Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didn't intend to get involved in the usual FIP section pissing contest.....just to make the point that if your tuner says they "tuned for response" without changing anything mechanically you better find a tuner who isn't talking shit.

Jimmy, I was listing mechanical factors that affect response; once the mods have started most people forget how early the standard setup gets on boost. I built the stagea deliberately for response which is why it has standard zorst manifold, standard cams, standard head, small turbo and 3 litre bottom end. And it makes 18psi by 3200 rpm

stagea_dyno_2012.jpg

If I wanted more response I would add cam gear (as I have on the race car), it can bring on boost a few hundred revs sooner at the cost of top end power. But frankly it comes on hard enough early enough to empty the fuel tank quickly.

For a race car I would say it is a very different concern. Full boost at 5 or even 5.5 is adequate especially if you have short gears and a standard or raised rev limit.

I want this for my stagea... working on the 3lt currently but what turbo did you go with? my goal is the curve to be climbing through 120 odd kw at 3k (torquie is locked up by then) with a fat load of torque.

I remember Cubes saying years ago that a std GT3076R 0.82 AR woke up quite early on his RB2530 though that was with an R32 RB25 NA head on it - no VCT .

I'm trying to think along the lines of what Ford did on early XR6Ts when they wanted low boost with low restriction torque at lowish revs . Their GT3582R had the big turbine housing size with a smaller than usual sized compressor housing (T04E 0.50 from memory) and low boost pressure possibly 6-8 psi .

I know people reckon I harped on about GT3076R 52T turbos over the years but think about this . Results with GT3071Rs were inconsistent and the 52T is the smallest of the 76mm GT compressor options . The smaller 0.50 AR (vs 0.60 AR) T04E compressor housing would put the air speed a bit higher at lower turbo speeds which is what you want to make low speed torque IMO .

I think the critical thing is having low exhaust restriction at low revs but enough compressor speed to make boost in that engine speed range . Autos make life easier here because the engine revs can be a little higher at the point where the torque converter does exactly that .

20% more engine capacity will make a big difference in the standing to suburbing speed ranges so heaps of low down boost probably isn't necessary .

Other than a GT3076R the only other thing I can think of is maybe a 2835 Pro S with the larger 0.87AR turbine housing on it if you can find that kit . Expensive new but falls in and the 0.87 possibly better suits the RB30 .

I also agree with std cams and manifolds .

A .

Yeah 180kw at 3500 is pretty fun, I'd be surprised if there were many RB setups making that sort of power :)

I'm actually not sure of the exact turbo specs; I originally had an ebay "T3/4" bush bearing turbo on there and put a garret ball bearing core in when it failed. If it helps the turbo anorak wearers the core tag says "PC 0105J 7-6451-5005".

But whatever it was, it was spot on what I was after :)

  • 4 weeks later...

I went back to stock airbox from ARC airbox, Tomei Poncams 270 ex 9.15, tomei cam gears, arp headstuds, tomei valve springs. Will eventually change out AFM's to Z32's and get a hard piping kit to replace all the rubber pipes :)

ok so i have been told to build a reliable 600hp rb26 on e85 I will need a nismo (n1 block) that -5 turbos will not flow at that power. i was told that the stock rb26 block will crack for sure at some stage if its pushed past 450hp . my block is the r33 gtr block . What is your view on this guys .ps sorry if i hi jacked this thread

ok so i have been told to build a reliable 600hp rb26 on e85 I will need a nismo (n1 block) that -5 turbos will not flow at that power. i was told that the stock rb26 block will crack for sure at some stage if its pushed past 450hp . my block is the r33 gtr block . What is your view on this guys .ps sorry if i hi jacked this thread

Don't go back there again. They don't know what they are talking about LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...