Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a few bolt on mods to my R33 and its gettting very bad Fuel economy,

Im only getting 280km per tank on 98 octane, and to top it off its running like crap cos its not tuned for the new setup.

Question I have is how far can I expect to go after I get the new 2835 fitted and tuned at around 260rwkw or so.

Highway and around town figures if ya now what you get???? Or litres per 100 would be good.

Mine is getting 14L/100kms on flat road at 110kmph............

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177634-how-far-can-you-go/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's terrible fuel economy! I get about 400ks to a tank these days, but most people will say it all depends on how heavy your foot is!! Driving over to Perth from Qld I got about 580ks to my best tank, but my lowest has been just over 300. (Had 2 cruises in 2 nights hehe)

im lucky to see 300kms to a tank....!

highway i reckon i could just squeeze 400 out of a tank but i dont do that much highway... and i LOVE boost!

Try Resetting your ECU by disconnecting it and leaving it overnight... the ECU will self learn and possibly pick up your mods a touch better.... hence better economy.....

im lucky to see 300kms to a tank....!

highway i reckon i could just squeeze 400 out of a tank but i dont do that much highway... and i LOVE boost!

Try Resetting your ECU by disconnecting it and leaving it overnight... the ECU will self learn and possibly pick up your mods a touch better.... hence better economy.....

easier and quicker way is to take of ur negative terminal on the battery then hold down the brake peddle for about 1min (this just drains all remaining power out of the system) then put the negitive terminal back on, turn the car on and let it run for about 2mins on idle (this is auto adjust it as far as it can with stock limitations). This isnt gonna solve ur problem but it should help

Quigga

it really annoys me when people say "i got xxxkms to a tank". how many litres did you use? i can get an extra 50kms out of a tank by driving round for ages with the fuel light on. it doesn't mean i got any better fuel economy.

turbo dave: 14L/100km is pretty bad for highway driving. i got 10L/100km out of mine, but it was stock turbo. but then i would get 17L/100km round town.

have you tried changing your o2 sensor to see if that helps?

Im looking forward to fitting my 2835 to my RB20!

Highway driving is gonna be awesome! Well thats how im imagining it..... Since its gonna be a alot laggier than stock... So hopefully it will sit off boost @ 110 and be off boost in the city driving.

But thats an RB20 and yours is a 25.... Id be saying you could easily achieve more from that turbo with a RB25.... Im aiming for 260 with my RB20

I used to average 300km in my 32 IF i was lucky... Oddly enough the faster i went the less it would use..... Eg. 290km trip @ 110 had to refuel, same trip back @ 160km/h (1am in the morning) most of the way i still had almost 1/4 tank left

Edited by MADGT4

It really really depends on how heavy your foot is.

I was born with a lead right foot, so my car hardly ever sees over 300 to about 45 L.

With the bigger turbo, driving around town, it should be harder to get on boost, so if you're trying to drive economically, it should use less petrol. The stock turbo goes on boost at the lightest touch of throttle, or up the slightest hill.

But on the other hand, the bigger turbo, plus fuel requirements means that when you give it some, it'll use more fuel, because it makes more power.

So in essence.... It depends on how you drive it

I get 10L/100 always. Aftermarket map sensor based ecu.

Runs less on the F3 everyday to work.. but more round town... always fill up around the same time.. always 40-45 litres

Although might change when I pick it up this week... was on 263rwkw... is now on 300+rwkw... :)

*edit* I also tend to have a heavy foot.. occasionally.... maybe... :thumbsup:

it really annoys me when people say "i got xxxkms to a tank". how many litres did you use? i can get an extra 50kms out of a tank by driving round for ages with the fuel light on. it doesn't mean i got any better fuel economy.

well, i once drove my old manual 1.3L 16V Charade for 180km around the sydney metro area after the fuel guage touched the 'E' mark. it sputtered as i was driving towards a servo, i pulled in, and it stopped just as i pulled up next to a bowser, and wouldn't start again until i got fuel :thumbsup:

don't know exactly what economy that meant for the full tank, but it was in the 7L/100km zone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...