Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 459
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yup GT looks a million bucks but still plays like a 10 year old game.

I find it interesting that when i travel towards a wall at 200 clicks people don't get of the way. They just stand there and clap their hands.

^^^

well almost every console in the world is released here later than oversea's so i don't see how that would of made a difference at all.

PSX was launched in 94 in japan, 95 in australia, ps2 was released march 2000 japan, and october 2000 in australia,

gamecube was launched september off the top of my head in japan and march the following year here,

psp was launched in november in japan and mid the next year over here.

So i don't see where you are going with that.

Agreed, a world wide release was always very optimistic and i never thought it would happen for a second. For me 5 months has gone in the blink of an eye and more importantly gave me the extra time i needed to find funds for a fat surround setup :)

I picked mine up yesterday for 900 with a free controller. Also bought resistance and dowloaded a few demos that are not bad. Am yet to get an online game going though. Hopefully i was one of the first 20k to register as they send you a free copy of casino royale on BD if you are :(

Anyways back to the ps3 :(

I picked mine up yesterday for 900 with a free controller. Also bought resistance and dowloaded a few demos that are not bad. Am yet to get an online game going though. Hopefully i was one of the first 20k to register as they send you a free copy of casino royale on BD if you are :rant:

Anyways back to the ps3 :)

really? i sign up before friday so i should be getting one too.

also sign up for an HK account and USA account, as i have notice that for some reason some countrys get difference content. for example the usa demo of f1 has 2 different tracks than the uk/aus demo (usa has usa and italian tracks)

ps. how cool is that golf game on the Jap psn! its fun :laugh: even thou i have no idea what they are saying ahah

being ignored is cool :laugh:

tring buy from overseas. but unless you have somesort of contact in japan or hongkong it will cost you the same if not more than buying local!

i would personal wait a few months... possible price drop + more games.

Also there are alot of rumours of a ISO LOADER in the making weather or not it amounts to something or nothing we will just have to wait and see

i bought my from a wholesaler in HK and waiting for delivery

from this site www.yitaixieye.com

easiest way in contact with them is msn

if u buy 2 at a time the postage is free if you thinks its a scam wait a week and i let you guys no if a receive mine which is suppose to be sent out on monday

can someone please post a pic of what the power cable looks like please

depends where you buy the ps3 from. i got mine from japan and it looks like a japan plug...

i just went and use my pc cable plug.. works fine. you will be able to see once you got ur ps3.. i tk a few photos later 2night or 2morrow thou for you of the ps3 power plug and the cable i use!

I played 1 today at EB games and it took a hell of a long time to load the game I think they will have problems in the future with the console freezing

Was it a HD disc? Windows DRM encryption (AACS) on HD/BR discs means aroudn 60sec loading time whilst the drive decrypts the key and data.

The guy waiting for a mod chip for PS3 will be waiting a while.

i bought my from a wholesaler in HK and waiting for delivery

from this site www.yitaixieye.com

easiest way in contact with them is msn

if u buy 2 at a time the postage is free if you thinks its a scam wait a week and i let you guys no if a receive mine which is suppose to be sent out on monday

hey can you let me know if you get ur ps3 or not, as i am interested in buying some stuff from there website

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...