Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Copy and paste from earlier in the thread, you will have quite alot of shockproof left over if only doing both diffs:

Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre]

Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres]

haha nahh I'm doing all the gears. So 4.1L of Shockproof alone for the gearbox.

See my previous posts ;)

Just put a low km gearbox into my GTR and its all smooth and quiet but ive noticed that when its cold, 2nd gear is abit notchy, not exactly crunchy but not 100% smooth either.

I paid roughly 100 bucks for nulon 75 85 gl4 oil thinking it would do the job great but I dont believe its doing its job very well!

ive been recommended castrol syntrans 75w 85 but its $37 / L ... There is also Castrol VMX-M which is also 75w 85 for $48 for 4L .........

If i do go for the syntrans, will i have smoother shifts or is it simply just a more durable oil ? If its not going to give me better shifts i think im going to stick with the VMX-M.

Both oils are GL-4 btw.

  • 1 month later...

Snozzle. I had redline light weight in the 33 with unknown kms. Smashed in some castrol syntrans or syntrax (the pricey synthetic one) and it was fuxed. All gears felt like crap. Crunching, grinding all with NORMAL driving. So i dumped it ($100 worth of oil) and put in the light weight that i saved :P

All sweet except it now crunched going into 5th hmmmmm.

Fast forward 8 months or so of this and i had enough :P Put in new light weight and it's crunched once into 5th in 3months instead of every couple of days. I say no to castrol!!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi Guys,

After reading all 6 pages, I worked out what I will do on my R32 GTR.............

  • Engine Oil - I will stick with the Nissan 7.5W/30 Oil
  • Transfer Case and ATTESA E-TS PRO Actuator - Nissan Matic D
  • Manual Gearbox - Redline Lightweight Shockproof
  • Front Differential - Redline Lightweight Shockproof

Rear Differential ----------- This is where I get stuck........

Should I put in the Red Line '80W/140' as Redline recommends or the 75W/90?

I'm worried that the 140 will be too extreme compared to the factory specifications?

Your thoughts?

Thanks,

Bob.

the redline heavyweight is fine for the rear and front diff, but not realy necessary for street use. I would just run any reasonable LSD oil in them both. Redline go to a lot of trouble to explain that their oil has "special" properties that mean it's SAE rating is misleading.

FWIW, I also would not use redline in the gearbox unless you have noticed some crunching from the synchros. If the gearbox is fine just use a regular gearbox oil. The redline formula was changed in the last 2 years and it now breathes significantly from the box leading to lots of leaks/overflow/top ups even if the box is filled to the correct level. Also redline do not recommend it for gearboxes with synchros.

For the transfer case and actuator, I personally would use Castrol Transmax Z, I have used it extensively without problems, and it is cheaper than the genuine nissan stuff.

And finally...I probably wouldn't use nissan engine oil either - there are lots of better oils out there. Depending on klm on the motor, I'd be using 10w40 or 10w30 in any good fully synthetic oil.

the redline heavyweight is fine for the rear and front diff, but not realy necessary for street use. I would just run any reasonable LSD oil in them both. Redline go to a lot of trouble to explain that their oil has "special" properties that mean it's SAE rating is misleading.

FWIW, I also would not use redline in the gearbox unless you have noticed some crunching from the synchros. If the gearbox is fine just use a regular gearbox oil. The redline formula was changed in the last 2 years and it now breathes significantly from the box leading to lots of leaks/overflow/top ups even if the box is filled to the correct level. Also redline do not recommend it for gearboxes with synchros.

For the transfer case and actuator, I personally would use Castrol Transmax Z, I have used it extensively without problems, and it is cheaper than the genuine nissan stuff.

And finally...I probably wouldn't use nissan engine oil either - there are lots of better oils out there. Depending on klm on the motor, I'd be using 10w40 or 10w30 in any good fully synthetic oil.

Thanks Duncan,

I appreciate the feedback.......

Mark put a complete range of FUCHS oils through my car and I'm not sure if there are better alternatives?

http://www.fuchs.com.au/ProductRange.asp

You know him pretty well. Would you leave it or change?

Car only does 1500 kms per year and NO track work.....

Bob.

haha well I used to be sponsored by Fuchs so I may not be the best to answer that :P

With a lightly used car like yours I think any reasonable oils are fine, and that includes Fuchs. If you are having a particular problem then you mught need a specific solution - but if all your fluids have been changed in the last 12 months I would not worry about anything except oil changes for years to come.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Guys

I know im probably repeat some stuff but i cant find what im looking for. I have an R33 GTR and looking to do

the manual trans, Transfer, attesa and rear diff. I have a mate that can get me the oils but he just needs to know

the viscosity's for each part any help would be great.

Thanks

Kile

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Earlyer someone asked about "smurfs blood"

I use it in my stagea, my mates s15 and my mates r32,

I had issues with 4th gear and after using shockproof light she is smooth.

Since then that's all I use

Earlyer someone asked about "smurfs blood"

I use it in my stagea, my mates s15 and my mates r32,

I had issues with 4th gear and after using shockproof light she is smooth.

Since then that's all I use

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I have read through this thread several times, and still end up confused on what product of oil i need to put in my GTR's rear/front diff's and transfer case...

Can somebody just tell me exactly what i need to buy from my local supercheap auto/auto barn/repco!

I did my Gearbox oil the other week, and used Castrol VMX-M. Seems all good to far, and shifts a bit smoother then the old oil that was in there!

Please. Somebody, just tell me what i need to buy......!

My mechanic changed mine revently to vmx-m when he did my clutch..it previously had vmx-80 with 500ml of nulon n90 additive.

I think it was better before as its a little notchy now...

From what I am told vmx-m was designed to help fix crunchy mitsu boxes..

If it feels a little rough add some n90 it should improve a little..I'm going to have to try Smurf blood next time just out of curiosity :/

  • 1 month later...

My mechanic changed mine revently to vmx-m when he did my clutch..it previously had vmx-80 with 500ml of nulon n90 additive.

I think it was better before as its a little notchy now...

From what I am told vmx-m was designed to help fix crunchy mitsu boxes..

If it feels a little rough add some n90 it should improve a little..I'm going to have to try Smurf blood next time just out of curiosity :/

I had a notchy rb25 box a while box that I ran vmx80 + g90 in and then swapped to shockproof, vmx80 + G90 felt much better.

Edited by battery
  • 1 month later...

Not sure if I'm going to get some weird looks from this but anyway

Took some inspiration from the VE SS' today and thought I would trial some ATF in the RB25DET Manual box (VE SS 6 spd's run ATF as standard). So far its a bit nicer then the Syntrans I had in there (not bashing the product, it did have a bit of crap through the oil, has served me well before that)

The ATF was free and worth a try so I'll see how its going in a week or two. If its no good might make the switch to Redline or Syntrax. Gearbox was rebuilt only about a year ago with new syncros on 2nd and 4th, but has been crunching 4th for the last few months. So far its not as crunchy, but see what happens over the next week

Ok....... This whole fluids thing has been doing my head in over the last few months.

I had all my fluids replaced about 6 months ago but I'm not happy with some noticeable gear noise within the gearbox/drive train.

I have a JDM R32 GT-R. All Stock with rebuilt gearbox in excellent condition.

I am revisiting the whole thing in line with factory specs. I've spent a fair bit of time trying to tick all the boxes for each component.

After researching all the specs and talking to some gearbox specialists I am flushing EVERYTHING and putting the following in the car:

Engine Oil - Mobil 1 10W/40 HIGH MILEAGE Formulation.

This is not available over the counter in Australia but a guy brings in in from the USA and sells it on Ebay.

Here - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mobil-1-Engine-Oil-High-Mileage-10W40-6-Quart-/180651266349?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0fa7912d

Front Diff - This was tricky. I wanted an 85W/90 weight, non LSD formulation that was compatible with hypoid differentials.

I ended up choosing Liqui Moly Hypoid Oil SAE 85W/90.

Gearbox - I'm going to try Penrite Transaxle 75. It's a 75W/90 Semi Synthetic premium performance oil.

I'm happy to compromise a little bit of smoothness in the shifting for a quieter drivetrain which I've been told may occur.... (I'm hoping)

Rear Diff - I'm going for Penrite Limslip 90 which is a 80W/90 LSD gear oil.

Transfer Case and Actuator - Nissanmatic D. I'm not interested in taking risks so I'm just going to fill it with the OEM recommendations.

This is all happening on Thursday so I'll let you all know how it goes.

If anyone thinks I'm committing suicide please let me know before then.

Cheers,

Bob.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...