Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think Castrol Syntrax is another good alternative for the diff.

Nulon Engine Oil Flush. What are you thoughts on this guys? Worthwhile? Waste of time? Just plain dodgy?

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productId=eof

I believe Martini make a similar product, but damned if i can find the name of it...

I am about to do my first oil change and I thought I would just spend the money (car is about to spend a session on the dyno getting tuned) and get some Motul 300V. Trouble is it only comes in a 4L bottle - is this enough to do a full oil change in an RB25DET Neo? How much oil do they take?

Also I will need a new filter, are the generic Ryco etc. good enough to use? Do Repco and similar stores stock the suitable oil filters for RB25DET's?

Any help is greatly appreciated as I am hoping to pick up the bits tommorrow! :wave:

i can answer this was some first hand experience!

Motul 300V slightly better than Mobil 1 0w40

none-the-less, Mobil 1 is still a very good oil. 0w40 is not too thin, well unless if you have a very old car, or perhaps doing some serious track work. But street driven, Mobil 1 is more than fine ;)

I just did my R34 on saturday, Mobil 1 0w40 (would have gone Motul 300V, but i was doing a rather major service, so next time) and it took 5 quarts. 1 quart = 950ml, roughly. So it took 4.75Litres.

Sorry, but you're going to have to buy another 1L bottle. 5L is about perfect. This was with an oil filter change as well.

I was told to stay clear of Ryco. I used OEM filters on saturday (fuel/air/oil). From Nissan, it was about $11 or $16, can't remember which, but it was cheap. Any dealer will have it in stock as it's not a special "For R34's only" item.

Hope that helps!

Oh, car is running slightly smoother, i'm pretty sure it's quieter as well. The lifters on RB's are usually fairly noisy, but the tapety noise of the lifters has reduced a little. My car seems to be in very good nick the further my mate and i look at it (he's a mechanic). So i don't think i have significant gains to make in terms of 'running better' with a good service. But the Mobil 1 has "smoothed" out the engine somewhat, and has made it quieter as well.

cheers,

daniel

i can answer this was some first hand experience!

Motul 300V slightly better than Mobil 1 0w40

none-the-less, Mobil 1 is still a very good oil. 0w40 is not too thin, well unless if you have a very old car, or perhaps doing some serious track work. But street driven, Mobil 1 is more than fine :nyaanyaa:

I just did my R34 on saturday, Mobil 1 0w40 (would have gone Motul 300V, but i was doing a rather major service, so next time) and it took 5 quarts. 1 quart = 950ml, roughly. So it took 4.75Litres.

Sorry, but you're going to have to buy another 1L bottle. 5L is about perfect. This was with an oil filter change as well.

I was told to stay clear of Ryco. I used OEM filters on saturday (fuel/air/oil). From Nissan, it was about $11 or $16, can't remember which, but it was cheap. Any dealer will have it in stock as it's not a special "For R34's only" item.

Hope that helps!

Oh, car is running slightly smoother, i'm pretty sure it's quieter as well. The lifters on RB's are usually fairly noisy, but the tapety noise of the lifters has reduced a little. My car seems to be in very good nick the further my mate and i look at it (he's a mechanic). So i don't think i have significant gains to make in terms of 'running better' with a good service. But the Mobil 1 has "smoothed" out the engine somewhat, and has made it quieter as well.

cheers,

daniel

Thanks for that. I think it is so stupid they sell the 300V oil in 4L containers. I know it's probably to make you buy 2 but it's probably just going to make me choose something else instead. Are you sure you can buy 1L bottles of 300V as well?

i just assumed you could :nyaanyaa: obviously you can't then.

So looks like it's 6L's for you, and just buy a 4L next time and then start the cycle again, 6L, then 4L, etc :nyaanyaa:

I bought 6 quarts of Mobil 1, but have 1 unopened bottle left over, and some of my Redline oils are left over as well.

So yeah, go 6 this time, and just keep the extra for your next service. 5000km's shouldn't take too long. The oil will keep :laugh:

cheers,

daniel

EDIT: there are some real oil gurus in this thread, so hopefully i haven't sent you down the wrong path. But i looked into this a fair bit before my service, and i hope i'm passing on knowledge unblemished as it was given to me :laugh:

i just assumed you could :laugh: obviously you can't then.

So looks like it's 6L's for you, and just buy a 4L next time and then start the cycle again, 6L, then 4L, etc :)

I bought 6 quarts of Mobil 1, but have 1 unopened bottle left over, and some of my Redline oils are left over as well.

So yeah, go 6 this time, and just keep the extra for your next service. 5000km's shouldn't take too long. The oil will keep :D

cheers,

daniel

EDIT: there are some real oil gurus in this thread, so hopefully i haven't sent you down the wrong path. But i looked into this a fair bit before my service, and i hope i'm passing on knowledge unblemished as it was given to me :)

Thanks for that. I actually ended up buying 5L of Motul 8100 5W40 100% synth instead. Will do the oil change today :)

  • 1 month later...
When i get into the monthly supersprints i will start using mineral oil. penzol or something!

i've been recommended by a well expreienced race engine builder

Don't be silly.

The only reason people occasionally recommend mineral oil is that for reasons partly unknown some synthetic oils do not agree with old fashioned push rod engines. Specifically the cams & cam followers suffer. It is sometimes blamed on the amount of friction modifiers in the synthetics & the large surface areas of the valve train components in push rod V8's.

Old fashioned motors are a world away from your RB whatever. Use a good quality synthetic oil of appropriate viscosity & overfill it if you are going to the track.

When i get into the monthly supersprints i will start using mineral oil. penzol or something!

i've been recommended by a well expreienced race engine builder

lol, andrew, that is one of the funniest things I've read in a while!

Motul Chrono 300V, or the next one up if you are worried.

as for the monthly sprints are you running this sunday at EC? I will be there.

Thanks for that. I actually ended up buying 5L of Motul 8100 5W40 100% synth instead. Will do the oil change today :D

the motul 8100 is ok, but it's not a full synthetic ester oil like the 300V is.

I know bugger all about anything, but I know the chrono 300V is damn good oil. for the money I think it's well worth it. and yeah, you can buy a 4L and a 2l. then next time you just need a single 4l. :)

lol, andrew, that is one of the funniest things I've read in a while!

Motul Chrono 300V, or the next one up if you are worried.

as for the monthly sprints are you running this sunday at EC? I will be there.

Actually Baron I have had people knock back offers of a top up of Mobil 1 for their old school (in this case Alfa) motor because they were too scared to put a synthetic oil in it. Believe it or not....

yeah, but he's not driving an alfa! he's using RB26 power. which to me means running a mineral oil is nuts.

depends on the car though, you are right. but we are only talking about one type of car here. ftr we use synthetic in our alfa, but it does have a built motor in it.

stay away from castrol edge and penrite syn 5..... turns to water in rb's.

my 2c's :whistling:

oh yeah pay no attention to the oil test done in street commodores a few months back which royal purplue won.... it was a crock of shite, they used grease testing rigs to test oils... morons.

Edited by URAS

I just had the Motul 300V chrono put in. Engine definately feels smoother. Didn't do much to quieten the tapping sounds though.

What I was most impressed with though was the Red Line light weight Shock Proof gear oil. I would recommend this to anyone with worn syncros and/or gear box notchiness. Think twice before getting a reco box and try this stuff. It's gold! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...