Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 241
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you can have your 2.9l but who really needs power under 4000rpm in a gtr

after that us 2.6l are all over you like a fat kid on a cupcake :D lag is fun and is fixed by a clutch kick haha

You obviously missed the 9000rpm rev limit bit. Anything you can do with 2.6litres, you can do better with 2.9 :ermm:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3658125
Share on other sites

i'd like more info on where i can get one of these cranks that'll handle those sorta revs..

i think you will find its probably an off the shelf jap full counter jobbie as Lithium suggested.

Id really like to see that torque graph with a more "realistic" scale. As it will show what Ben has achieved in a better light.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3658242
Share on other sites

i think you will find its probably an off the shelf jap full counter jobbie as Lithium suggested.

Id really like to see that torque graph with a more "realistic" scale. As it will show what Ben has achieved in a better light.

was also thinking that.. but who makes one which works out to be 2.9litre?

time to start planning wat i wanna do to new gtr :ermm:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3658323
Share on other sites

Apexi made an RB26 2.9L kit but my money is on the fact that it still runs a std Nissan crank, most likely the RB30 crank and block. But like anything, its no one ingredient that gets you these sorts of results. Its probably a combination of displacement, turbo selection, tuning, cam size and engine building and custom tweakineg from hours of R&D....all topped off with a tune that allows for what has been screwed into the motor.

Having gawked at the motor i have a few ideas of what is going on in there, but none of them are that informed, just a few educated and of course inevitable guesses. Which i wont bother to speculate about as they probably hold as much water as the story a "guy" at the track was telling me about how the Racepace inlet manifold made the inlet air travel in a vortex that accelerates and cools the air into the combustion chamber colder then ambient temps :ermm:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3658374
Share on other sites

Apexi made an RB26 2.9L kit but my money is on the fact that it still runs a std Nissan crank, most likely the RB30 crank and block. But like anything, its no one ingredient that gets you these sorts of results. Its probably a combination of displacement, turbo selection, tuning, cam size and engine building snf custom tweakign from hours of R&D....all topped off with a tune that allows for what has been screwed into the motor.

Excellent post

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3658387
Share on other sites

Anything you can do with 2.6litres, you can do better with 2.9 :P

Well said

Impressive. Makes me wonder why Nissan didn't make these themselves. Like an RB30 with the anger of an RB26.

Congrats.

Group a rules

lol - if he moves to Sydney all the cars will start getting SBS (Sump Baffle Syndrome) that you blokes get up there far too often

Hahaha, not all of us :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3658704
Share on other sites

Well Racepace have managed to effectively bait our breath, whats the story?? Is this a setup we'll be able to be told about or pay money for to get it for ourselves? Would be VERY interesting to see that car run on a hub dyno showing boost and rpm :teehee:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3659366
Share on other sites

Lithius,

I'm sure if you took your car to Benno and said "Give me that package" he would more than happily perform the required work to the car.

As for telling you how to do it yourself, I think you have got very little chance.

Ben has been developing RB engines for years and years and years. And that knowledge is the basis for his business.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3659376
Share on other sites

definitely move to sydney benno. merli's bill alone will keep you in business for a fair while. I'm a bit of a tight arse but have been known to break out the odd dollar too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3659667
Share on other sites

My guess;

RB26 block (N1 perhaps)

87 mm bore (a good block will take 1 mm over no problems)

82.7 mm stroke (via any one of the forged cranks around, HKS, Trust Tomei etc) Could be tricky and save money by using an offset grind on the RB27 crank, but it is unlikely that it would take the rpm.

~120 mm rod (standard RB26 length as they are easily obtainable from a number of sources).

~4 mm raised gudgeon pin height (over standard RB26) pistons

I eliminated the RB30 block, some people don't like the requirement for a 4wd adaptor plate

I also eliminated the block spacer and liners, OS Giken style, as you wouldn't bother with RB29.5 when you can have RB31.

With the 8,000 rpm top end power the cams would need to be 272'ish maybe 280'ish on the exhaust, depends on the size of the exhaust valves used. Lots of lift, around 10.5mm or so.

That would facilitate some compression, say around 9 to 1, which would help achieve the nice power curve

Turbos, that's tough, GTRS (or a Garrett equivalent) would seem logical it has about the right power for them.

Then it's tuning, tuning, tuning

Them's my guesses.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3659719
Share on other sites

Nice work Gary. I'm pretty sure a lot of that is wrong though. Except for the last bit.

But then the only person who really knows is the big fella. Even then I'm not 100% convinced he even remembers what has been done. Because every time he's done something to the car I've returned to find he's pulled it all apart again. LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/4/#findComment-3659882
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...