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Diy R34 Manual Conversion Using R33 Parts

E_Lu-SHuN

By E_Lu-SHuN,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

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E_Lu-SHuN
E_Lu-SHuN

Hi guys, I've Just recently did a manual conversion on my 1998 r34 sedan gt-t and it was a success. It took me a while to research on all the parts needed but the end result was excellent. Now obvio

R34mac
R34mac

I just thought I'd add, I am thinking there are some small differences between the R34 manual and auto ECU's, besides the auto gearbox logic. I've noticed when slowing down, the revs will only drop do

533 RYC
533 RYC

Had the same issue 3 months ago, the top part WON'T come off, so stop trying! The boot is installed from the top (where the shift knob screws on). This description is going to sound a little weird, so

Posted Images

  • 2 months later...
E_Lu-SHuN Mentor

E_Lu-SHuN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

sorry about the pictures guys, it was deleted from the server when i didn't renew the subscription.... ill have to dig up my photo archives to see if i have back up.

And i have been M.I.A from this forums for a while

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  • 2 years later...
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  • 9 months later...
ben_harmer32 Newbie

ben_harmer32

Posted
Posted
On 10/23/2006 at 5:16 AM, E_Lu-SHuN said:

You will need these when you get the gearbox ( These are all r33 parts except the gear knob )

PICT0107.JPG

(Circlip is in place to hold the gear stick in )

PICT0109.JPG

PICT0110.JPG

(had to cut peices off so it would go into gear)

PICT0111.JPG

PICT0112.JPG

PICT0097.JPG

( still using the auto surround for now until i find a r34 manual one )

Here is the wiring for the inhibitor and reverse switch. I didnt connect the neutural switch.

PICT0077.JPG

that is the connector from the car the wires to work with are the RED(REVERSE), BLACK with PINK(INHIBITOR), and Grey(POWER)

Anyways here is the allocating pins from the auto gearbox

PICT0071.JPG

And here is a rough diagram of how to connect it to the manual gearbox. Colour coded

wiringdiagram_copy(1).jpg

**both brown wires are the same.Doesnt matter which brown goes to what..its the same**

The reverse switch consists of two brown wires(as seen in diagram) . One brown wire from the reverse switch joins together with the inhibitor(BLACK with Pink) and the power(GREY).

The REVERSE wire (red wire from the auto plug) connects onto the remaining brown wire of the reverse switch.

So for the reverse switch, one brown wire connects to the reverse signal(red wire) and the other brown wire joins with the inhibitor and power(3 joint wires).

Hope that is explaining it easy.

The auto ECU will work fine with the gearbox. You will geet a A/T light up on your cluster, but dont worry nothing is wrong.

Hope my tutorial is helpful for all you r34 tiptronic owners wanting to do a conversion with r33 gtst parts.

Glad to help others.

cheers,

Sorry to bump and old thread. Does anyone have the wiring diagram or pictures for this at all please? I'm struggling with what goes where. Thank you in advance!

  • 10 months later...
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted
20 minutes ago, toranarod said:

If I was buying a R34 How can I tell if it was originally a Manual or an automatic. is there a number on the Id plate that would specify what the car was when it was manufactured 

Yes. The Id plate tells you what transmission

 

OldMateDavey Rookie

OldMateDavey

Posted
Posted

The original Nissan Motor Co., LTD. Japan plate has the type of transmission the car was born with, stamped at the bottom next to "Trans".

If it is/was an automatic, the stamping will read: RE4****. See attached as an example. 

If it is a manual, the stamping will read: FS5W****.

"*" = the star won't actually be stamped, but different models have different suffix after the letters/numbers of what I've posted. 

 

20200211_131316.jpg

toranarod Contributor

toranarod

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, OldMateDavey said:

The original Nissan Motor Co., LTD. Japan plate has the type of transmission the car was born with, stamped at the bottom next to "Trans".

If it is/was an automatic, the stamping will read: RE4****. See attached as an example. 

If it is a manual, the stamping will read: FS5W****.

"*" = the star won't actually be stamped, but different models have different suffix after the letters/numbers of what I've posted. 

 

20200211_131316.jpg

thanks that is very help full. 

Is the car devalued if it was once a Auto and now a manual?   I have found a coupe GTV R34 For 9k is that a reasonable price for a no original car. 

OldMateDavey Rookie

OldMateDavey

Posted
Posted

Not a worry mate.

In my opinion, the value stays the same if not increases it as it's a far better car to drive, now it is a manual. Best to always get it checked by a professional that the conversion was done correctly if you can't spot stuff like, dodgy wiring, hacked firewall for the clutch master cyl etc, yourself.

The auto's aren't a bad thing, they're very reliable, but they're not great for nearly all things that involve spirited driving. ?

  • 1 month later...
240pepper Newbie

240pepper

Posted
Posted
On 10/22/2006 at 9:14 PM, E_Lu-SHuN said:

Once all that is done You can bring it to a mechanic, What you can realise now that the rest of the work, will be like a clutch change in a manual. Dont let them tell you otherwise. The spigot bush in the auto may be time consuming but it shouldnt take more then 20 min to take out. The wiring is easy if you follow my diagram so dont let them use that excuse to charge that extra $$$

Bleeding the clutch is easy.. extra charge?

changing gear oil is simple

No mods to the gearbox cross member was done. It fitted in EXACTLY

The tailshaft WILL bolt on.

Make sure you have all 9 bolts for the pressure plate to flywheel. If you dont have it then you might want to ask NISSAN for it.

You can remove the speed sensor on the autobox. The connector is next to the plenum. Just follow the wiring and unplug it

All up the conversion from the workshop cost $300 and under 5 hours. That was cheap considering i supplied EVERYTHING but just set the budget to $500 for the conversion, just in case.

Here are a series of pics during the conversion

PICT0005.JPG

PICT0004.JPG

PICT000333.JPG

PICT0018.JPG

( undoing the torque convertor 4 bolts)

PICT0021.JPG

PICT0025.JPG

PICT0028.JPG

(Auto GB flywheel)

PICT0030.JPG

PICT0035.JPG

(We had to cut the spigot bush because greasing it was not working NOTE: Rear main seal was still fine)

PICT0036.JPG

PICT0038.JPG

PICT003999.JPG

PICT0026666.JPG

( auto box out)

PICT0050.JPG

PICT0037.JPG

(manual flywheel bolted on. ALL bolts tightened to correct torque settings)

PICT0048.JPG

(bearing getting replaced)

PICT0046.JPG

(starting from left to right, reverse switch, Neutural Switch, and speedo signal)

PICT0051.JPG

(scattered bolts for bellhousing and pressure plate)

PICT0052.JPG

PICT0057777.JPG

( manual gearbox bolts on with the original holes for the gearbox cross member)

How do I view images ?

  • 4 months later...
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  • 4 months later...
Chereboy Apprentice

Chereboy

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, didn't was to start a new thread as it would be excellent to have this information on this one for future and current users.
I'm converting my 2001 R34 Gtt Sedan with a 1995 R33 Gtst Gearbox and all parts from that car.
I've been given a wiring loom and I know which cables go to the transmission as they are obvious and I have plugged in on one of the photos.
I'm not sure about any of the other plugs though, I have yet to pull the dash off and connect the break pedal and clutch pedal.
Are all these plugs something I will figure out quite easily when everything is pulled apart or is going in blind a bad idea, do I even need to use half the plugs on the loom?
Thanks guys and Happy New Year

20210102_093657.jpg

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