Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which wrecker? I know the big Nissan / Toyota / "every Jap car" wreckers in Clayton had a S2 a while ago.

The extractors probably won't hurt. As for the camshaft, the 260C was just a Joe Average family saloon. The cam won't be anything to write home about. Probably wouldn't pull the skin off a cold rice pudding.

If you are after camshafts, you really need the 240Z shafts, or maybe a 260Z. Have a chat to Lindsay at Z Shop in Glen Iris - he's bound to have heaps of them.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 201
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A few more parts are starting to pop up....

my mate has a mr30 with a L24et... and he says its an import engine??

he bought it 2 years ago and hardly used it (it was going to be his project)

Anyway (depending on my finances and the condition of it all as i havent seen it yet)

he is selling it to me, complete and running (5sp) with a whole other mr30sedan ( l24e) as a spare!

For $1800....

Now the next question is how do i get it from Canberra to Melb? a trailer?

this is only a plan as i have not seen it or heard it running yet. just seeing if its worth driving all the way up there yet...

OR

Get one of you guys to check it out for me???

its too good to pass up, 2x 5 speed mr30's and one's a turbo... for under $2000

Edited by MAG86

aNOTHER QUESTION.

I have found a wrecked 300ZX turbo, i am hopefully getting the turbo off it, and i was looking at the diff ( only briefly) and its MASSIVE an R230... 230mm means its a nissan 9 inch doesnt it? does anyone know if the are an LSD, and would it be an option for my MR30?? ( as i can get it chap as chips...)

aNOTHER QUESTION.

I have found a wrecked 300ZX turbo, i am hopefully getting the turbo off it, and i was looking at the diff ( only briefly) and its MASSIVE an R230... 230mm means its a nissan 9 inch doesnt it? does anyone know if the are an LSD, and would it be an option for my MR30?? ( as i can get it chap as chips...)

It is my understanding the R230 diff is the viscous LSD short nose and is not suitable for the R30, but if it's an R200 long nose mechanical it should be fine, BUT what you going to use for half shafts?

VG30 turbine assembly will be far to big for your L24 and be laggy as!

Cheers, D

It is my understanding the R230 diff is the viscous LSD short nose and is not suitable for the R30, but if it's an R200 long nose mechanical it should be fine, BUT what you going to use for half shafts?

VG30 turbine assembly will be far to big for your L24 and be laggy as!

Cheers, D

yeah...

i knew half shafts would be a problem... i may aswell keep saving for the r200 L mech...

didnt you reccomend a vg30 turbo not too long ago?? im getting confused!

yeah...

i knew half shafts would be a problem... i may aswell keep saving for the r200 L mech...

didnt you reccomend a vg30 turbo not too long ago?? im getting confused!

I'm using a VG30 hi flo but on L28 that is likely to be about 2960cc.

I think an RB25 would be better suited to the L24 but cost plays a big part. If you get the VG30 for a song, make sure it has virtually zero free play in the shaft, because if it doesn't the rebuild cost can be astronomical.

If it was me and the VG cost SFA I would put up with some lag.

Cheers, D

I have found out there are 2(?) kinds of L20et ECU's

One has a long plug, and the other has 2 smaller plugs,

Is this true?

And which one should i be looking for?

Cheers,

Andrew

The L20E ECU has the long single plug, identical to L24E & the L20ET had 2 smaller plugs, same as L28ET ECU's.

Let me get home on Thursday and I will take some pics of both types and post them, so you know more.

Cheers, D (Ghostrider)

The L20E ECU has the long single plug, identical to L24E & the L20ET had 2 smaller plugs, same as L28ET ECU's.

Let me get home on Thursday and I will take some pics of both types and post them, so you know more.

Cheers, D (Ghostrider)

two smaller plugs ? Mine has three all up

i better be careful with what i look for then...

i will request a part number from seller, to clarify.

someone told me R31 disks and calipers are an easy fit to the R30, is this true?

i read something about toyota hilux fit too,

I know the breaks i have now will NOT be enough with a turbo setup...

i better be careful with what i look for then...

i will request a part number from seller, to clarify.

someone told me R31 disks and calipers are an easy fit to the R30, is this true?

i read something about toyota hilux fit too,

I know the breaks i have now will NOT be enough with a turbo setup...

Put discs on the rear and all will be honky dory. Your going to need my HR30 master cylinder and a Ti hatch rear end. That's trailing arms and rotors & calipers & hand brake cables.

I had an engineered L24ET in NSW and the 4W Disc Brakes were considered adequate unless of course your planning racing this gadget and then it's an all new can of worms and lots of dollars.

Cheers, D (Ghostrider)

Holidaying in sunny Mt Tamborine

I think your right Stagefumer, but as I'm in Sunny Qld and not home I don't have mine to refer too.

Cheers, D

All good D. :laugh:

I can say, i might having my loom and ecu up for grabs at some point, as im planning to going with a LEM g3 unit.

Put discs on the rear and all will be honky dory. Your going to need my HR30 master cylinder and a Ti hatch rear end. That's trailing arms and rotors & calipers & hand brake cables.

I had an engineered L24ET in NSW and the 4W Disc Brakes were considered adequate unless of course your planning racing this gadget and then it's an all new can of worms and lots of dollars.

Cheers, D (Ghostrider)

Holidaying in sunny Mt Tamborine

I already have a Ti Hatch! It has disks all round yes, I was just unsure about insurance or engineering etc...

The reason the brakes feel so crap is the master cyl. is leaking, and i guess it could do with some good pads.

I found this the other day, sounds pretty interesting...

This guy got his LPG L24et running some serious figures...(and killed that many parts its almost funny)

http://homepages.picknowl.com.au/wardr/ <----- SAVE THIS PAGE, VERY GOOD READING

"...I have put in KYB front inserts from a z31 300ZX and a standard KYB R31 rear shocks. This has brought the car lower by 30mm which is almost un-noticeable, and improved the handling substantially. I also added a strut brace of my own design. The difference was astounding.

I also needed a brake upgrade, and with that a wheel increase to accommodate the larger diameter discs. A visit to my local Datsun/Nissan wrecker had a set of R31 discs and callipers in hand for $130. These fitted straight on, after a precautionary rebuild, without modification. A chance call into Jap Parts at St Marys had my eye firmly fixed on a set of 15 inch Skyline R32 non turbo 11 spoke rims. As these are 4 stud rear wheel drive they would bolt straight on. My decision was made easier when the price was cheaper to buy these rims (with tyres) than to replace the 195 x 75 x 14 tyres on the car!...." END QUOTE

And keep us posted Stagefumer, I have some things lined up, but it all takes time.

Let me know FIRST ok!

oh and the L24et Sedan in Canberra, well i got someone to check it out, it was all a big rush...

But the car looks shagged, the engine looks like a 'whack it together and see' kinda job

no way is it worth $1800, 324,000km plus... ripped out interior...the paint is cracked, faded, and scratched beyond repair... cracked windscreen, ITS A SHITBOX....

but i still wantsome engine parts, but i can jsut fork out all that cash right now, especially since i cant do shit with the body etc

If anyone wants to crack a deal with me for sure... its got a 5speed which is a plus...and a 2.5 inch exhaust ( which is melting the cv boot )

attatched is a pic of my hatch, which i payed $400 for (AND IS SUPRISINGLY QUICK FOR AN AUTO!)

, then his sedan, which he wants $1800 (and i only want some of the parts....)

post-32896-1169590498.jpg

post-32896-1169590851.jpg

post-32896-1169590975.jpg

post-32896-1169591521.jpg

post-32896-1169591880.jpg

100_5083.MOV

Edited by MAG86
I already have a Ti Hatch! It has disks all round yes, I was just unsure about insurance or engineering etc...

The reason the brakes feel so crap is the master cyl. is leaking, and i guess it could do with some good pads.

I found this the other day, sounds pretty interesting...

This guy got his LPG L24et running some serious figures...(and killed that many parts its almost funny)

http://homepages.picknowl.com.au/wardr/ <----- SAVE THIS PAGE, VERY GOOD READING

"...I have put in KYB front inserts from a z31 300ZX and a standard KYB R31 rear shocks. This has brought the car lower by 30mm which is almost un-noticeable, and improved the handling substantially. I also added a strut brace of my own design. The difference was astounding.

I also needed a brake upgrade, and with that a wheel increase to accommodate the larger diameter discs. A visit to my local Datsun/Nissan wrecker had a set of R31 discs and callipers in hand for $130. These fitted straight on, after a precautionary rebuild, without modification. A chance call into Jap Parts at St Marys had my eye firmly fixed on a set of 15 inch Skyline R32 non turbo 11 spoke rims. As these are 4 stud rear wheel drive they would bolt straight on. My decision was made easier when the price was cheaper to buy these rims (with tyres) than to replace the 195 x 75 x 14 tyres on the car!...." END QUOTE

And keep us posted Stagefumer, I have some things lined up, but it all takes time.

Let me know FIRST ok!

oh and the L24et Sedan in Canberra, well i got someone to check it out, it was all a big rush...

But the car looks shagged, the engine looks like a 'whack it together and see' kinda job

no way is it worth $1800, 324,000km plus... ripped out interior...the paint is cracked, faded, and scratched beyond repair... cracked windscreen, ITS A SHITBOX....

but i still wantsome engine parts, but i can jsut fork out all that cash right now, especially since i cant do shit with the body etc

If anyone wants to crack a deal with me for sure... its got a 5speed which is a plus...and a 2.5 inch exhaust ( which is melting the cv boot )

attatched is a pic of my hatch, which i payed $400 for (AND IS SUPRISINGLY QUICK FOR AN AUTO!)

, then his sedan, which he wants $1800 (and i only want some of the parts....)

This car you refer to is a friend of mine in Adelaide and I can tell you this, at 200kph on Braidwood Rd it goes like stink and stops marginally fair in my opinion, for the Dunnydore front brakes he has.

Cheers, D

Back home from hols in sunny Qld

I already have a Ti Hatch! It has disks all round yes, I was just unsure about insurance or engineering etc...

The reason the brakes feel so crap is the master cyl. is leaking, and i guess it could do with some good pads.

I found this the other day, sounds pretty interesting...

This guy got his LPG L24et running some serious figures...(and killed that many parts its almost funny)

http://homepages.picknowl.com.au/wardr/ <----- SAVE THIS PAGE, VERY GOOD READING

"...I have put in KYB front inserts from a z31 300ZX and a standard KYB R31 rear shocks. This has brought the car lower by 30mm which is almost un-noticeable, and improved the handling substantially. I also added a strut brace of my own design. The difference was astounding.

I also needed a brake upgrade, and with that a wheel increase to accommodate the larger diameter discs. A visit to my local Datsun/Nissan wrecker had a set of R31 discs and callipers in hand for $130. These fitted straight on, after a precautionary rebuild, without modification. A chance call into Jap Parts at St Marys had my eye firmly fixed on a set of 15 inch Skyline R32 non turbo 11 spoke rims. As these are 4 stud rear wheel drive they would bolt straight on. My decision was made easier when the price was cheaper to buy these rims (with tyres) than to replace the 195 x 75 x 14 tyres on the car!...." END QUOTE

And keep us posted Stagefumer, I have some things lined up, but it all takes time.

Let me know FIRST ok!

oh and the L24et Sedan in Canberra, well i got someone to check it out, it was all a big rush...

But the car looks shagged, the engine looks like a 'whack it together and see' kinda job

no way is it worth $1800, 324,000km plus... ripped out interior...the paint is cracked, faded, and scratched beyond repair... cracked windscreen, ITS A SHITBOX....

but i still wantsome engine parts, but i can jsut fork out all that cash right now, especially since i cant do shit with the body etc

If anyone wants to crack a deal with me for sure... its got a 5speed which is a plus...and a 2.5 inch exhaust ( which is melting the cv boot )

attatched is a pic of my hatch, which i payed $400 for (AND IS SUPRISINGLY QUICK FOR AN AUTO!)

, then his sedan, which he wants $1800 (and i only want some of the parts....)

If it was me i would buy the sedan and swap the turbo gear off the sedan motor onto your hatch motor and then put the hatch motor in the sedan but thats just me and i prefer sedans.

Lately there have been L24ET's poping up all ova Adelaide there's a guy on the R31 club who has a mate thats got a L24ET MR30 sedan and there was also a L24ET C210 in the trader

2007011405126fk.th.jpg

2007011404722ma.th.jpg

I have found out there are 2(?) kinds of L20et ECU's

One has a long plug, and the other has 2 smaller plugs,

Is this true?

And which one should i be looking for?

Cheers,

Andrew

Andrew,

The pics below are fairly straight forward, The single ECU is from an L24E and it's the same as an L20E, or an L28E and has a single long plug, same as your own now!

The tandem pic shows L20ET on top, and L28ET on the bottom and it has as Stagefumer says 3 plugs in total, as the long section on the ECU is split in the middle if you look closely.

It's these ECU's that your looking for, but only if you wish to stay stock looking. If you want to do the mod thing, just use an a/mkt ECU and none of it's necessary, not even the idle valves as it is all controlled by the new programmable ECU.

Cheers, D

IF anyones interested, I have the copies of the A/Mkt Turboed Engineers report for L24ET. If you want a copy PM me and I'll send you a copy in the mail.

No Scanner connected as yet so can't get it on here.

Cheers, D

If it was me i would buy the sedan and swap the turbo gear off the sedan motor onto your hatch motor and then put the hatch motor in the sedan but thats just me and i prefer sedans.

The turbo set up in the Canberra car is a bit agricultural, in my opinion.

I think it can be done a lot neater than that example.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...