Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah that's it, Liqui-Moly, looks like a good product, its nice and light, the engine feels more responsive so will see how it goes.

Did you have a 10W-40 in there before or something heavier? Generally lighter oils should make a tiny bit more power and be a tiny bit more fuel efficient.

yeah I had some Castrol edge 10-60w, it has a bad lifter problem so I tried many flushes and oil changes and still there so ill have to replace them,

Also I might add, if anyones using flushes just be careful, cause after using 2 engine flushes, it seems the engine has picked up some noises, more noticeable is piston slap, probably cleaned carbon from the top of the pistons :(

Don't judge an oil by its colour. You can't draw any conclusions from colour. For example. oil that looks black after use may just be doing a good job of cleaning the motor's insides.

Agree with caveats. New oil colour doesn't mean anything you're just looking at the colouring they added in the factory in many cases (additive mix and stuff).

Old oil colour is an indicator of how many particulates the oil has managed to trap. In this situation dark brown oil is a good thing, because the oil has taken the contaminants and trapped them in suspension. If an oil is really black then your change interval is too long or you have switched to an oil with more detergents in it and it has dissolved deposits that your last oil was inadequate in clearing away. Honey coloured oil means it is not doing its job well, assuming you are burning petrol. LPG/E85 doesn't produce any soot so oil will still look honey coloured even when it has reached the end of its service life. This is bad because the oil is not lubricating properly even though it looks new.

You can draw conclusions from colour of used oil but only if you know what colour it started out, how long it's been in the engine and what fuel the engine has been burning. Without that information it's useless.

that's blows my thinking away, I used to use Mobil 1 0-40w, $100/bottle, that was clear going in and only went to a honey colour after 5000k's on 98,

It did change colour after one dyno session, must of been a long session cause it was very dark colour that time, maybe the car just doesn't get flogged enough for it to change colour

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys. I've been using HPR 10 in my daily RB25DET and would like to replace it this time around with probably a Mobile 1 5-50, keen to see how a slightly more premium oil goes. My engine's just about to tick over 200,000km, would it be wise to stick to 10w or can I go for a 5w or even 0w without sacrificing protection? I've been trying to learn from people's experiences on different oil weights in higher k's engines, but info is really mixed overall. I've seen comments saying don't touch lower viscosities if your engine has high k's, and other people saying it's fine. So, what's the go?

That M1 is 17.5 at 100DegC and the Penrite is 19.6 at 100DegC, so yeah the Mobil is a bit thinner. Pretty unlikely you'll feel it with the butt dyno, but if the oils are around the same price, sure, give it a go.

If the engine still runs well, has good oil pressure and doesn't consume oil i'd try a 40 and see how it goes. Keep an eye on the dipstick to see if it starts using. Often the first fill after you change oils is not a good indicator and you should try at least two fills to see how it settles down.

FWIW I run Mobil 1 0W-40 in my cars, but might switch to Nulon to support the local product. Nulon 10W-40 is one of the thicker 40s, so you could try that.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

="booba32" post="7519451" timestamp="1429511959"]

Just after some advice, i have a 94 r32 gtr as my daily atm, with roughly 100,000kms

What oil do you recommend and what grade should i be leaning towards? cheers.

This whole thread and you still have no idea?

Just after some advice, i have a 94 r32 gtr as my daily atm, with roughly 100,000kms

What oil do you recommend and what grade should i be leaning towards? cheers.

After 158 pages of discussion the jury is out. The best course of action is to just not drive your skyline until further discussion can figure out what oil is best to use!

  • Like 1

I made the switch to liquimoly 10w40 super about 1500kms ago and the oil is already BLACK as. Anyone using the liquimoly stuff and does this mean I should flush it out (prev oil was just a shell semi synth, so thinking the liquimoly is cleaning much better).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
×
×
  • Create New...