Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Man what happened to all the auto guys? This thread is dead...

Are these the options or tuning the auto skyline r33 :

Toshi's tune

Nistune..need more info about this

eManage blue/ultimate

Safc and sitc

Power Fc

Are these users able to retain the shift logic? Toshi is all out of auto ecu's and wont be importing anymore so I dont know if he is an option. He mentioned not being able to do over 200rwkw or so on the eManage.

Want to see in excess of 230rwkw (have usual mods - intake/exhaust , injectors , fuel pump - high flow turbo to 18psi , trans cooler , mv valve body upgrade)

What ecu can I use that will retain daily drivability but get me to 230rwkw?

A few Options

Adaptronic E1280, Wolf 3D V550, The Newer AEMs can do it, Holley Dominator EFI will do it shortly

Man what happened to all the auto guys? This thread is dead...

Are these the options or tuning the auto skyline r33 :

Toshi's tune

Nistune..need more info about this

eManage blue/ultimate

Safc and sitc

Power Fc

Are these users able to retain the shift logic? Toshi is all out of auto ecu's and wont be importing anymore so I dont know if he is an option. He mentioned not being able to do over 200rwkw or so on the eManage.

Want to see in excess of 230rwkw (have usual mods - intake/exhaust , injectors , fuel pump - high flow turbo to 18psi , trans cooler , mv valve body upgrade)

What ecu can I use that will retain daily drivability but get me to 230rwkw?

A few Options

Adaptronic E1280, Wolf 3D V550, The Newer AEMs can do it, Holley Dominator EFI will do it shortly

Is this true. We used to be looking for ecu's to retain auto shift logic everywhere. Have I been that behind the times or do all the above retain the auto boxes shift logic in an r33?

Is this true. We used to be looking for ecu's to retain auto shift logic everywhere. Have I been that behind the times or do all the above retain the auto boxes shift logic in an r33?

Stu released a Type 6 board (still beta/prototype) to nistune your stock ECU (in the past had to be a Z32 8-bit ECU)

There was a thread started in this forum, however r31nismod decided to delete it because it sounded too much of a trader ad.

You should speak to Mat from Nistune, he might have a solution for you retaining your factory ECU, however with the new type 6 nistune board.

I, myself have not used (type 6 that is) however it looks very promising, have however used/tuned other nistune vehicles and it's great.

They're piggy backs. dvs jez has tuned an adaptronic on an auto 33. If i recall the mods correctly it would have had around 280kw

Stu released a Type 6 board (still beta/prototype) to nistune your stock ECU (in the past had to be a Z32 8-bit ECU)

There was a thread started in this forum, however r31nismod decided to delete it because it sounded too much of a trader ad.

You should speak to Mat from Nistune, he might have a solution for you retaining your factory ECU, however with the new type 6 nistune board.

I, myself have not used (type 6 that is) however it looks very promising, have however used/tuned other nistune vehicles and it's great.

Thanks will have a look and report back

best part about nistune is their trace functionality, shows you a load trace and display afr or whatever value you want

other ECU software you need to log, then read the log for that view (just makes it a tiny bit more time consuming)

I've been following Stu's post, seems the 1st batch were slightly dodgy however it appears it may have been fixed.

He mentioned not being able to do over 200rwkw or so on the eManage.

Why? If he is worried about knock, shoving e85 in the tank will fix that...

I have seen 250kw easily on petrol safely, and over 300kw on my Ethanol Emanage Ultimate tunes. I can't see why the VQ would be any different to RB tuning...

Why? If he is worried about knock, shoving e85 in the tank will fix that...

I have seen 250kw easily on petrol safely, and over 300kw on my Ethanol Emanage Ultimate tunes. I can't see why the VQ would be any different to RB tuning...

I think he's missing a vital piece of information, and that's probably the stock automatic gearbox will go kaput with over 200kW

Only just found this thread so sorry if i have missed this but y cant we just put a manual valve body in and wire the od switch into a diffrent power sauce and just run a manual ecu ? O and I have a r32 with 220 rwhp probly a bit more now and a 3500rpm converter and loving it.

I believe you can do exactly that.

It is also possible to have a completely standalone computer (at least for the R34) for the automatic side of things. This is probably 'better' than going full manual, because you can configure absolutely everything that a transmission can do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...