Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

update .

been drifting for over a year now . no issues . fully locked . no noises ever just tyres doing there thing .

Great to hear!

I picked up some shims on the weekend, grabbed a pair of 1.1 and a pair of 1.49, going to shim up my old 32gtst diff and chuck it in the wagoon :happy:

  • 4 weeks later...

shimmed my diff added 0.6mm and now its locked :blink: damn it

up from 1.1 and 0.8 to 1.4 and 1.1, thinking i might pull it apart and go back to original as i dont think this will work for hillclimbs :bunny:

(not sure if its locked 100% but it seems to be ie skips a little on tar.)

Edited by Tiop

I recently Shimmed up my stock diff in my R33 and it works a treat. I increased my overall shim size by 20%. I had a 0.8mm and 1.20mm shims in my center. I replace these with a 1.01mm and a 1.40mm. Seems to be better and is not locked too hard. Tight cornering doesn't make the wheel skip. I think that i could have went a little more shim just to get a bit better result, but seems to be not too bad. I had very little difficulty getting the diff center back into the housing with this amount of shim. :)

I used 50% extra shim on my 200sx and that ended up being locked solid. Also i had a hard time getting the diff center back into the housing.

Based on my experiences now, if i was to do this again i would aim for 25-30% extra shim than the stock.

PS: it is possible to undo the rear mounting bolts on the diff housing, without removing the HICAS motor unit. I just used uni joints on my socket set.

i added 1.49mm shims to both sides, the car is very predictable now, hasnt singled once, mind you it was a locker at the start, but now 6months later is just PERFECT, awesome cheap mod

  • 4 weeks later...

Had my diff guy install the LSD centre out of my 32gtst that I shimmed up, in to the Stageas housing.

Upon opening the diff, discovered it had a 0.8mm on one side and 1.4mm on the other, I replaced these with 1.49mm on both sides.

It's pretty tight, can feel it doing it's thing similar to the 2-way in my skyline but not as harsh.

Very predictable now, the open centre in 2WD mode was just downright scary! The mrs hopes it wears in and stops skipping though hehe

Sorry jet2nv, can't help there but I feel I must report on the results of my shimming..

Now the car was originally open centre but I did have this diff in my 32 before I replaced it with a 2-way. When it was in the 32 it was getting tired and liked to open up.

Now shimmed up and in the wagon, it's awesome! Lots of fun times since installing a week ago, is gradually getting less hrash and I have been punishing it quite severely. Time will tell how the shims wear but hopefully it doesn't start opening up anytime soon.

Excellent bang for buck mod, cost me $200 more than it should but that's because I was swapping the carrier in to a new housing, I felt I should get it set up properly as it's my daily driver.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Just posting up my own experiences as I've done a couple of these diffs now..

My own 33, approx 120,00km, diff would always open wheel. Put in 1x1.49mm + the stock shims, diff would lock on long wide corners but after 2 or so skids when the oil is warm it would again open wheel. Now have 2x1.49mm and have taken 1 stock shim out, diff stays locked a little longer but not much different. Next step is 3x1.49, this would be way over kill for most people but clearly my diff is stuffed.

Another 33 diff around the same age, put in 1x1.49 and it was completely locked. Took out one of the stock shims now the diff locks well and realiably.

  • 5 weeks later...

Does anyone know the outer/inner diameter of the shim so that i can make my own in a lathe?

just buy them from Nissan, like $6 or something, pretty sure the metal would cost more than that if you made them yourself, plus there's a possibility of stuffing it up.

hi guys, instead of making a new thread ill just post in here since its relevant

i purchased a diff some time ago, and it shudders and chirps the inside wheel when turning sharply as one of the posters said earlier, could this indicate it has been shimmed?

the shudder is quite dirty/messy and painfull to deal with.

Sounds more like a stupid basically locked 2 way mech lsd, take it to a diff shop and I am sure they can take some preload out of it, most likely in the form of shims.

Never under stood the point in getting a 2 way lsd that is so tight it chirps around corners.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...