Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well.... It's been a busy week, After starting the sump removal process to find oil dripping out the bottom of the gearbox/Clutch cover I decided to pull the motor out and investigate what appears to be the rear main seal leaking.

After the missus telling me to send the motor to somsone who knows what they are doing, I took her up on the offer :( Who could say no to that sort of permission given....

Engine is now on its way to Red R Racing for Paul to have his way with :(

Oh and I found the oil leak, one of the Half Moon Cam Cover seals had fallen/blown out...

Edited by murrayis
Thanks for everyones suggestions, I will take a look at all of them. I'm thinking of also seeing If I can fit the OEM shorud and Fan back on and maybe trim the blades to clear... Just a thought.

sorry for the late reply, here are my results to a 52mm radiator in a rb20 r32. Hope it helps.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/52...st-t327859.html

Well.... It's been a busy week, After starting the sump removal process to find oil dripping out the bottom of the gearbox/Clutch cover I decided to pull the motor out and investigate what appears to be the rear main seal leaking.

After the missus telling me to send the motor to somsone who knows what they are doing, I took her up on the offer :D Who could say no to that sort of permission given....

Engine is now on its way to Red R Racing for Paul to have his way with :P

Oh and I found the oil leak, one of the Half Moon Cam Cover seals had fallen/blown out...

R31 House do an aluminium replacement for the rear half moon cam cover seals. Cheap cheap too!

  • 2 weeks later...

was over at Red R today and had a squizz at your stripped engine, its a bit of a disaster. How the previous machinist chopped up your block was insane. The reliefs cut in the base of the bores with no chamfer has given your piston skirts a hiding and the way the annular groove in the block bearing housing has been done is very messy. From what Paul said it didn't matter how many times this thing was rebuilt, using that block would have quickly destroyed it.

mate looks like a new block, but it appears the crank has survived the carnage and the fella's said it should be ok to use.

i feel your pain as i had a couple of disaster builds before Paul and Terry helped me out. She's in good hands bud.

Edited by blitzxtr

Yeh, beauty of RB20s are that a different block may be free, or $150 or so. :P

Curious to see how Paul goes with the lil RB24. His experience with head porting and playing with different things makes him the perfect guy for a little project like this. So many people I have spoken to re building a 24 just dismiss it and make me want to do it myself..no love for the project :bunny: But I know i dont have the know how....its good to see builders with an interest and pride in what they are doing, hopefully Camerons thing punches out numbers adn exceeds his expectations

Roy,

Exactly my thinking.... If you have a spare rb20 block let me know...

In a midnight conversation with Paul the other night we are thinking 360 - 400kw with the limitation being the flow in the head, The head is already ported so nothing new will be done to it.

Now all I have to do is wait for ROSS Piston to get back to me about the new piston rings & we can get the ball rolling.

Yes I saw said 9800cc engine Saturday night! whoa.......

Things have been delayed a little as I am currently hiding in the mountains of Queenstown for a week while waiting for Ross Pistons to ship a new set of piston rings anf trying to find a new block!

No car pics to update however these may surfice!

Outlook from the snow base:

2r5c5s5.jpg

Halfway down the mountain:

2ekjfvk.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...