Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

Picking up a 4 point harness on Wednesday, but I'm just wondering, how do I go about mounting it all up? I'll be keeping my back seat IN, and be mounting the main part on the back on the parcel shelf. But how do I mount the rest of it?

Thanks

Car is an R33 GTS-t Series 1

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah too much angle.

In the track GTSt I took the rear shelf out to use FIA plates under the shelf with eyebolts on top, but in the GTR I use eyebolts straight into the stock seatbelt mounting points.

  • 5 weeks later...

Can anyone confirm that mounting shoulder straps on rear seatbelt mounts is acceptable and would pass scrutineering at a CAMS/AASA event?

I understand you have to be within a certain angle, has anyone had any major issues and had to screw around and strengthen/mount on parcel shelf....

  • 3 weeks later...

hi, if anyone needs one of those "L" shaped brackets to mount the inner, lower strap of the 4 point harness to the trans tunnel without having to drill a whole I may have a couple spare. I bought a few in japan as they are hard to find here, and farken handy for mounting a harness in your skyline. just pm me and I'll sort you out.

Mounting the harness from the lower rear seatbelt mounts is ok.

It is within the angles specified in the CAMS manual.

Its stong as! it passes crash tests from the nissan factory and is within the angles set by CAMS. In my S14a I use the rear lower seatbelt mounting points.

I looked into mounting my harness from the parcel shelf using a 5mm backing plate. There was room to do it, but the parcel shelf itself is made of the thinnest bit of sheet metal I have ever seen. I reckon you'd rip it to shreds and pull the backing plate right through it if you had an accident.

Edited by nismoman
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

shoulder belts are done the same way as you described. purely as those two anchorages are load tested and re-inforced since they were desinged to take the standard seat belt anchorages. lap belt i remove one bolt holder the little rail thingy and replace with eye bolt. the inner mount is a bit tricker and the only sure solution is to drill a hole and weld a plate on the other side, but it's not very nice to your car, or very neat.

so the inside one you are screwing into the seat? that should be ok but with a race seat of course that's not an option. the harness needs to be fixed to the car body at all 4 points. hence the need for the bracket on the inside mount as there isn't a bolt there (it's a stud).

I am going from memory here, so I may be compeltely wrong. (As opposed to not going by memory & being completely wrong anyway, which happens to me a lot these days)

Anyway if you look at the bottom left hand corner of page BF70 of the R32 Gt_R manual. It replaces the anchor bolt on the seat buckle which goes into the seat rail according to the drawing.

You probably have a point about the location, but they never seem to have a problem with the lap sash done that way...

Not a great idea fastening it to the seat. In the event of an accident the seat is the most likely point of failure. Hust like in race cars they dont mount harnesses to the chassis, but instead they mount the seat to the cage and the harness to the cage. Car can distort but the cage is designed to protect the passenger cell

Well fair point. I was working on the idea that I would fit a harness & seat to my new car. Unfortunately it looks like I will have to do some more work as I want to keep the lap/sash arrangement as well as a harness. The buckle being attached to the seat frame complicates things if you want to replace the frame with a fixed side mount system.

Edited by djr81

yeah i dont use the lap sash bet with my cobra race seat. for 2 reasons. 1, they are not designed to work together. if I was wearing the standard belt and had a head on impact i would submarine my way under it. and 2, there is no where to fit the inner buckle/clasp.

for me: regular seat i use regular belt

race seat i use 3 inch 4 point harness. :happy:

Well they are the other two problems.

Because my thing isn't as race orientated as yours & becasue I have to travel a bit to get to the circuits I wanted to retain the normal belts. I have seen this done with fixed back seats but you have to be a bit careful in the selection. Not sure how to get around the side mount/seat buckle problem, however.

Submarining is why I don't want to use a 4 point harness. I find they ride up on my guts too easily (maybe my guts wobble too much over the bumps or something) hence I wanted to use a proper 6 point harness. Hell if you are going to be strapped in you may as well be STRAPPPED IN.

yeah, the only reason i haven't gone 6 point is i didn't want to drill a hole in the floor. the way my side strips go with the fixed seat submarining shouldn't be a problem. with a stock seat though it definately would be (no harness guides to keep the belt down low).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...