Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Who has dyno print outs to support these claims, id like to see some concrete evidence.

If you have them post them up.

i have the GTR proof that shows it is just as capable. i wont go as far as saying one is better than the other because i do both and both do the job admirably.... what i dont accept is people rubbishing the EMU and making rash statements that it wont match PFC.... cause i see it it match pfc all day everyday. Proof in the pudding is greddys 1000ps emu powered GTR.

  • Replies 765
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mt Isa ???

Geez mate who out there has been swayed away from Power FC

But yeah Ill take you up on that offer for sure

Do you have any idea as to when you may be heading up as it is already almost later in the year

Ive still gotta get my injectors and Poncams before the tuning starts

but if you head up before the poncams then so be ill tune without them

And a MAP sensor=)

Are there inputs so I can get signal from afr and egt etc?

Can I shange the boost with it?

Are the original knock sensor good?

how much do greddy map sensors cost? assuming they don't come with the 'kits' supplied by Slide?

to get the afr you need the afr adapter kit, but that also means you need a wideband o2 sensor.

hang on what's afr adapter kit and when do you need it? + wideband o2 sensor!?? sheesh, maybe this whole affair isn't really cheaper than a power fc

meaning ur able to use a wideband too see if the car is lean or rich. the adapoter ables to read from the wideband o2 to do data loging. the innovate ones are bout 600 i think???

does anyone know what settings to use to get a signal off the knock sensor?

what board is yours (little letter on the top of the circuit board) is it (d) (e) etc? only the later boards have knock display.

hang on what's afr adapter kit and when do you need it? + wideband o2 sensor!?? sheesh, maybe this whole affair isn't really cheaper than a power fc

you need the same thing to tune a PFC..... if you not tuning it dont bother as you tuner has one.

mine had an (E) on it.

sweet and is the serial over 4500? if so all you need to do is use the settings in that RB26 file i sent you as it is perfect for RB's :P non-resonant (7.02 kHz)

sweet and is the serial over 4500? if so all you need to do is use the settings in that RB26 file i sent you as it is perfect for RB's :P non-resonant (7.02 kHz)

whats 'over 4500' mean? where do i find out?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...