Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In Melbourne I do it, in Adelaide Martin Donnan, In Perth Speedworks with Badbiki. And there's the fact that Badbiki and PLMS both sell rom editing boards for DIY.

My contact is [email protected] 0425 818 755

More than happy to send any QLD enquiries your way, and perhaps you could return the favour....

Remapping is certainly a far better option than E-Manage.

Sam.

  • Replies 234
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

And Mark at Hills Motorsport in Sydney also remaps standard computers, and Powerplay also in Sydney sell remaps done in jp by a ex-nismo engineer.

Plenty of choices, and a remapped standard computer is a great thing. We run them in our race cars, we get to keep the knock sensor and consult ports among other things ;)

I work for chiptorque down at the coast.  I would suggest you bring it there as we are the only people in Aus that can reprogram the factory ECU as far as I am aware.  Tell me more about it so I can give you the approximate gains.

A few mods are in my spare room at the moment but they will be before I get it tuned.

Redtop sr20det 180sx auto,

GTi-R t28, full exhaust, pod, stainless exhaust manifold, FMIC, boost controller, walbro.

I have 550cc injectors (top mount + rail + FPR) to go in, and would get a bigger AFM if recomended.

I looked at chiptorque's pricing a while back, and it was significantlymore expensive than an e-Manage($400) + tune ($200), are the prices on the website are still current and un-flexible?

I'm a cheap bastard you see.

Would definately suggest bigger AFM (z32 are good) as the standard airflow meters usually restrict power to around 160 - 170rwkw somtimes you can get more. With those mods your probly looking at around 200rwkw. This is a rough estimate. Hmmm sard injectors not my favorite to tune but they are ok. I will find out a definate price for you. You might have some time to save as our booking period is about 3 weeks in advance at the moment but we'll see what happens. You cant really compare the E-manage to a re-mapped ECU, talk to any of the guys in the know.

Would definately suggest bigger AFM (z32 are good) as the standard airflow meters usually restrict power to around 160 - 170rwkw somtimes you can get more.  With those mods your probly looking at around 200rwkw.  This is a rough estimate.  Hmmm sard injectors not my favorite to tune but they are ok.  I will find out a definate price for you.  You might have some time to save as our booking period is about 3 weeks in advance at the moment but we'll see what happens.  You cant really compare the E-manage to a re-mapped ECU, talk to any of the guys in the know.

I am chasing around realistically 200rwkW (optimistically 210-220), so the AFM will be obtained for install at the same time.

The injectors are Denso (which I think are made by Sard anyway?), and I got the set of 4, top mount rail and malpassi adjustable FPR with guage for $350 the lot. :) Told you I was cheap.

I have a few questions (starting to get off topic, but I'll press on anyway): Are the maps preset One-size-fits-all, or is each car tuned on a dyno? Also I will be getting a high stall/transcooler/shift kit down the track, will the ECU need to be re-tuned to accommodate?

The price for the ca18det is a lot more appealing @ $600, comparable to the e-Manage + dyno time, why is the sr20det package one and a half times the price @ $900?

Also the chiptorque website is a bit thin on technical information, and what exactly is done to the ECU, whereas I know exactly what features the e-Manage will provide. Can you explain it in detail what functions of the ECU are adjusted?

Sam - Sounds like you've got much the same gear as us. Yeh we can do the r33 25 however we need to get the boards in from Japan. The focus of the company is more aimed at ford and holdens however we can tune anything really, we've recently had a couple of 360 Modena's in lately very nice. It just depends these days where you want to specialise I guess. The other thing is budget, if you could afford to R&D every car to the level that we wanted we would most definately be out of business. I'm sure you find yourself in the same predicament.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi there,

I just got the e-manage in my R33 skyline II (rb25det).The car running very bad and I couldn't tune it.Could you give me some idea please? Or tell me where can I go fix this problem please.

Thank you

What harnesses are you running....ignition, injection, boost?

If it's hooked up the ignition harness without using the diode trick, then your coils are probably already starting to get damaged.

Hi man

I just got an E-manage on a RB25DET .It running so terrible.I think it has the problem as what you show.And I don't know how to tune it.Could you show me the way how to fix this problem?Please?Now the car can't even run on the street.

Help please

Jack from melbourne

[email protected]

First step is to check that all the internal dial settings are correct, the 5 screw adjustments are set to 0 and it is wired up correctly.

If there is a problem with wiring or the dials it should be flashing error codes at you.

Plugging the unit in with everything set correctly and 0 correction will have no effect on the running of the car. I have wired up 3 engines, rb20, rb25 and ca18 with no problems on start up.

Hi man,It's me again

Thank you for your reply.

I already have a quick check on the ECU there.The connetion and the setting is corret.And I set it to all 0 it comes up the sam thing.The RPM very low and no power run at all.

Please give me more opinions or show me where can I find someone to tune it.

Thanks

Jack

Hi man,It's me again

Thank you for your reply.

I already have a quick check on the ECU there.The connetion and the setting is corret.And I set it to all 0 it comes up the sam thing.The RPM very low and no power run at all.

Please give me more opinions or show me where can I find someone to tune it.

Thanks

Jack

Jack,

Your best bet is to ring around the tuners in your city until you find someone who has tuned an Emanage before or is willing to have a crack at it.

Hey I'm in the process of looking at getting some bigger injectors to get fitted along with an Emanage and was wondering which ones are the best to use? Sard make 550cc injectors, Nismo and HKS make 555cc injectors. 555cc is right on the limit of the 150% increase over the stock 370cc injectors that the Emanage/rb engine can handle so would they still be OK? By the way my engine is an RB25DET and it's also an auto.

Hey I'm in the process of looking at getting some bigger injectors to get fitted along with an Emanage and was wondering which ones are the best to use? Sard make 550cc injectors, Nismo and HKS make 555cc injectors. 555cc is right on the limit of the 150% increase over the stock 370cc injectors that the Emanage/rb engine can handle so would they still be OK? By the way my engine is an RB25DET and it's also an auto.

How much power are you targetting? If under 500 bhp, then SR20DET JDM manual injectors are worth considering.:D

Hey I'm in the process of looking at getting some bigger injectors to get fitted along with an Emanage and was wondering which ones are the best to use? Sard make 550cc injectors, Nismo and HKS make 555cc injectors. 555cc is right on the limit of the 150% increase over the stock 370cc injectors that the Emanage/rb engine can handle so would they still be OK? By the way my engine is an RB25DET and it's also an auto.

With the e-manage it's the fact that the ECU adjusts the AFM voltage to 'trick' the ECU into providing less duty cycle to the injectors, the down side of this is the fact the ECU also thinks the car is under less load and as a result is using a load point on the factory MAP that has a lot more timing advance than normal. The bigger the injector size, the more timing the ECU advances, until a point where the advance is just too much for boost/load conditions.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...