Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been running Penrite Racing 10 for almost 2 years now, no complaints

From what I understand, this is a Group 4/5 oil?

Deciding on if I keep using this, or switch to Nulon Full Synthetic 10-40 Hi-Tech, does anyone know what group this falls into, and if its any better than the Penrite Racing 10?

I've been running Penrite Racing 10 for almost 2 years now, no complaints

From what I understand, this is a Group 4/5 oil?

Deciding on if I keep using this, or switch to Nulon Full Synthetic 10-40 Hi-Tech, does anyone know what group this falls into, and if its any better than the Penrite Racing 10?

You would need to shoot Nulon off an email, I would like to know also. Prenrite state clearly in their product information sheets that Racing 10 is synthetic PAO and Ester based.

If you're looking for something a little cheaper, I have been using Penrite HPR DIESEL 5 5W-40 It has a high Zinc content as well as detergent/ cleaners, works well for me.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_fuel_type=3&id_products=7

Edited by Missileman

I drop mine after every trackday. :)

I do scaling factor for track day kays - so any kms done on the track are multiplied by 5. So if i do 100kms at the track, that's equivalent to 500kms of regular driving. At this stage i have no evidence if this is sensible or not...

The reason people drop there oil after a track day is due to the amount of heat the oil sustains when being driven on the track.

Excessive heat on any engine oil reduces its effective life immensely.

If you find yourself in the higher rpms at a track day, you should dump your oil.

Also keep this in mind on the steet. Pending how you drive.

If you want to know for sure. There are places that analyze your engine oil.

The reason people drop there oil after a track day is due to the amount of heat the oil sustains when being driven on the track.

Excessive heat on any engine oil reduces its effective life immensely.

If you find yourself in the higher rpms at a track day, you should dump your oil.

Also keep this in mind on the steet. Pending how you drive.

If you want to know for sure. There are places that analyze your engine oil.

My track oil temp is under control. IIRC Mobil say M1 is ok with respect to degradation at 150 deg C. Agree that oil temp has a very important impact on oil life, as does quality of the oil. So whether you need to dump after a track day depends on those and other factors. As you say, if you dont test the oil you're just guessing, but thats fine too.

I've been doing oil testing on the Stagea, and will do on the GTR next time.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys just here for some advice:

I have read through the first few pages and I have a slight understanding but in my 33 it previously had some cold idle issues and the oil pressure was hitting 8 when driving... So I decided to change the oil and after asking around I decided to go with penrite 15w-60, though when I started it it seemed to have the same idle issue.. (Had it on for 2 minutes before I stopped as I was worried about the sump plug, which the head of the bolt snapped off...)

Any ideas? Using this car as my daily/track car!

Also like in the hills of Adelaide so it gets pretty cold here

Edited by Polishn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...