Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Roy,

Tuning is on hold at the moment due to a few other expenses, The car is running and ready to go to the tuner I hope to have it booked in for the next fortnight.

I think from memory the squish was removes, Paul might be able to say yes or no as he was last to see it.

Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

If your looking for a good tuner go see Gavin Woods, i got mine tuned by him yesterday and he had the whole thing sorted in a few hours, and i was allowed in the dyno room to watch and see the whole process, you wont get ripped off either.

  • 5 months later...

Yep thats a must, here is a pic of block without cut out's post-7066-1182235297_thumb.jpg

Here's what its gotta look like when done post-7066-1182235422_thumb.jpg post-7066-1182235464_thumb.jpg

Pics arn't the best but you get the idea

Cheers Peter

Hello, i'm ian from Malaysia..

Sorry for the questions but i have search all around and takes me no where..Currently i'm on my project rebuilding my RB20 to RB24..and the prob is the stock connecting rod clearance issue..i have source out for info and few told me that after market RB25/26 rods such as Eagle will fit into RB20 blocks give u clearance around 2-3mm(??) or is it any after market rod will fit without any issue??regarding the photo given,the bottom block was cut, but this is for using with Eagle rods right??is there any measurement that i can refer to cut the bottom block since i'm using stock RB25/26 connecting rods..

sorry for my English..

Cheers..

Edited by ian_adzrin

Hi,

We didn't need to cut this recess for the rods to clear as the rods cleared with 3 - 4 mm to spare. We had all plans to machine them out but decided to dummy it up first just to make sure it was required - And it wasn't. I guess it depends on the rods you use.

On another note, The care visited Horsepower Solutions the other week for a run in tune, While on the dyno they noted an excessive amount of blow by - I told them to push through it to see if it cleared up which it did mostly however it is still there.

We decided to rip the engine out next week however now with the storms that hit Brisbane on Sunday and the 50mm hail that decided to pimple 3/4 of my daily and my missus car The build has again been put on hold.... Yay!

On basic run-in tune limited to 6000rpm and 11 - 12psi of snail power the car was making a very comfy 230~kw at the rear wheels on BP 98. Once I try get some cash together "again" I'll strip her down and check for issues before putting some larger injectors in an seeing what she goes like on E85 and 30psi.

As I think someone said earlier **rattles tin**

Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...