Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That does make helping harder, where are you located

What you might have to do is rip off one of the cam covers and get the part number off the end of the cam cause if their not poncams but full aftermarket then poncams may not be "boltin" any more in which case you may as well go the 260 x 10.8 procam or better yet the unigroup cams

Located in Warrick Farm area, between Cabra and Livo, hmm, i'm not very confident in doing that myself xD might need some help.

I didn't intend to get involved in the usual FIP section pissing contest.....just to make the point that if your tuner says they "tuned for response" without changing anything mechanically you better find a tuner who isn't talking shit.

Jimmy, I was listing mechanical factors that affect response; once the mods have started most people forget how early the standard setup gets on boost. I built the stagea deliberately for response which is why it has standard zorst manifold, standard cams, standard head, small turbo and 3 litre bottom end. And it makes 18psi by 3200 rpm

stagea_dyno_2012.jpg

If I wanted more response I would add cam gear (as I have on the race car), it can bring on boost a few hundred revs sooner at the cost of top end power. But frankly it comes on hard enough early enough to empty the fuel tank quickly.

For a race car I would say it is a very different concern. Full boost at 5 or even 5.5 is adequate especially if you have short gears and a standard or raised rev limit.

  • Like 1

You can't because it wont sounds nice

Not that I'm sure that anyone would be able to hear the difference.....but if all you are worried about is the sound, you must also be the type that buys cars on how many cup holders it has!

Not that I'm sure that anyone would be able to hear the difference.....but if all you are worried about is the sound, you must also be the type that buys cars on how many cup holders it has!

Shut up mate, I do that, my new car has 10 cup holders ?

For me,

Bottom end:

Standard rb26 crank, nitrided, chamfered oil holes, Standard rods resized and shot peened,

Hypertectic pistons, id have to look into brands before deciding, but i do not believe forged slugs are required, pistons to suit 10.5:1 comp with valve relief's, steel comp rings, low tension oil rings, restrictors fitted to oil feeds and head/block returns drilled out

Head: stock valves, heavy springs, cams 260/262 10.5 lift dialed @106/110, a good throat job and trim valve guides, head decked to suit chosen pistons,

Turbo and pipes: small diameter high mount turbo manifold, hks 3037s, 50mm gate with 2inch open screamer, 3 inch dump, no cat or mufflers, strait to the rear

2.5inch stainless cooler pipes to replacement factory sized cooler, water/meth nozzle directly before inlet to plenum,

Id run 18-20psi, i believe a good tuner could really lean on this combo and make a rediculasly responsive weapon that packs a punch

Hmm, first question to get a post out of me in a while lol

Lets not forget the key point to making response as to a revy engine.

Light recipricating weight in the engine.

Lightest pistons and rods, crankshaft and flywheel.

Gearing helps to enhance the free rev nature when on power.

Dont get too carried away though, a clutch dump start can lead to a serious bog down on launch. :)

Turbos, cams etc work with on power driving response as does a smaller volume intercooler etc.

Edited by GTRPSI

You can look at this another way by thinking what Nissan would have done if they wanted road car like characteristics in a GTR . I think the logical solution is to start with a Neo 25T Stag engine and build it up to a level rather than trying to convince RB26 to do what it wasn't intended to . Don't hate me people but I consider an RB26 a dumb road engine in some ways because Nissan didn't put any of the smarts into making it a nice road car engine . It was intended to be a bit of a hero drive because the basis was for a road race GT car not an all round street car .

The Neo has a higher CR and the last big bore (86) turbo RB revision of chamber and piston crown shape . The whole inlet exhaust and turbo systems are designed to make good part throttle torque which is what any successful ROAD car formula HAS to be based around .

This is not to say you can't build a pretty healthy RB25T that still retains good road car characteristics . Neo head I reckon better basis than RB26 because of the chamber redesign and the two stage inlet cam phasing . On the other side of the coing the RB26 inlet system is a better performance design and better suits a GTRs air plumbing .

Production 25s always had single turbos and they have developed to the stage that singles can be pretty good nowdays .

Consider this clean sheet approach .

Neo Stag 4WD RB25DET .

Graft RB26 inlet manifold onto Neo head .

Bore to 1 OS to have similar capacity .

Standard exhaust manifold .

GT30 based turbo ie 0.82 AR IW 3076HTA .

Don't think 300-320 RWKW is an unreasonable expectation and non of this stuff has GTR/RB26 "tax" attached . Legally no capacity or rated power issue and Neo is emissions approved engine in Australia . You lose all the TT complexity and service bastardisation you have with the hot side of a factory RB26 .

I reckon this combination would give a stdish GTR in the same shell ie 32/33/34 a bloody quick hurry up and be better to drive in Camry mode .

A .

  • Like 1
Part numbers they have listed in Ebay are for tybe B cams. which are 260 degree 9.15 lift.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e070_cam_RB26.html

I sent tomei an email last week about those cams to check out what was the go with them and they replied that they were legit and we're a small special order item to some dealers

I sent tomei an email last week about those cams to check out what was the go with them and they replied that they were legit and we're a small special order item to some dealers

This is about the ex 270 9.15 lift right? Got told that they don't make them anymore, thats why they're not listed anymore.

Thanks log in. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...