Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 157
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Dyno graphs will prove your claims, so get them up, surely you must have at least one graph after all the GTR's you've done??

i tune for a hobby, usually for free to mates and people who have 'interesting' setups that intrigue me, the dyno's graphs go with the owners not with me, as i posted earlier i will post up graphs once the new tailshaft is sorted.

In what way are they 'far' better??

I have results showing otherwise, with a big difference in midrange... bush bearing turbos versus twin ballbearing turbos....

For example, at 128km/h in fourth gear, my car was making around 160rwkws with the T517Z's(8cm), and with the 2860r-5 is now making 240rwkws....

I know which setup I'd prefer.... :P

Care to show us your comparison????

Go to post #29 in this thread for mine....

graph up 2moro, finally got some roller time (car is still playing up so it is only a 14.4psi run and making only 286rwkw-odd at the rears)

but at 120kmh it is making nearly 80-100 rwkw more than yours did from memory....

but at 120kmh it is making nearly 80-100 rwkw more than yours did from memory....

LOL, maybe its all those years of experience you have in tuning and building rb26's...for free....

LOL, maybe its all those years of experience you have in tuning and building rb26's...for free....

HAHA you a bit cut? i dont claim to be an expert but your car just seems "flat" by your descriptions especially compared to our results, i cant be held for your cars shortcomings.

Edited by URAS
HAHA you a bit cut? i dont claim to be an expert but your car just seems "flat" by your descriptions especially compared to our results, i cant be held for your cars shortcomings.

Hardly....

I don't get cut from people who make claims without backing them up, it just proves my assumptions of them... :D

You claim that the T517's are much better than the 2860R's that you have tuned in the past, I asked to see a comparison, assuming that you actually have tested both... still waiting....

I'm discussing my comparison with facts, your just talking out of 'insert YOUR username here'.....

Prove me wrong so the discussion can continue with merrit....

Will have to go back to Ben from Racepace and tell him he's not doing a good job on my car.. ;)

That is all....

HAHA you a bit cut? i dont claim to be an expert but your car just seems "flat" by your descriptions especially compared to our results, i cant be held for your cars shortcomings.

yeh get some results up,interested to see if i wasted money on 2860r...lol

i paid 2 much.could have got them cheaper...but i reckon from your results im gunna be more than happy with the 2860r even tho i paid more than most

dyno sheet at 14.2psi and still with issues

hmmm i seem to see 210rwkw at 120kmh...... with -6 degrees timing over the whole map. No doubt there is another 10-15rwkw hidden in there once ive found the breaking down issue.

post-34927-1177465301.jpg

Edited by URAS

jack makes 240rwkw at 128km/h or 4570rpm

yours makes 230rwkw at 128km/h

sort out the misfire then we'll see how it looks

also this is in a rwd chassis? so take out some 4wd drive loss on jacks setup

dyno sheet at 14.2psi and still with issues

hmmm i seem to see 210rwkw at 120kmh...... with -6 degrees timing over the whole map. No doubt there is another 10-15rwkw hidden in there once ive found the breaking down issue.

looks very similar to the standard turbo response.

looks very similar to the standard turbo response.

exactly.... wind in more boost and they will happily support 380rwkw..... which is my whole point (excellent response yet able to support good top end).

The same tune as above with std dumps, -6 degrees and fat mixtures 10.8:1 A/F pulled 328rwkw at 17psi.... (i would expect another 20rwkw easily with 12.0:1 and more timing). i would post the graph but i could not get a clean run without the missfire gremlin, next week i will run it up again.

But road speed can be misleading. What is the final drive of each respective car and the gearboxes they are running, also tyre size. You could be looking at large rpm differences .

LOL. Im amazed you folk let me get away with my silly RB20 remark. The gearing in my car means im pulling much higher rpm for a given road speed then you guys...hence why i have similar power at the road speed in the earlier example :(

But road speed can be misleading. What is the final drive of each respective car and the gearboxes they are running, also tyre size. You could be looking at large rpm differences .

LOL. Im amazed you folk let me get away with my silly RB20 remark. The gearing in my car means im pulling much higher rpm for a given road speed then you guys...hence why i have similar power at the road speed in the earlier example :(

GTR diff and R34 box (box ratios are the same), diff ratios are actually a little differrent as we run 3.9 instead instead of 4.11 which is std GTR ratio (which would actually disadvantage us comparison wise), it use to run 4.373 but it was too short with the GTT box. tyre size is 235/45/17

Edited by URAS
  • 4 months later...

Well i read every single post so far.

From what you guys have said and dyno sheets etc etc i am going with!

Garrett 2860R-5's

Stainless Steel Manifolds

Stainless Steel Dumps

With my supporting mods of

tomei 260 9.15 cams

700cc sard injectors

3.5" exhaust + highflow cat

K N filters

Hybrid intercooler

Blitz SBC - i color

Sard Fuel Reg

Boch 044

R32 ECU retuned

I should easily pull 300KW+ at 16psi give or take

The main difference between the HKS and garrett turbos is the wheel design. They are compressor and turbine may be the same sizes etc but the HKS wheels are upgraded to induce more air etc

  • 1 month later...
I think the point to take away is that the std manifolds are crap for anything over 350rwkw and definately do not improve response over the chinese ebay stainless mainfolds

517Z's, 2860R, HKSGT2530@24psi and my 2860R on std manifolds@26psi

At 95km/h, 85kw 95kw 90kw 85kw

At 112km/h, 105kw 140kw 130kw 130kw

At 128km/h, 155kw 240kw 200kw 200kw

At 145km/h, 255kw 305kw 296kw 317kw

At 160km/h, 330kw 325kw 315kw 350kw

At 178km/h, 360kw 350kw 355kw 361kw

At 194km/h, 365kw 358kw 372kw Chart stops

I do have a chart that keeps going and power drops off after 178km/h as does boost also....down from 26psi to 24psi at 200km/h The drop in boost starts at 169km/h at the 350kw mark. The 2530's with the stainless manifolds did not drop boost at all.

Full Boost is also made at identical points compared to the 2530's (134km/h)

As a real life comparison.

In 4th

2000rpm starts to make +ve boost

3500rpm .5bar

4050rpm 1bar

Does anyone have a comparison for 2530's ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...