Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 204
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeh once the car is finished i will be buyibg some 18" rims for the street. Will be either satin black FR18s or bronze TC105s. If the TC05s i have fit then the new RE30s i have at my desk in Melb will get flogged off. :) I regret buying new rims which before i have had a chance to fit have become common :(

Opps OT. How about a well designed wheel will cool brakes better then a 18" chromie wheel :)

yeah I think the weds we have troy are the TC05. not the 005.

these are the 005s. (i like them too. weds are the goods. all of them! just a shame not all of them are forged, like the XD9s etc, look nice but cast...).

weds-wedsport-TC005-lg.jpg

I think they should be ok. When I insert the spigot part of the drawing into the gap in the wheel up to around half way there is clearance, but if I push it in all the way the 'caliper' touches on the rim slightly.

I'd check it out in person to be 100% sure

Thanks for checking. I'll get the brakes fitted and trial fit as everyone is suggesting.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, my brakes turned up today. Pics attached but I'm sure we all know what they look like. Rear hat is aluminium which is nice. Everything came as it should have done. Now for the fitting next Monday and then 1000kms of normal driving before they get onto the track. I've got 2 weeks to do this in before I'm at Sandown.......

Funnily enough, the recommended (by the vendor) run-in procedure is simply 1000kms of raod driving. No hard stops. No getting them hot etc.......Seems contrary to what I've heard, but his view is that only old pads needed this approach and that only old blokes still advocate it.....Hope that's not too controversial.

Got to get the coils changed too. Hopefully get them tomorrow from Slide.

post-46395-1227066235_thumb.jpg

post-46395-1227066253_thumb.jpg

post-46395-1227066264_thumb.jpg

post-46395-1227066485_thumb.jpg

In my dreams. They're in the sanctuary and sanctity of my office. I'm wondering if she'll notice once they're fitted. The irony is she has absoluitely no interest in my bogan-mobile but she seems to spot stuff with a hawk eye........ :) and keeps mentioning some 'secret fund' she thinks I have..... :D

Must be brake week.

My stuff went in on the weekend. Can't say if it works yet as I haven't done the other end. Just the M/C & front rotors & callipers. They will shortly be hiding behind these puppies..... :)

So your stuff has gone to a good home, Troy.

Not sure if it helps in the braking stakes but the brand whore count is heading North. :D

post-5134-1227069591_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1227069611_thumb.jpg

Im running Project MU single piece slotted rotors with Project Mu Titan Kai Front Pads and Project Mu HC+ Rear Pad's. No troubles pulling it up on the street with 400 KW at the treads at my disposal. Abit noisy though :)

9 pages later here they are. Funily enough I'm more excited about how they look than feel right now. Pedal is slightly softer than was (probably more piston area with the 4 pot rears) but they seem to work great on light and medium application. No sqeal so far.......Obviously not had the chance to stand on them from high speed so news on that is TBC.

I feel like a kid who had too much cake at the party. Over-indulged, but completely satisfied......

post-46395-1227731239_thumb.jpg

post-46395-1227731249_thumb.jpg

post-46395-1227731277_thumb.jpg

post-46395-1227731287_thumb.jpg

post-46395-1227732752_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...