Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pretty similar with the conversion....I think it was u that put me onto it in the first place! and after doing some research and giving it a go I reckon its def. better (if u can afford it)

Yah... expensive but its good stuffs. >_<

Edited by Trex101

Trex101, you sound like you really know your oils. I've got a bottle of full synthetic Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10w-30, do you reckon it should be alright to put in my stock 33? I treat it like there's a baby in back seat and only rev her out about once or twice per tank of fuel. With that oil what should be my oil change intervals? It's usually 5000km but could i stretch that out a bit more?

Trex101, you sound like you really know your oils. I've got a bottle of full synthetic Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10w-30, do you reckon it should be alright to put in my stock 33? I treat it like there's a baby in back seat and only rev her out about once or twice per tank of fuel. With that oil what should be my oil change intervals? It's usually 5000km but could i stretch that out a bit more?

Not familiar with Fuchs GTO... Is it semi or fully syn? For turbo application, best to use group IV fully syn oil. I read from BITOG that you guys can get Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for AU$30+ bucks per 5L. That's hell of a good deal over there. Go get that oil, it's a top notch oil for that type of pricing...

Not familiar with Fuchs GTO... Is it semi or fully syn? For turbo application, best to use group IV fully syn oil. I read from BITOG that you guys can get Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for AU$30+ bucks per 5L. That's hell of a good deal over there. Go get that oil, it's a top notch oil for that type of pricing...

Yeah its fully synthetic. The guy that sells it runs it in his stock car(you know the cars that are constantly going sideways around a circular mud track). He sells it for $36.

The thing you need to remember is the rating of the oil. When the GT-R was released, ie late eighties the oil grade was something like SF or SG or thereabouts. Now it is SM or similar. Each change from SF to SG and so on is a quantifiable gain in the protective qualities of the oil. So just about any current oil will be markedly better than what was put in the engine when it was released.

i totally i agree..... i think its more important to change your oil and filter regularly than worrying to much on the quality of the oil....

a car running a cheaper oil changed often vs a car running a motul oil thats never changed is better imo......

either way

anyway

im a motul user too....

Not familiar with Fuchs GTO... Is it semi or fully syn? For turbo application, best to use group IV fully syn oil. I read from BITOG that you guys can get Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for AU$30+ bucks per 5L. That's hell of a good deal over there. Go get that oil, it's a top notch oil for that type of pricing...

on the mobil site it says the 5w40 delvac oil is for diesels, is it ok for petrol engines too? please explain..?

on the mobil site it says the 5w40 delvac oil is for diesels, is it ok for petrol engines too? please explain..?

5W-40 is OK...nothing special tho...but as trex101 said its good value for money...

Edited by khunjeng
on the mobil site it says the 5w40 delvac oil is for diesels, is it ok for petrol engines too? please explain..?

It's a dual rated oil with API SL (petrol)/CI-4 rating (diesel). This oil is make up of mostly group IV/V plus a very strong additives package due to the fact that diesel engine are alot more stressful & high load environment for the oil than petrol engine.

If it's cheap, use it. This oil can last much longer than 10k km OCI anytime.

I use Delvac 1 and for the money, its second to none, and is one of the worlds best oils, regardless of price. In fact, if anything it is better than their own Mobil 1 Super Syn range.

Its a pity its so hard to find though.

ok so what oil is best for a 16 year old rb20det? I have being using semi syn 15 w 50 or Pennzoil for a year now, but after reading all this i am beginning to think this oil aint really good for a engine my age? i hear conflicting reports that old engines shouldnt be using "thin" oil like 5w 30w etc, can someone clarify please?

thankyou

oh i ALWAYS change oil and filter at 5000-6000km, i am interested in using a oil that genuinely cleans the engine, as i think 15years of japanese air must not have done it much good. (its done 86000..but we all know about kmz on skylines lol)

oh i ALWAYS change oil and filter at 5000-6000km, i am interested in using a oil that genuinely cleans the engine, as i think 15years of japanese air must not have done it much good. (its done 86000..but we all know about kmz on skylines lol)

If budget is no issue, use ester base Redline 10w40 or 5w40. The ester will slowly but surely clean all the junk out of the engine.

I've been using nothing but Motul 8100 5/40.

Was thinking of going 5/50 for track use but probably won't - will keep 5/40 and get an oil cooler. Would that be ok?

Also, anyone used ELF excellium 5/40? I've been thinking of switching, I think ELF are marketing excellium to take the 8100 market and for $10 if it's the same or better I'll switch.

I wish justjap wasn't so far away genuine nissan filter + 8100 5L for $65 ! Anyone know a place on the Northern Beaches/Shore that will do that!?

  • 3 weeks later...
I read from BITOG that you guys can get Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for AU$30+ bucks per 5L. That's hell of a good deal over there. Go get that oil, it's a top notch oil for that type of pricing...

Hey, i just called a place in sydney which sells this off the shelf (generally) and they want

$236inc gst for 20L

or

$177inc gst for 3x5L bottles

so its more like $60 for 5 litres not $30 unfortunately!

FYI the place is called fuel direct, in homebush 1300 781 982

fot that price you can get motul 8100(5w-40 as well), which do you think is better?

This might be of interest to those of you who like objective information; i've made a small table with some oil specs on it.

If anyone can find Motul specs PM me and i'll update the table. If anyone can tell me how to make an html table appear in a post, PM me. Pasting the HTML didnt work.

http://www.jaftan.com.au/skyline/engine/oilspecs.html

Rgs,

Kot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...