Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why would you wash the filter when you can buy a new one for under $40?? :)

the M35 ones look a lot simpler, C34 filters are fancier and enclosed in a plastic bracket, hence the hefty price of $170 for the pair. My paper is starting to look a little ragged after a few washes, might have a go at swapping some new filter paper/cloth into the brackets.

Could be a chance the M35 ones are a standard Nissan size, RCA113P (30 X 219 X 200), that are used on other models. eg a MAXIMA/PATROL/PULSAR/X trail etc ...

can someone confirm the size.

http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/pr...ma/part/RCA113P

http://www.advancedauto.com.au/pics/Cabin%...%20location.pdf

Ok, so is there any sort of trick for the series 2 to get the 2 filters out. I have removed the glovebox, metal and plastic panels behind and I am left with the bottom filter being stuck behind a panel that is attached to the dash and can't be removed without removing the dash or cutting. The top filter seems to be stuck. I can pull it out about 5mm but it won't come out any more. I figure if I can remove the top filter then I should be able to lift the bottom filter up and pull it out. Is this the right idea? Does the top filter just need a bit of gentle persuasion? This is a pic of what I am faced with..

DSC00662.jpg

I have a metal cross brace that sits in front of that plastic one. I think I might just cut the plastic one with the trusty Dremel since it doesn't look to serve any purpose. The metal one reinforces that area so, I guess it's time to start cutting..

Ive searched many Japanese sites, only a few options for aftermarket filters for C34, plenty for M35.

This guy did the same as ST, cut the bracket.

http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/127545...90838/note.aspx

I ended up cutting mine as well. I don't think mine have ever been replaced. Will have to invest in new ones due to the fact that even with soaking mine, they are still very blocked up.

Just had a quick look on FAST - when you bring up the part number for the filters it has the one that Chook mentioned in the first post (B7274-0V525) and it also has (27275-0V510) which matches the number on the end of both my filters. It say's that there is 2 per vehicle for the second number (0V510) but only 1 for the (0V525). I will order using the part on the end of my filter and see how I go with prices.

Edited by SSStagea

Im also going to try to get some, prob from japan.

From that Jap guys DIY, looks like you get these ones, AY684-NS003, http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w26837896 (R33 ones) and trim the end down, in the spot where they look like they are meant to be cut.

Once again Chook is right, they are a multi fit filter for about 20 different models and they need to be cut as per the pic. Last time I bought one, cost me the equivalant to $50, problem is, at todays exchange rate one would set you back about $83(!)

post-37588-1228635683_thumb.jpg

I ended up cutting mine as well. I don't think mine have ever been replaced. Will have to invest in new ones due to the fact that even with soaking mine, they are still very blocked up.

Just had a quick look on FAST - when you bring up the part number for the filters it has the one that Chook mentioned in the first post (B7274-0V525) and it also has (27275-0V510) which matches the number on the end of both my filters. It say's that there is 2 per vehicle for the second number (0V510) but only 1 for the (0V525). I will order using the part on the end of my filter and see how I go with prices.

the 0V510 is a superseeded filter, not made anymore, Nissan will give you price for the 0V525.

DSC00662.jpg

wtF is that plastic brace doing there??? I have a 2000 model series 2 and my brace is metal, and removable (screwed in with 2 screws either side). Looks identical. I'd cut that brace out all together at each end.

aircon3.jpg

hahahaha! classic :D

Yeah unfortunately filters for C34 are paper and in my case did not respond well to being soaked to clean; after 10 minutes with a toothbrush trying to get the tar out (mine were 'smokers filters') I gave up and ordered a new one of jap auctions. They fit and work fine, and look original. But white :blink:

Yeah, I have the metal bracket to but when you remove it you are greeted by the plastic bar. I cut it and got access to the filters. Will make it easy now for replacing in the future.

Thanks for the info Chook, will price them tomorrow.

Okay folks, Nissan Australia have provided me with the part number B727C-79925 this is for an R50 Pathfinder A/C pollen filter kit (2 pieces). I have physically checked it against the filter I took from my Series II and it is practically the same. They want $53.85 for the kit (2 filters) with no trade or SAU discount.

I could confuse matters by saying another dealership in the same city just 17km from the first, gave me this number MK270C-79925, didn't recognise the other part number above, didn't have any in stock and couldn't give me a price, so I won't. Most expect this from Nissan Australia.

Also, there a two types of filter available in Japan: Pollen & Smell filters (4,700 Yen) & Pollen only filters (2,100 Yen) By the looks of the one I saw at Nissan it is the latter.

What were the differences you saw between the 2 ? I have ordered this one, http://item.rakuten.co.jp/ap-murase/pc205b/ , (pic is not relevant) but in the table at the bottom it is for an R50 pathfinder as you said, but there is note next to WC34, basically saying that it is not an exact fit. So I am assuming it will require a modification.

There is also a possibility that the N15 Pulsar ones are a close match, but im not sure if the Oz model had them fitted.

Will post pics once I receive them.

Okay folks, Nissan Australia have provided me with the part number B727C-79925 this is for an R50 Pathfinder A/C pollen filter kit (2 pieces). I have physically checked it against the filter I took from my Series II and it is practically the same. They want $53.85 for the kit (2 filters) with no trade or SAU discount.

I could confuse matters by saying another dealership in the same city just 17km from the first, gave me this number MK270C-79925, didn't recognise the other part number above, didn't have any in stock and couldn't give me a price, so I won't. Most expect this from Nissan Australia.

Also, there a two types of filter available in Japan: Pollen & Smell filters (4,700 Yen) & Pollen only filters (2,100 Yen) By the looks of the one I saw at Nissan it is the latter.

Timmeh, not sure where you are in NSW, but you should have gone into Lincorp (Parramatta Nissan are part of this group) and shown your membership card for SAU-NSW - they would probably have given you a discount equivalent to the trade price or similar. I think there is also some account number you have to quote to get the SAU-NSW discount as well as show your card, but details would be in the NSW Members' section.

Ive got a series 1 '97 and have had the Glove box out like 4 times looking for these suckers and have had no luck at all :'( And i think my car was a X smokers car but not sure :S

Will take some photos of under their tomorrow and people can give me a bit of a hand..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...