Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just a quick one, you have a standard diff and a car that does mostly track days.

What is the best option to go for? My standard starts to open wheel and is hard to get some power down. I can get a rebuilt 1 way centre at a decent cost, but what do most people go for, for track days (not drift!)

Cheers,

Chris

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I found my shimmed up diff (added a single 1.2mm shim) was brilliant at Wakefield compared to the first time I went.

It actually began to open wheel towards the end of the day, and the difference was huge (the open wheeling was a result of the crownwheel bolts not being done up tight enough - this reduces preload on the shims - and take note that this was the result of human error, not a problem with shimming the diff). It was amazing how much longer you needed to wait when exiting a corner to get on the throttle when it was open wheeling.

It actually gave a really good perspective on just how much improvement it made in retrospect...

If you dont mind getting your hands dirty (its a bit of work to do), its a very very good value for money diff upgrade. $8 for shim, $20 - 30 for some new diff oil, locking diff for under $50 bucks... hard to beat :thumbsup:

Edited by swanny180

Cheers Luke!

Yeah thats one avenue for me to look into also!

So the 1.13 at wakie - that was with the shimmed diff? What times were you doing prior?

I know what you mean with the open wheeling and getting power down, but here comes a silly question....if it is more of a "locker", instead of open wheeling when putting power down, wouldn't the car more likely slide more if both wheels spin? Or with the locking, it helps give both wheels even power/traction down so it helps getting out of the corner better?

I need to do more research :) (diff's for dummies 101!)

1.5 way is the go. :) 2 way is acceptable too. you could get a second hand GTR diff (which are 2 way) quite cheap and buy the nismo clutch upgrade for it and have a basically brand new nismo 2 way for cheap.

comes down the preference, a 2 way will obviously lock up both on accel and decel so it makes the diff movement very predictable when coming on and off the throttle, hence why its popular for drift, this unfortunately means that coming in, middle and out of the corner the rear wheels arnt going to want turn at different rates on either acceleration or deceleration, this causes some understeer, especially coming into the corner and on the tighter corners. 1.5way allows u to feather off the throttle and open up the diff meaning it can turn in easier, but when u put ur foot back down it locks up again and allows u to get the power down. for me the 1.5way is preferable, but as i said, its about preference.

would a shimmed diff chirp and sound like the diff is gonna break apart like a locker when doing low speed turns or a U turn??

do 1.5/2 ways have this problem as well or are they normal ?

Edited by whyte

My stock 2way GTR diff shudders while doing slow speed, tight, turns, more when its cold then when its warmed up.

If you shim it tighter than its going to do it even more, as in every turn it will skip a little bit and groan...but if you avoid tight turns on the street then you don't have to worry about it as much :).

Cheers nisskid :)

Also - my garage...unit complex and takes about 3 - 4 pt turn to get into my LUG - that would be pretty harsh in a 2 way yes?

very, not as bad as a locked diff, but bad. it will also wear ur tyres out a fair bit. thing is, even with a 1.5way, when doing a 3pt turn ur probably going to need to be on the throttle anyway, so ull need to accelerate then take ur foot off the throttle and then turn while ur coasting.

1 way is the best for reducing understeer under power if you can get one of those go for it.

I am using the standard 2 way gtr diff in the race car, it has been shimmed up so tight that I can hear it clunking around roundabouts at 50klm/h lol. goes brilliant on the track but there is a little understeer on turn in.

1,1.5 or 2 way. They are all the same under acceleration. Unless your car is badly set up it won't push too much on acceleration (talking rwd here). I'm not saying you won't have the odd corner exit understeer moment post apex, but it's generally corrected with a slight lift. Same for exit oversteer. It comes down to set up and throttle control.

Deceleration is where the differences start. If you're braking in a straight line, they are all much the same. You may feel a slight bit of understeer with a 1.5 and 2 way when you lift off the brake and turn (again set up dependent). I find that if you run a bit of toe out on the front it's not an issue, alternately trail brake. Or if you brake in a straight line, lift and turn in and it wants to go straight, dab the brake again and watch it turn.

If you are braking in a curve with a 1.5 or 2 way, you probably won't notice, but people watching may comment that you are braking slightly sideways. wakefield turn 2 with shit rubber is a really good example if you go wide at the kink. Botch a down shift in that situation and around you go if you aren't ready to catch it.

If you get a 1.5 or 2 way and set up your car accordingly they will be both be fine. If you are worried about shuddering on 3 point turns you may want to stick with a viscous :D You definitely don't want a nismo 1.5 way (not the pro), tightest diff eva!

I wouldn't bother with shiming the stock viscous, it's a short term solution, and it may as well be locked when it is doing it's job.

Honestly, what ever you get, you will drive around it. I would suggest a 1.5 way, but i know guys who are consistently quicker than i am who have 2 ways. I only suggest 1.5 way as it is the happy middle ground and can do both track and drift work well enough, where as the 1 way is a rubbish drift diff and the 2 way is a bit too tight on decel for track work

Dave,

Thanks for the reply mate, really appreciate it!

I'll certainly be looking into this more!!Im now not looking to do any more drift (cept for the SAU NSW Drift day in Oct?) Grip is where its at lol

Thanks mate!

i have a nismo 2 way in the silvia. you are welcome to test it out chubbs. it's a farkin pig of a thing around the streets. it clunks like buggery and sounds like your whole car is about to fall apart! or alternatively it will chirp tyres. BUT on the track it's awesome. very predictable which is exactly what you want. :down:

OK. What I understand to be the case.

Standard rear GT-R diff is a two way. But there can often be little or no pre load on the plates. Copnsequence being it can bag up easilly &then become next to impossible to reign in.

The Nismo 1.5 way LSD Pro is a tight, clunky diff. Mine is. The 0.5 component appears to be a misnomer. The 0.5 way is square.

The difference between a TT LSD Pro & an Lsd Pro is the ramp angle. Less aggressive on the TT. But you cannot get a TT for a GT-R.

I realise that may not be too helpfull for your car, but it may enlighten someone.

Edited by djr81

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...