Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive used 5000's many many times and never had any dramas.

Recently on a stock braked GTR the 4000's lasted about 3 months and never even seen the road before cracking.

We have 5000's on Greg's S15 and hauling the big RB26 time after time has not effected them in any way. My GTR has 355's fitted but wont be used till the oran park sprint in october.

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The previous owner had the DBA4000 rotors fitted before I bought it...

since then Ive lost count of how many track days/sprints I have done, yet for some reason my DBA4000's (i only have front fitted) seem to be going strong.

Is it cause I'm not driving "that" hard or i have no ducting?

From what I have seen and with people on here and other clubs/forums - 50% have said had they have had dramas with them and I havent...are mine about to go shizienhousen?(what are the signs to look for?)

If they are...what are the best upgrades from the DBA4000's?

(sorry for teh n00b questions!)

Cheers,

Chris

The previous owner had the DBA4000 rotors fitted before I bought it...

since then Ive lost count of how many track days/sprints I have done, yet for some reason my DBA4000's (i only have front fitted) seem to be going strong.

Is it cause I'm not driving "that" hard or i have no ducting?

From what I have seen and with people on here and other clubs/forums - 50% have said had they have had dramas with them and I havent...are mine about to go shizienhousen?(what are the signs to look for?)

If they are...what are the best upgrades from the DBA4000's?

(sorry for teh n00b questions!)

Cheers,

Chris

Then you aren't trying hard enough! :dry: Check the reutrn slots for the start of the cracking....

Upgrade - I would suggest Project Mu hatted rotors imported from either Nengun or Greenline. If not use the group buy for the RDA stuff. Failing that just use something that isn't a DBA4000 - pick something else from their range....

Try getting this sort of shit past the scrutineers - "Honest it is ok - it hasn't cracked ALL the way through"

post-5134-1191304753_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81

Actually, i cant check my rotors as they are still with DBA. But are the return slots always at the edge of the outer vane liek that. Being a a corner there is already a stress concentration there...they would be far better doing the return slot mid way between the bridge between the rotor faces

chris are yours slotted or plain? also possible DBA have changed their materials lately, despite people using dba 4000s for years it is only in the last 18 months we have heard about cracking

I'm running longlife slotted on the rear. no return slots, no cracks. I'm running a fairly ordinary rear pad too that wears out at the rate of 1 set/3 track days.

If you are using a set of rear pads in only 3 track days then they must have aprety low temp and fade as those are typically the properties of pads that wear quickly. This means they never really generate enough heat to really fatigue the rotor like much of the higher temp pads with better adherent friction properties.

chris are yours slotted or plain? also possible DBA have changed their materials lately, despite people using dba 4000s for years it is only in the last 18 months we have heard about cracking

Slotted Duncan.

Dino had them on the car when he owned it, so they have been there around 3 years plus?

djr - haha too true! not hard enough!! :bunny:

BTW I run non-slotted DBA4000 in the race car, no sign of cracking.

Thats why I bought the unslotted rotors. Then I can put the rotors up on the cnc mill and put the slots in where I want.

Actually, i cant check my rotors as they are still with DBA. But are the return slots always at the edge of the outer vane liek that. Being a a corner there is already a stress concentration there...they would be far better doing the return slot mid way between the bridge between the rotor faces

I don't think so, but I can't be sure.

post-5134-1191378878_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Well rack up a set of dead RDA rear rotors as well. I didnt expect much from them and true to form they are dead as well. There is no way the rears failed because of lack of proper warm up or cool down...but in the heat of action the temps just seem to go past the metallurgy of the rotor.

So, next set of rotors i am going to get ungrooved and machine my own slots...so sick of using these so called performance rotors that simply arent up to the task of stopping a car at the track :(

Well I will give the RDA's a try at the front of my thing early next month. I am getting well sick of continually chucking rotors at the thing when it won't stop well anyway.

Maybe the trick is to keep the slots well away from the edge of the rotor. Looks to be how the grown up brake companies groove theirs. Maybe someone can get a hold of some DBA blanks.

Actually there is a question. Other than the slots & the paint are the DBA 4000's any different to their poverty pack versions?

they claim they are 'heat treated' I'll give them some fking heat treating. my next set will be project mu or endless. I have a new set of RDA sitting here and will give them a crack but I'm not putting too much hope out there.

Yeh, they are no doubt nice rotors at home on the street. But as soon as you throw semi slicks at the car and accordingly throw a racey pad at the car to make use of that grip under brakes...well road rotors hate it. I think its cheaper to just get a competition rotor and be doen with it

Interesting read.....I have DBA5000's on the front and apart from some surface cracking I've had no issue.

I will be forced to upgrade my rear rotors soon....considering people have had problems with both RDA and DBA's can someone recommend a good rear rotor they have used?

Interesting to look at the slot design on the G4s, it appears quite sensible - the slots dont reach the edge, and are almost tangential near the edge as they curve around, so would spread the stress nicely.

g4brakekitcomplete.jpg

Interesting read.....I have DBA5000's on the front and apart from some surface cracking I've had no issue.

I will be forced to upgrade my rear rotors soon....considering people have had problems with both RDA and DBA's can someone recommend a good rear rotor they have used?

The DBA 5000 should be fine for the rears. Not sure about the hand brake though if you use that alot.

It appears only the 4000's cause problems. The 5000 slot pattern is different, ie doesn't extend to the edges.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...