from the rockers you can either do two hoses if you have enough inlets on your catch can or or like Kiwi says you can run one hose (on mine I joined the two together with a tee piece and ran one hose off the middle outlet of the tee to the catch can.

post-92503-0-13891500-1379722102_thumb.png

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...