Jump to content
SAU Community

Fixing Your Single Spinning Diff!

Mavric

By Mavric,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mavric Grand Master

Mavric

Posted
Posted

A few weeks ago I had my R33 Skyline Diff Shimmed By Ray at RE Customs.

Prior to this my diff would always single spin, so I was looking for a solution to this.

My original thought was to buy either a 1.5 Caz diff or I was also looking into the Nismo 2way.. Both of the mentioned diffs were approx $1500 - $2500 installed so some big dollars.

After speaking to Ray about some possible options he suggested that I could add “shims” to my original single wheeling Nissan Diff to tighten it back up and all for a very affordable price. (Under $400)

The diff can be tightened up using various shims in the diff as per the list bellow:

0.80mm

0.85mm

0.90mm

1.01mm

1.05mm

1.10mm

1.20mm

1.30mm

1.40mm

1.49mm

Based on the selected shim you get a various desired tightness to the diff.

I asked ray to make my diff tight so it was something similar to a 1.5 – 2way Diff.

This was achieved by placing 2 shims additional to the original ones (1 on each side) 1.10mm thick to the diff.

This in turn has come close to locking my diff.

All I can say is its fantastic!!! This is also a very cheap option to fixing a single spinning Diff, and I highly recommend it to those who are sick of a single spinning diff and want a cheap replacement and fix.

I will also add that I am not one for doing things cheap but this does not appear to have any bad affects and is still using the original Nissan gear.

I took the car for a drive on the weekend and through some tight corners

Felt like it was on train tracks. The whole car now feels extremely stable so it has certainly been a viable performance upgrade.

If you’re interested in having this done to your car, speak to Ray at Re Customs and he’ll be able to give you a price and book you in if interested.

Re Customs - 9548 3414

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164346-fixing-your-single-spinning-diff/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

i wonder how it would work on the vspec diff

as i can lock my diff on demand via a switch

so it could be a tight locker on demand

the problem i found with my one is that its a weak lock when it does

hmmm thinking to do...

Coupe-This Grand Master

Coupe-This

Posted
Posted

shims arent a good way to tighten a diff :P

speak to a good reputable diff specialist n he should refuse todo it

i heard this, looked into it, asked for it to be done almost got sworn at... said a good set up tightened lsd shouldnt need to get shimmed ...

so perhaps look into doin a job properly :O

or ...

just weld it up and be done with it ... chirpy chirpy chirpy

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
From what I've read it lasts about 2 weeks....
shims arent a good way to tighten a diff :D

Really?

Racepace did mine years and years ago now. Before i pulled my car off for the RB26 motor conversion.

The diff did approx 12,000km's (9-10 months) which included lots of burnouts @ the drags as i was racing every 2nd or 3rd week :)

Lots of dyno work, street duties any anything else you car to think of.

Certainly worked ok if you ask me :cheers:

RPMGTR Community Regular

RPMGTR

Posted
Posted
Really?

Racepace did mine years and years ago now. Before i pulled my car off for the RB26 motor conversion.

The diff did approx 12,000km's (9-10 months) which included lots of burnouts @ the drags as i was racing every 2nd or 3rd week :)

Lots of dyno work, street duties any anything else you car to think of.

Certainly worked ok if you ask me :cheers:

We dont just shim it, Ash.....:D

We re-machine it, add more clutch plates (most important) and then reshim... they then work really well and last.....

cheers

Ben

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
We dont just shim it, Ash.....:cheers:

We re-machine it, add more clutch plates (most important) and then reshim... they then work really well and last.....

cheers

Ben

Well, there you go.

This is why i pay you a great % of my pay each year :D

STOCKGTR Community Regular

STOCKGTR

Posted
Posted
We dont just shim it, Ash.....:cheers:

We re-machine it, add more clutch plates (most important) and then reshim... they then work really well and last.....

cheers

Ben

Is this similar to what you do to the transfer case in the GTR's? I hear from Jack that the re-shimming you did on his, did wonders for his handling on track.

Cheers.

Nick

adznight Newbie

adznight

Posted
Posted
We dont just shim it, Ash.....:)

We re-machine it, add more clutch plates (most important) and then reshim... they then work really well and last.....

cheers

Ben

Ben, any idea on what sort of $ are involved in this? I hate my single spinner! PM if you'd prefer.

BTW - Car is 100% after your work. Top job :)

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
We dont just shim it, Ash.....:)

We re-machine it, add more clutch plates (most important) and then reshim... they then work really well and last.....

cheers

Ben

hey ben

would it work the same for the vspec diff?

i have a switch to hard run the vspec pump so i can lock it on demand.

would shimming and changing the clutch in it make it really tight but only when the pump runs?

if so... can you quote a price? (or via pm)

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I shimmed my stock VLSD diff which worked well for getting the power down on corner exit BUT in a straight line in first gear the left wheel would always single leg it, second gear would have a slight squeel from usually the left wheel and when the diff was cold second gear would spin up a single wheel as first always would.

I eventually got sick of the lack of traction in first gear and picked up a well priced R32 GTST diff that runs a GTR/GTS4 mech center with nismo 5 bolt axles.

It handles 100% better than the shimmed diff, much much more predicatable. It gets the power down much better/smoother out of corners and no more single spinning through first.

At least now I have an incentive to throw on a set of good tyres. Last time I threw on a set of good toyo's the left rear tyre wore so so much quicker than the right. :)

Shimming the VLSD is good for drift; pretty much for nothing else unless you preload it to the point of the spider gears completely binding. May as well weld it. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...