Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR
Originally posted by red17

I am told that only the 0W40 and 10W30 tri synthetics are the only 2 TRUE synthetic oils that Mobil make.  

Someone told me recently their brocky ad campaign was pulled because someone got shirty with them in regards to their so called synthetic 5W50 you buy off the shelf at autobarn, NOT being fully synthetic.

But ive also been told bullshit from this person in the past, so I wouldnt put it past him to shovel a little more.

Red17

Can anyone confirm this???

You can buy Amsoil through Autospeed shop. I have read alot of court cases against oil suppliers and oil additive companies like Slick 50. Amsiol were taken to court because they claim to be first in synthetic oil. All oil manufacturers were asked to comment (agree/disagree) on there claim. Not a single one did and the case was dropped.

I have seen another site which claims Mobil 1 is 200% worse than Amsoil.

Elf is a fuel manufacturer; they should know what they're doing. If you go for any sort of synth oil, and you change the oil every 4-5000k's i don't think it is an issue. We should be worried about frequency of change, not so much the oil itself. We can argue till the cows come home about whether mobil/shell/motul/royal purple etc is best, but at the end of the day any of their synths will protect your engine regardless of how hard you drive it.

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, i was looking on the Amsoil website and it says that their 10-40 oil is:

In gasoline-fueled passenger vehicles in normal or severe service, change AMSOIL XL-7500 Synthetic Motor Oils at 7,500-mile or six-month intervals, whichever comes first.

Shit - thats a long time. I guess that is pretty good compared to the other oils that have been thrown around in this thread.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/xl7500.html

  • 4 months later...

Just for anyone that thinks Motul is the be-all and end-all of engine oils - When my lifter blocked up and started rattling, I was running Motul oil. Now, I'm not specifically blaming this oil for causing the blockage, but people have a tendency to blame whatever oil they're running at the time for whatever engine problems occur, especially with blockage of the galleries etc.

I don't know if the Motul oil caused my problem, but with the last oil change I have also noticed for the first time the lines going to my catch can starting to stain with blow-by, as well as oil stains on my rear bar near the exhaust. This could just be a coincidence, maybe my engine is just naturally starting to wear at this point in time and I just happened to be using Motul oil while it happened. But I am going to change brands to see if it makes any improvement.

I have also had no problems using Motul oil on my motorcycle. I think I will switch back to it because it's cheaper than the Castrol I'm currently using in it. Or I might try Mobil.

I had valvoline 15W-50 synth in my GTR and just changed to mobil 1 5w-50 synth and it feels as though the car revs alot easier....probably because of the thinker oil...I noticed some of u guys don't like Mobil 1...any particular reasons?

  • 5 months later...

When I first got oil for my GTR32 I used Penrite, but found that Motul synthetic oil was a bit cheaper and way better. Oil px is good esp on start up and engine seems to be a little quieter esp when cold.

Best to get the viscosity that nissan recommend because the RB engine are built to close tolerances and I wouldn't want to put in something too thin or too thick.

  • 6 months later...

i use vegetable oil (crisco) not! hehehe

im still deciding on which oil is best the above responses are excellent in muy oil hunting process.

have tried Mobile 1 synthetic on my old turbor lancer/honda vtec and loves it so much but burnt it so quick.

might try Motul but so expensive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...