Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 895
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the timber species Tasmanian Oak is actually mixed tassie and vic trees like vic ash mountain ash messmate etc but its labeled OAK cos European people believe that ash is a sub species.

Enough "oh but its a vipec not a link its a link not a vipec." more about tuning results please. i couldnt give a rats arse who makes it. just as long as its good and has the proof to back it up

the timber species Tasmanian Oak is actually mixed tassie and vic trees like vic ash mountain ash messmate etc but its labeled OAK cos European people believe that ash is a sub species.

Enough "oh but its a vipec not a link its a link not a vipec." more about tuning results please. i couldnt give a rats arse who makes it. just as long as its good and has the proof to back it up

i think 12 pages back we all agree it is good, ive used both Vipec and Link G4's with great success, but as said a page back if you have a PFC and expect to get more power just by changing over you are wasting your money.... check over the options and if you need extra functionality and are reaching the limits of your current ecu then i cant reccomend the LINK or Vipec enough as they are great to use and driveability is as good as a well tuned PFC remap etc, far better driveabilty than any microtech etc..

hey all

im about to put a r32 rb26 into my 33 gtst, i currently have a 33 gtst pfc, but from reading i presume i would need the r32 rb26 vipec to run this motor? is that correct, and then would also need a standard 32 gtr ecu to put the vipec board into??

hey all

im about to put a r32 rb26 into my 33 gtst, i currently have a 33 gtst pfc, but from reading i presume i would need the r32 rb26 vipec to run this motor? is that correct, and then would also need a standard 32 gtr ecu to put the vipec board into??

any r 32 33 or 34 stock ecu case will fit the vipec board

the vi-pec board suits rb20/25/26

speak to alistair @ Autoworx or contact Lumpy (the distributor in WA) for any details

Edited by gazza750
i figured out why flat shift wasn't working for me earlier this evening, i must say its a good bit of fun now that it does work, though traction between gears is a bit of an issue.

how do you set it up? where were you going wrong?

Wire up one of the digital inputs to the clutch switch and set it up as a "GP Input".

Check that the settings are correct for the way you have wired the switch using the "Digital Inputs" tab at the bottom of the software. (this is the bit where mine was playing up the rising/falling setting was set incorrectly so it was activating as the clutch pedal was released rather than depressed which makes for an interesting drive)

Turn flat shifting on i have found that around 0.75 seconds for the cut period works well for me.

Then just setup what RPM you want it active above with what % of throttle you want it to activate over.

i found that my car with a fully functional stock BOV holds ~8psi (running 12psi) during the gear changes and the boost is pretty much instantaneous when the ignition cut finishes.

Edited by TiTAN
any r 32 33 or 34 stock ecu case will fit the vipec board

the vi-pec board suits rb20/25/26

speak to alistair @ Autoworx or contact Lumpy (the distributor in WA) for any details

cheers man, will do that when purchase time gets closer

Just a wild question, its probably been asked before, but i couldnt be bothered reading through the 20+ pages.

Does anyone know if there are any decent tuners for the vipec here in Auckland, NZ??

and roughly how much for drive in drive out?

Just a wild question, its probably been asked before, but i couldnt be bothered reading through the 20+ pages.

Does anyone know if there are any decent tuners for the vipec here in Auckland, NZ??

and roughly how much for drive in drive out?

You would be crazy to use a vipec ecu in NZ, go to your nearest link dealer. If you can drive up to whangarei trickytune is a dealer and has done many pnp g4's

Anyone who tunes link g4's can tune a vipec as they are the same thing.

Btw GCP are the nz vipec dealer.

Edited by megrac
can anyone confirm that the v44 plugin will run low impedence injectors without using a resistor pack?

I have heard they from different people that they will but have also read you need a resistor pack.

Anyone done this yet?

V44 only handles high impedance so you'll need a resistor pack.

The V88 handles both + it also has knock detection unlike the V44.

Graham West in Adelaide has been running the Vipecs on the skylines adn other cars for some time now. He's good but he's expensive.

Personally I'd prefer to grab the one install myself and have my own tuner tune it for a few hundred.

I remember reading some where the V44 handles external knock input so that may be another option. Really comes down to the price of the V44 plugin vs V88.

I'm a bit of a fiddler so I'd love to ditch the PowerFC, plug the Vipec in with a wideband/laptop and get that tune 11ty billion percent spot on. :D

Edited by TheRogue

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...