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Stay tuned Sougi fans...have just got way of the replacement oil, which is due out in a few months. I have no idea if it will be a group 5 or not, but it will be a full synthetic 10w40 known as Syn-X 6000. Will definitely be testing in my car upon release.

I will post more as I find out, and hopefully give you an idea of the retail price we'll be looking at.

Stay tuned Sougi fans...have just got way of the replacement oil, which is due out in a few months. I have no idea if it will be a group 5 or not, but it will be a full synthetic 10w40 known as Syn-X 6000. Will definitely be testing in my car upon release.

I will post more as I find out, and hopefully give you an idea of the retail price we'll be looking at.

Good stuff! Shoud have enough s6000 to see me through till it comes out!

hey guys seeing tho s6000 is not available would the m5000 be ok to run for a while til the syn x 6000 is released

Why wouldn't it be okay?

Mate, even the wrong oil isn't going to kill your engine as if it's poison. But for the record M5000 is merely the semi synthetic version of S6000.

hey guys seeing tho s6000 is not available would the m5000 be ok to run for a while til the syn x 6000 is released

You could put big w spec 25w 50 $5 for 5L oil in there and it would be fine, won't last long and if you are tracking it won't be optimal, but it won't do any harm.

About 20-30 bottles from memory.

yeah after doing alot of research on this i have worked out that it wont do harm i just wanted to find the most optimal oil for a rb25det

There is no such thing...every engine is different.

There are only oils and better oils. Experiment, find out what you prefer, both in viscosity and brand. Most people here are happy with 10w40 in various brands.

Interesting thread..

Just a couple of thoughts,

The DIY oil industry is a trillion dollar market, and most of the advertising claims reflect the grab for market share.

Ultra low viscosity oils (0w/20, 5w/30 etc) were developed for below freezing starts and increased mileage benefits..and not extended engine longevity.

Running these oils at startup in moderate/warm climates means your running oil the consistancy of machine oil at a time when clearances haven't stabilised and lubrication is minimal.

Your engines lubricating system, oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed to run such oils.

In this country SAE recomends 10w/30 and 10w/40, like most manufacturers do for 90's vehicles, for ambient temps in most areas. better to stick with that range in a quality oil.

Oil viscosity ratings, and tests are conducted on clean oil stocks in a lab environment, and don't reflect oil thats been running in your engine for the last 2 months or more.

Using Delvac or any diesel oil will cause oil leaks in any mid to high mileage engine, as they contain a very high level of detergents.

Synthetic oils become contaminated just the same as dino oils do, with combustion by-products, blow-by, fuel contamination and condensation. Using extended change intervals means running contaminated oil for longer periods.

Running expensive syn racing oils for OEM recomended change intervals can be very expensive, and probably has a very limited benefit.

Filters are as important as the oil your using, maybe even more so, if you choose the wrong one.

There's no substitute for oil film strength in a perf engine, so viscosity should match the upper level recomended in the SAE range for the appropriate ambient temperature.

When it comes to recomended viscosities, who are you going to trust..the manufacturer (who pays for warranty claims) the oil companies? or the guy at the store.

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