Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Okay on the weekend I hooked in a bit on my GTR, this is going to be a drag car but I have some interesting figures.

Standard wiring loom inclusive of all computers everything= 42kg's thats massive I dont need half of that.

Standard heater/blower/ climate control = 13kgs, not as much as i hoped for but when combined with aircon stuff makes a difference.

HICAS system= 27kg's

Standard fuel cell with pump= 12kg's

Thats all I can remember off the top of my head.

Duncan a dry sump system will weigh more, you have the pump which are heavy, the bracketry, the lines and fitting and the resevior. I would work on the doors and boot, and remove the rear bar reo and front as well.

haha we were considering changing the name to team roundworx for a while.....

but I'd rather take 20kg out of the car than exercise lol

Hahaha so true

Turbos hmmm

standard RB26 crank T04Z with 0.84

2.7-2.8 not sure

Rb30 crank i was thinking T04Z with 0.96 but wounder what the diff is in response to the T51R KAI BB as they would all most make the same power

But i think the RPMGTR has been thought many turbos trying to find the right setup.

I probably won't be building a track GTR, but a track MX-5. Do what the guys at Bullet do and chop the front off, space frame detachable front end (easier to work around) with discreet breakaway components for cheap fixes if I have a nasty bump,decent gearbox, brakes, Soarer 4.0L V8 with some headwork and MoTeC, maybe even supercharged and pumped guards with plenty of rubber. Add a decent hoop, seats and harness and it would be diabolical.

sports sedan eh? sounds good for a gtr too except it already has a good suspension geometry and can't move the front driveshaft and therefore engine.

mx5s are a pretty good base though, great balance and nice and light. Have you seen bd4's car?

i reckon a good track GTR would be:

R32 GTST

install SR20 with all the good gear (built motor, GTI-R solid lifter, big cams, quad throttles etc all the fruit).

whack on something around a GT-RS turbo. tuned to about 260 rwkw. extensively lighten car. use a GTR rear cradle and hubs. 1.5way LSD. good clutch and maybe a S15 6 speed with stronger gear and a custome lightweight tailshaft. GTR front guards and bonnet (with vent for v-mount) and front bar. V-mount intercooler and rad set-up. nice brakes, light jap wheels. welded in 6 or 8 point cage. stripped bare interior. obviously some nice suspension bits and good set-up. I reckon that would be one very quick car and handle quite nicely with the shorter, lighter engine set-up. so good weight balance.

hmm i may just do it one day!

install SR20 with all the good gear (built motor, GTI-R solid lifter, big cams, quad throttles etc all the fruit).

what's with the silly 4 banger? I think the whole "weight balance issue" is overblown... rb25 (or 26 if the budget allowed) is the way to go for a simple exchange without mucking with rb30det's...

I'm heading that way.. need another $10k to get it the way I want it though...1.5 diff, radiator, oil cooler, sway bars, nick off hicas. actually those will only be $4k or so.. still put my car under $20k total cost :(

well SR20 is quite light. being shorter it also shifts the weight balance further back, and gives room for a V-mount set-up which also moves some weight further back, and shortens the inlet tract. they are also very torquey with their square 86/86 bore stroke ratio. plus with solid lifters and the quads they can still pull a decent rev. i think it would make for a very nice track GTST.

well SR20 is quite light. being shorter it also shifts the weight balance further back, and gives room for a V-mount set-up which also moves some weight further back, and shortens the inlet tract. they are also very torquey with their square 86/86 bore stroke ratio. plus with solid lifters and the quads they can still pull a decent rev. i think it would make for a very nice track GTST.

If you could do it cheaply I guess it makes sense... It would be an interesting comparison though. Do it and we'll have a track off in 12 months time somewhere :(

I have the engine figures here at (including transmission)

SR20DET 490 lbs / 222kg

RB25DET 667 lbs / 302kg

You'd have to allow the greater weight of the RB25 box vs the SR20 one (20kg?) in the above to compare the engines themselves.

VQ35DE+T in an R32 GTS-T (or an R33) could also be an interesting one?? assuming of course it can be made to fit relatively easily. In a few years when the cost / availability of the engines is a bit more down to earth.

Guest Mashrock

or once again. check out yahoo japan.

and buy one of the cars i beleive bee-r had for sale which i think was one of their old touring cars which raced with the calsonic 32 gtr?? or similar class anyhooo

i think it was around 4mil yen.

http://www.bee-r.com/main/usedcar/gr-a.htm

and there is the link.

:(

The latest present condition selling price

7,000,000 Yen (including tax)

and i even did one them translate

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...Flanguage_tools

i can only dream

but that in my idea is the ideal dedicated track gtr.

Edited by Mashrock
install SR20

Yuk! :P

We have 2 Nissan SuperTourers with SR20's, personally I wouldn't touch one. :D

Ugly valve train, no end of problems. Weak alloy block, spindly crankshaft.

I take the RB31DET with the extra 80 kgs thanks. :(

And the extra 200 rwkw :)

:D cheers :D

well SR20 is quite light. being shorter it also shifts the weight balance further back, and gives room for a V-mount set-up which also moves some weight further back, and shortens the inlet tract. they are also very torquey with their square 86/86 bore stroke ratio. plus with solid lifters and the quads they can still pull a decent rev. i think it would make for a very nice track GTST.

or you could just put a rotor in there *runs away to hide* :)

But i think the RPMGTR has been thought many turbos trying to find the right setup.

As far as i know not for a while now.

Been the same setup for some time.

As with everything though in the early stages development probably had a number coming on and off.

Friend of mine had one of the ex-turbos on his car for a while, so at least one :)

I'll ask (if i remember) next week when i ringo him

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...