Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So. Let the hate begin. New. Always been interested in cars since a very young age. Only 19, since owned 3 cars. A mirage. Great little car. Subura rx 2L non turbo. Never going back unless turbo sti. And finally just bought a r33 non turbo. Had a blown motor. Replaced it with second hand. Loving life. It's amazing.

Now, I still have my blown motor. If block and head are repairable. Thinking of building a mild n/a , a starting platform you could say. So was thinking.

20 thou over bore.

Light weight pistions and rods.

Standard crank.

Lighten flywheel.

Port and polished head.

Solid lifter conversion.

Upgraded valves and valve springs.

Big cam. Not sure on exact size yet

Hks adjustable cam gears.

Eliminate vct.

Set of headers. Full 2.5 inch headers back. Hi flow car etc etc.

after market front facing intake with 88mm throttle body.

Pod filter for shits and gigs and that +5hp.

Spilt fire coil packs.

And a haltech ecu plug and play.

And a 50-75 shot of nos.

meth injected.

And a cute little oil cooler.

Yes I know. Why not just turbo it ? Well because I don't see why everything has to forced induction. I don't see this as a bad starting point. And this isn't a everyday drive motor either. Just something I can have a bit of fun in.

The is more. Like deck head and block for 11.1 compression ratio over factory 10.1... I'm asking for your opinions. If it sounds good. Not. Don't bother etc etc. cause I will . I'm more interested in cam sizing options. And if there are other things in the motor I need to address. I can do most of the work myself. So don't go saying don't bother. I won't response or care on it.

Do it. Wasting money to hardly make power always makes me smile.

Why get rid if vct? So you can lose what little midrange you have?

In all seriousness the only sensible thing you suggested is using nitrous. Do that on a second hand engine. The rest is throwing money away.

Perhaps before deciding in building the engine, see if you can go for a drive in a mildly modded turbo.

  • Like 2

Is the n/a rb that unresponsive to modifications ? Wow... I knew they were bad but not this bad. What about cams and just full exhaust ? Like they must help some what ? I'm still getting plug and play ecu. And after market coil packs. Just for future purposes, seen some. Gutted interiors with buckets. Thinking of ditching interior. Got no need for it. I'm not after a people pleaser. XD

The is more. Like deck head and block for 11.1 compression ratio over factory 10.1... I'm asking for your opinions. If it sounds good. Not. Don't bother etc etc. cause I will . I'm more interested in cam sizing options. And if there are other things in the motor I need to address. I can do most of the work myself. So don't go saying don't bother. I won't response or care on it.

The issue with the engine that you need to address is that for what you will spend on an N.A. to make 200hp, you could buy a turbo engine and mod it to make 350hp+
  • 4 months later...

So with much thought and research im back with a vengeance [emoji23] just kidding got a few things to ask. And see what I get in response. Looking at upgrading tb to 90mm. A set of 272 duration and 9.1mm lift Kelford cans and there valve springs set to go with it. A nistune ecu. And most likely either r33 turbo injectors or slightly uprated injectors. Catback 2.5 inch exhaust.I'm curious. On what you think my power increase would be? My earlier post. Was me being a idiot. And not realising that street and race car don't mix. Yes i am going turbo. But I wanted to explore a bit more of the n/a power before so. Either way. Theses few little upgrades go hand in hand with a turbo aswell. Do you think it's quite possible to reach 140hp ? Considering most stock n/a are at about 95-100hp

You'll get a lot more enjoyment chasing response and sound from an NA than trying to make that extra 5kw - Chasing power with NA's gets really expensive really quickly

As much as i love a high revving NA engine screaming it's head off, i don't feel RB is the best base to start, something like a 4AGE would yield better results/$

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...