Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didn't intend to get involved in the usual FIP section pissing contest.....just to make the point that if your tuner says they "tuned for response" without changing anything mechanically you better find a tuner who isn't talking shit.

Jimmy, I was listing mechanical factors that affect response; once the mods have started most people forget how early the standard setup gets on boost. I built the stagea deliberately for response which is why it has standard zorst manifold, standard cams, standard head, small turbo and 3 litre bottom end. And it makes 18psi by 3200 rpm

stagea_dyno_2012.jpg

If I wanted more response I would add cam gear (as I have on the race car), it can bring on boost a few hundred revs sooner at the cost of top end power. But frankly it comes on hard enough early enough to empty the fuel tank quickly.

For a race car I would say it is a very different concern. Full boost at 5 or even 5.5 is adequate especially if you have short gears and a standard or raised rev limit.

I want this for my stagea... working on the 3lt currently but what turbo did you go with? my goal is the curve to be climbing through 120 odd kw at 3k (torquie is locked up by then) with a fat load of torque.

I remember Cubes saying years ago that a std GT3076R 0.82 AR woke up quite early on his RB2530 though that was with an R32 RB25 NA head on it - no VCT .

I'm trying to think along the lines of what Ford did on early XR6Ts when they wanted low boost with low restriction torque at lowish revs . Their GT3582R had the big turbine housing size with a smaller than usual sized compressor housing (T04E 0.50 from memory) and low boost pressure possibly 6-8 psi .

I know people reckon I harped on about GT3076R 52T turbos over the years but think about this . Results with GT3071Rs were inconsistent and the 52T is the smallest of the 76mm GT compressor options . The smaller 0.50 AR (vs 0.60 AR) T04E compressor housing would put the air speed a bit higher at lower turbo speeds which is what you want to make low speed torque IMO .

I think the critical thing is having low exhaust restriction at low revs but enough compressor speed to make boost in that engine speed range . Autos make life easier here because the engine revs can be a little higher at the point where the torque converter does exactly that .

20% more engine capacity will make a big difference in the standing to suburbing speed ranges so heaps of low down boost probably isn't necessary .

Other than a GT3076R the only other thing I can think of is maybe a 2835 Pro S with the larger 0.87AR turbine housing on it if you can find that kit . Expensive new but falls in and the 0.87 possibly better suits the RB30 .

I also agree with std cams and manifolds .

A .

Yeah 180kw at 3500 is pretty fun, I'd be surprised if there were many RB setups making that sort of power :)

I'm actually not sure of the exact turbo specs; I originally had an ebay "T3/4" bush bearing turbo on there and put a garret ball bearing core in when it failed. If it helps the turbo anorak wearers the core tag says "PC 0105J 7-6451-5005".

But whatever it was, it was spot on what I was after :)

  • 4 weeks later...

I went back to stock airbox from ARC airbox, Tomei Poncams 270 ex 9.15, tomei cam gears, arp headstuds, tomei valve springs. Will eventually change out AFM's to Z32's and get a hard piping kit to replace all the rubber pipes :)

ok so i have been told to build a reliable 600hp rb26 on e85 I will need a nismo (n1 block) that -5 turbos will not flow at that power. i was told that the stock rb26 block will crack for sure at some stage if its pushed past 450hp . my block is the r33 gtr block . What is your view on this guys .ps sorry if i hi jacked this thread

ok so i have been told to build a reliable 600hp rb26 on e85 I will need a nismo (n1 block) that -5 turbos will not flow at that power. i was told that the stock rb26 block will crack for sure at some stage if its pushed past 450hp . my block is the r33 gtr block . What is your view on this guys .ps sorry if i hi jacked this thread

Don't go back there again. They don't know what they are talking about LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...